tune-up question! help
 

Getting the the old rotor off I think I turned the distributor shaft a bit..can this cause any issues? put it back to where I estimated it was but I do not want to run much if any chance I could do any damage. Seems to start ans run OK. thanks !

I don't think you can turn that shaft that way. You think you turned it when removing the rotor? I don't see how that would happen. You should be fine!

maybe I did not turn it - sure seemed like it but could have been just the rotor turning since the set-screw was already removed so I don't know. What if I did turn the shaft a bit? Can it affect timing or am I thinking old cars again? seemed to start/run OK

You should be fine.

I would say that it is all but impossible to move the shaft with the rotor unless your timing belt was broken, and even then the resistance introduced to the camshaft by the valve springs would be enough to keep you from moving it without considerable force.

OK guys thanks much - I'll run it tomorrow when things dry out around here. I've been known to obsess over minor issues with these cars... just as their creators intended!

Make sure that the connector piece #26 between the rotor and cam is tight (set-screw #27). Otherwise your rotor will be aimed somewhere incorrectly when the spark is sent.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...n.gif~original

that makes two of us....er.....thousands of us.

I don't believe it would make a bit of difference if the shaft actually did turn (not likely for the above reasons) because as long as you line the rotor back up with the set screw, you are in time.....assuming all the plug wires are in the prpoer slots, it should run good.

The second set-screw on the connector piece is important too. Without it, your rotor can be off by 90-degrees and miss the spark completely.

hey thanks all- I'm a visual/graphic type as all the words don't do as much for me as a drawing/diagram. There is a word for that but (of course) it escapes me. Was definitely new distributor cap and rotor that was sorely needed and made huge difference in performance - can wind it out to wherever now while before it felt like it would reach 2500-3000 and would be straining to push farther if that makes any sense. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1448839885.jpg

ps: covered old workbench top with some leftover Pergo and I like it:D.

Don't worry
 

The rotor is oriented on the shaft by the set screw so you can turn the camshaft (engine) any which way you want as much as you want. When you reinstall the rotor it will be in proper orientation by the set screw. The timing is handled by the computer.

Old cars (such as my long gone '62 356B) had the distributor clamped down to the engine block and one would adjust the timing by loosening the clamp bolt and rotate the whole distributor a few degrees or fraction of a degree then tighten the clamp. One would advance the spark as much as possible until the engine would "ping" under load then back it off a bit. That was a more accurate tune to the octane of the gasoline than a timing light which would give one a conservative "generic" ignition timing. However the "ping" method would take more time since you would have to drive it looking for a hill to climb or such to put a load on the engine to see if you would get detonation (knocking). I used to carry a wrench (actually a whole toolbox) and if the car would ping just loosen the distributor clamp and goose the distributor in the retard direction a degree or so. Modern cars have a computer and a knock-sensor.