Replace rear rusty brake lines from the Tee
 

I need to replace all the rear brake lines from the Tee including the Tee. I wonder if they can be replaced without dropping the rear axle. I am planning to build my own custom hard lines, and only replace the rubber lines with new ones. I am hoping to route the custom lines behind the axle. I wonder if anybody here has got any experience in doing this job in this way.

I recently replaced the passenger side rear hardline from the T to the new SS hose that I installed. 11mm, 14mm, and 17mm wrenches is are needed. I think the hard line I used was the bubble flare, 3/8'' by 20'' line that i got from the local auto parts store. I took the connection at the brake line hose off first, then the connection at the bottom of the T off. Was a little bit hard to get out, but the pipe is pliable. Hard the old line out, and I used a campbells soup can and the 17/19 socket from the tool bag to round out the pipe where need to almost match the old pipe. I then put the pipe in place, and had to Finnish bending the pipe ever so slightly and CAREFULLY so i could get them to connect to the bottom of the T, then i connected to the SS brake hose. Did the hose connection 2nd because you can move the hose a little bit to make a connection with the hard line. I didn't do the drivers side, sorry. But, to answer your question, I did not take the rear axel, or hub off, but did take the wheel off. Im 5'8'' 130 with tiny hands, at some points it was tight, but doable for me.

I am planning to build my own lines, but not sure if I can do bubble flare as I just ordered a brake line building kit with pipes and flaring tool. So do you recommend I get some ready made lines and bend them accordingly to fit if they are a bit too long.

You could go either way. I broke my line while replacing my brake hose, so I just went to the local store and bought what size was the closest, the the original line was around 20", the line I bout was 22", but fit fine, not too long and out of place. But I think that these cars do need bubble flares that way they will seat well (like the factory intended). I think if you used a single flare they might leak, I think I read that somewhere on here or another forum. I would buy the lines already made, and just find the closest length.

I also am re-doing the brake lines on my 924. I have been getting the premade brake lines from the parts store. They are bubble flare lines with metric fittings. Available in 8,12,20,30,40,51, and 60". The parts store should also have unions for joining 2 pieces together.

I have had very good luck with using nickle/copper replacement lines on other cars, it is very easy to work with and with the simple flaring tool kit you can almost always get a good flare (double or bubble). While unions will work if you do not plan to replace the complete run, if at all possible you should replace the whole run - especially if you are using steel lines, the flare nuts at the union create a good spot for moisture to collect and cause rust issues in the future.

It sounds like you would like to maintain the original layout of the rear brake lines complete with the torque tube hump hugging section. I found that this was not going to be possible with removing more stuff than I cared too. Naturally I tried to find flexible hosing that I could route as close to the original layout as possible but this didn't pan out either. I did, however, find new appreciation for planning the build of a car and for buying the pieces that come already bent. It also made me think that my willingness to get as close to the original layout as possible but knowing it wouldn't be exactly as it were is probably what sets me apart from the irina225661s (youtube) of the world. I can offer this bit of wisdom, however, and that's to buy lots of extra lines and what ever you estimate the length to be it's probably short.

I am not keen in doing so if alternative is safe and legal. I assume routing the brake line along the axle will be much easier to do then trying to route the line behind it without lowering the axle. But is this legal? If so I rather do it that way.

It does beg the question, doesn't it...why was such an effort made to place the line where it is? Is this so you'll take the car back to the dealer?

It made me think of stringing electrical wire: the stuff spans open spaces but is fastened to the joists, studs, etc, where possible to keep it from moving. I also thought about where the line floats freely in space and it does for some distance such as where it comes from the master cylinder and travels to the T at the back. It's subject to vibrations, torque and more. Wait, I know. If you don't hug the unibody something will surely catch it and tear it out. You know, just like where this always happens--right at the rear calipers. :)

What I did was make a lovely bend job of it and let it sit in mid air. And that was a long time ago.

Here's what mine turned out to look like:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1451954352.jpg

:)

Wondering what happens when you must remove the rear sway bar?

Len

:)

Decided to drop the rear axle as I have no luck in loosening any of the brake lines at the Tee. By drooping the axle I should have better access to the lines and hopefully I can remove them. I also should be able to replace the lines so that the original layout is kept closer to original. Hope that dropping the axle until it rests on the exhaust pipe and the two brake flexible lines will be sufficient and no further dismantling to be necessary. I have removed the holding bolts, but have not dared yet to attempt to lower it yet. This will be a job for next weekend.

Have not done this work yet, as I cannot loose any of the brake joints at the T even if I lower the axle. My question is: Is it too risky to actually cut the line before the T and then use a union and a small extension line to new T after removing the rusty lines? I will have to flare the original line so can add a union. Is this doable on the original lines that are not rusty?

Don't know about it being risky, but with more unions you increase the possibility of rust later. Always seems that rust forms quicker where there is a union - probably due to the fact that you disturb any factory coating on the line. What kind of line are you going to use for the replacement? As I stated in my post above I would use nickle copper - it is easy to work with. Question is can you pass an MOT with nickle copper or do you have to use steel?

I've just replaced all my brake lines on my '86 944 Turbo.
Front bulkhead to rear tee 260cm, right line from tee to rubber hose 50cm, left line from tee 108cm, and the 2 last lines from rubber hose to caliper are 70-70cm.
I was able to replace all without lowering the torsion tube.

How much is are your time and safety worth? All these parts are available new, even the longer ones.