Adjust cluch cable?

AJM944 · 12-11-2002, 05:18 PM

Just noticed that every time I start my car (with the clutch petal depressed) the car still wants to creep forward, much like the clutch is still engaged to the flywheel.
In order to take it out of gear, I have to pull hard! And yank it out of gear! "this cant be good" ... words like CLUCH, PREASURE PLATE, and THROW OUT BEARING come to mind.
Now I have replaced a clutch on a Ford F-250 but something tells me this may be a little different.
Oh, and even in neutral... the car still wants to creep ever so slightly forward. She also grinds when going into Reverse.

I'm thinking the clutch should be replaced, but could I try adjusting the cable first? And if that answer is YES. How????

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Sure. Bet that cable has stretched so much the bowden tube is shot.

Wait!

944's don't have clutch cables! It's all hydraulic!

OK.

Now, check the fluid level in the brake reservoir as this also feeds the clutch master cylinder through the blue hose coming out the lower side.

Also check the hose for leaking.

There is some adjustment to the clutch linkage between the pedal and the clutch cylinder but usually when this starts to happen it's time to replace both of the cylinders.

PS: How did the spoiler replacement go?

AJM944 · 12-11-2002, 06:06 PM

So my '83 is hydraulic? man, I need a manual!!! Thanks SoCal.

The Spoiler replacement went perfect! Its more durable than the original. She is looking better and better each time I work on her. now i'm saving up for a nice paint job!

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Really don't need a manual. The whole thing is rather like a linkage or cable system but uses the brake fluid.

Check the brake reservoir first to see if it's low. If it's lower than the blue hose sticking out the side that feeds the clutch system then filling it back up and slowly pumping the clutch can cure 90% of the problem.

Still you need to find out where the leak is below. usually the slave cylinder inside the bell housing. Leaves a small puddle of fluid on the pavement over night. If the main clutch cylinder is leaking you should smell it inside the car.

As to the push rod linkage at the pedal; should only be an 1/8" or so of freeplay before the end of the rod engages the clutch main cylinder piston.

Roastin944 · 12-11-2002, 08:35 PM

Is there a way to adjust where in your clutch your car engages? Mine engages Right at the end, i would like it to engage more like half way and out, any way to do that? Thanks

John

944S Boyeee · 12-12-2002, 07:07 AM

Speaking of "grinding in reverse".....does anyone else find that they grind putting the shifter in reverse?

Mine does that, but only if the car is moving. If the car is not moving - no problem, but if the car is rolling at all, it grinds a bit.

944S Boyeee

Frank B · 12-12-2002, 07:11 AM

I'm leaking at the hose to the Master cylinder.. 944 you should always be completely static when gping into reverse, the synchro for the reverse gear doesn't function the same as 1through 5....

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

Any clutch pedal issues would either be a matter of bleeding the clutch, which rarely needs to happen.

Or you just have a worn out clutch. Which equates to 12 or 13 hours on your back under the car.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by Scott R
Any clutch pedal issues would either be a matter of bleeding the clutch, which rarely needs to happen.

Or you just have a worn out clutch. Which equates to 12 or 13 hours on your back under the car.

I agree. The clutch on the 944's is or it isn't. There is some adjustment with the push rod from the clutch pedal to the main hydraulic cylinder but that's pretty much a set distance or the push rod falls out.

There should be about an 1/8" of free play before the push rod starts pressing on the main clutch cylinder.

AJM944 · 12-12-2002, 12:02 PM

Thank you SoCal.

profssr2017 · 12-12-2002, 12:34 PM

I replaced the clutch in my '84 N/A in the fall of '01 -

You need to remove the transmission and torque tube to get at the bell housing. Also, you need to support the transaxle shafts so you don't damage the seals. Also, you need to get a special 12 point allen head socket to take off the factory bolts (they have a special name, my brain is just failing me now). Also, one of the pins that locates the bellhousing was a real pain to remove - I ended up with a bolt welded to a body puller to get it out. Also, you need to support the engine with a block of wood/rubber under the oil pan. Also, not all bellhousing bolts are the same length - keep in track which hole they come out of - If you get the long one in the top of the bellhousing, the only way to get it out is to take everything apart again (please don't ask how I know this). Also, you need some friends. Also, a good manual. Also, beer for your friends.

Also, I understand that it is far better to get the upgraded clutch disk with springs, rather than the original rubber donut center. When you are moving slowly in gear - do you have a lot of drivetrain slop - that usually indicates that the rubber donut center is disintegrated (like mine did) - These rubber pieces can cause a clutch to drag, sort of like what you are describing.

Reverse is not synchronized - always come to a dead stop before using reverse. I don't think that any vehicle come with a syncronized reverse.

If you don't want to spend multiple hours on your back replacing the clutch, a GOOD independent shop charges up to 18 hours to do a clutch replacement.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

I'm coming to the contusion that taking the engine out is a better way of getting at the clutch.

You have to drop the cross member down just a bit to get a clear shot at the bolts to the bell housing. Yes you leave the bell housing and clutch stuff in place. Only have to pull the engine about 2 inches forward to clear the bell housing and the end of the drive shaft. The clutch disk and all stays with the bell housing in the car!

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

SoCal, can you get the engine far enough forward without pulling it out to get into the bellhousing, and remove the clutch bolts and flywheel? Or do you need to pull it all of the way out?

My question being that if you could just move it forward a few inches by rolling the crane forward, then you would not have to disconnect the wiring harness or anythign else.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Good question!

May be able to but then again...

You may be able to release the TO bearing from the fork and get the pressure plate out a gap between the engine and the bell housing.

To get the engine out or to move forward:

You have to disconnect the exhaust and just unplug the wiring harness.

Also have to disconnect the steering link to let the cross member drop down a bit. But you will have to unbolt the a-arms which would throw the alignment off.

You have to remove the starter to get to the nine bolts on the flywheel for the pressure plate. Undo these a little at a time so as to not warp the pressure plate (if you plan on reusing it).

On the front of the engine you may have to remove the power steering pulley to get the engine out. But this may be OK if you just want to slide the engine forward.

All things considered it just may be worth a try to just slide the engine forward.

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

The reason I ask is that we used to have a terrible time changing clutches on older Saabs at one of the shops I wrenched at.

This was a solution that we used on those to cut some hours out. And since I have a leaky rear main I need to do this job anyway.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Would like to have a shot at just sliding the engine forward to see if there is enough access.

Since you need to reseal the flywheel -- a good idea when doing a clutch -- I would pull the engine. You could also get to any problem areas on the back side such as the rear cam cover. Then there is the oil pan.

Two of the big problems is removing the power steering pulley -- breaker bar and four foot pipe time -- and the socket heads for the sensor bracket.

Think that the A/C and the alternator and the exhaust can be let on the engine. You will have to drop the power steering pump.

Be sure to get the variable angle attachment for the hoist to be able to rock and roll the engine to put it back in.

Scott R · Scott R's Garage

I have an angle slide for my hoist. Learned that I needed one on my 85.5 when its engine went out.

When I pulled the engine out of my 85 I just let the A/C compressor and power steering pump hang below. when I pulled it.

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

A/C compressor -- keep forgetting mine has not been connected for quite a few years.