Early 944 rear stub axle and CV joint issue
 

I am in the process of replacing my rear wheel bearings on my '83 944, but I can't seem to get the stub axle and CV joint attached.

I torqued down the castle nut with the hub attached to act as a puller to pull the stub axle into the arm. The number of visible threads matches the opposite axle, but it doesn't look like I have enough room to get the CV joint attached. See attached pictures.

Any ideas? Could I have assembled something incorrectly/backwards?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485383667.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485383667.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1485383667.JPG

Sorry, pictures might be upside down.

This particular corner of the car was in an accident by one of the previous owners. During the process of replacing the bearings, I've found the following issues:

• Castle nut was loose (but luckily the cotter pin was holding it on… barely).
• The inner stub axle spacer was missing, causing the whole axle to have about 1/4" of play.
• A red painted caliper (all others are factory black). This is just an annoyance…

I'm definitely questioning any repair work done in this area.

Did you reassemble the cv joints? If you assemble them incorrectly they will be too long and inflexible to install. Otherwise I drop mine to around 7/8 o'clock (looking at the back of the stub axle for the drivers side, 4/5 o'clock passenger side) and it will drop in.

No, I did not reassemble the CV joints, but it could very well be assembled incorrectly. I'll try your method first and reassemble the joints if it doesn't work.

Thanks for the help :)

Lean on the gearbox. It's mounted in rubber, should move enough.

Oh, and you should service those CVs in any event, they look a bit dry.

Good to know. This is the first time I'm doing servicing like this, so I appreciate the advice. The procedure on Clark's looks straightforward enough. I will give it a try!

I was originally just replacing the brake disk and pads. I guess that's just how things go. :D

Fresh CV bolts, dry threads and a torque wrench... the "right way"

If they werent assembled correctly they wouldnt have been able to be installed, so you dont have to worry about that. I'd buy the boot kit (~$45 per side I think), clean and regrease them- that grease looks like its entrained some moisture.

I had some time today to take apart the CV joints. Had a hard time getting one of them off the shaft, but a steel pipe, a big brass punch, and a hammer eventually sped up the process.

The spider on the transmission-side's joint has multiple areas with pitting, so I will be purchasing at least one new CV joint. And from the suggestions here, new boots, bolts, and grease for all joints as well! I will know if any additional new joints are necessary once I take apart the passenger's side.

Is replacing one joint okay without replacing any of the others? Or should they be done in pairs/axles?

I'd just replace the ones with wear/damage.