Rod Bearings

[akron]

I have the engine on the stand and have removed the front belts, gears, oil pump, etc. Bottom end exposed to do bearings.
Stupid move, I went to turn the crank and ever so slightly tapped a valve because the belts are off. Yes, I know. This is what happens when life keeps you away from the project! But, I think I am okay as I was turning very slowly and with minimal pressure. Backed off to where I was when I realized what I had done.
First question. Do we think I am okay as I really didn't want to pop the head off?
Second question. Would it be best to do the front end seals and such and put the belt in place before doing the bearings so I can rotate the crank after each bearing replacement to test for binding?

[v2rocket_aka944]

You'd have to be hand-standing on the wrench to bend a valve "by hand".
I wouldn't worry about it,

No need to put the belt on to do bearings, you should be able to spin the crank around enough to check with the cam at TDC. If any contact, just move the cam out of the way and keep spinning...just make sure it's all lined up again when they belt does go on eventually.

[dgcantrell]

I agree, it would take at least spinning the engine over with the starter to bend any valves. You should be fine.

[Techno Duck]

Probably would be easiest to replace the seals and put the belt back on first so you can spin the crank without thought. Otherwise you will have to spin the crank and cam a little at a time. Usually i do this job with the cam tower off already.. . Consider replacing the gasket while the engine is out...while your in there of course. .

[akron]

Thanks guys. Off to the races!

[akron]

Ugh! It appears that someone has previously had the crank ground? I ordered the standard size bearings from Pelican and they are about .26 mm thinner than the old bearings. So now I have to get oversized bearings? Is that what I am looking at?
When I went to use plastigage on the #1 rod, I noticed at the rod did not seem to seat firmly on the crank. Loose. Thats when I realized that the crank was not the standard size. Getting tired of previous owners' shenanigans!

[dgcantrell]

I think they only made 2 oversized flavors. .25mm and .50mm. So I'd say the .25 are the ones you need.

And.... Apparently they are made of gold or something. I just did some Googling and you're looking at least $65 per rod... ouch!!! Do some shopping around.

[Techno Duck]

Measure the journals on the crank with a micometer to see what they were cut to. If it really was cut, it might be cheaper to find another crankshaft.