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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 1,119
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Water Pump Bolt sealant
Ready to install my new water pump... Iam, now curious of what thread sealant to use...as I was pulling the bolts they had a tanish puddy like substance on them..???
Plus should I use anti seize on all cam shafts, before I install all the gear sets....Thanks Guys......Frank |
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That Guy
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Personally, i only use blue Loctite on the nuts for the studs. The bolts i do not use anything. The manual says Loctite 270 on everything but in the interest of not breaking all the bolts / studs next time the pump comes off i do it my way.
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Jon 1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L 2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3 Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1 |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 1,119
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makes cents to me...do ya use any anti seize on the roller shafts..???
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Back from Beyond
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 2,697
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At the risk of drawing down the abuse of fellow Pelicanites, I have to say I use anti-seize on all the fasteners and no sealant on the gasket (or anywhere else on the water pump, for that matter).
The pumps don't fall off my cars, they don't leak, and I don't break studs or bolts removing pumps to change them. YMMV. Techno Duck is right about the manual specifying Loctite 270, but gluing bolts that'll eventually be glued by corrosion seems to me a recipe for heartache.
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'88 944 Auto - project, kinda '87 944 Auto - died saving my wife '84 944 5SP - crushed under shop roof during snow storm All others GONE! |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 41
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Thanks for the confidence booster. Ive been doing the same. Antiseize on everything. Im about to embark on my first 944 water pump replacement and will choose the same route. I just replaced the reference sensors and noticed thread locker on the bolts, I slathered the bolts in antiseize and coated the orings in dielectric grease. Much rather have an easier time removing this stuff down the road.
Seeing corrosion on steel bolts in aluminum cases is common when disassembling stuff on engines from the factory. Im specifically thinking about timing belts on a mitsu montero. I used copper (an now aluminum) antiseize on all bolts. Ever since doing that, corrosion is gone. Ive done the same on spark plugs on my F150, never had plugs pop out due to thin threads corroding (epidemic on the triton 4.6L engines). Quote:
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Stow, MA
Posts: 574
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Both thread locker and anti-seize will do a lot to inhibit corrosion. So I think you could use either. I'd go with anti-seize, myself. Good luck with the project!
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Kevin Catellus Engineering catelluseng@gmail.com http://www.catellusengineering.com https://www.facebook.com/catelluseng/ |
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Registered
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I also use anti-seize on all the bolts that go into the block. A very very thin layer of RTV on the gaskets and a little on the washers and studs when putting the nuts on, torquing immediately as not to allow the curing of the RTV to interfere with getting a proper torque. Never had an issue. The RTV on the studs and washers prevent rust issues with the studs for me.
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 41
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What do you guys do if the sealing surface was gouged? I've used jb weld in past to fill gouges.
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Registered
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It depends on how deep the gouge is. RTV will seal most short of someone using a grinder on the surfaces. LOL 15PSI and the gasket surface area is pretty wide. JB Weld would be a good choice to fill and smooth any questionable gouges.
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