So, how does a hatch work again?
 

I know this is a ridiculous question, but do you have to do anything to lock the hatch? To open it, I either use the key or the button by the steering wheel and then simply pull it up. When slamming it shut, it "magically" used to stay locked (i.e., closed). Now lately no amount of slamming is keeping it closed.

What I found helps is if I manually rotate the mechanism (see attached pic), then the hatch stays closed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486177133.jpg

Seems weird that there isn't a need to turn the key the other way to lock the hatch.

Guess I should take as much apart and try to lube it.

Typically, you have to adjust the hatch pins out. If they're rusted solid, you need to replace them.

Try lubing with silicone spray first, before adjusting anything.

Don't use a petroleum based lube, as it will tend to stiffen when cold and attract dirt.

You can clean the latching mechanism first with something like carb cleaner or MAF cleaner, something that won't leave a residue, and then lube it. When using the button up front, the hatch should spring up on its own. If not, the struts might be tired and need replacing and/or the spring mechanism that clamps onto the pins needs to be lubed. Best to remove those black "boxes" (the ones that the cables attach to) and give them a good cleaning on a bench.

Actually, the hatch should only pop up about an inch with proper struts. If the hatch lifts all the way by itself, the struts are too strong and will deform the aluminum frame, resulting in the glass no longer being completely sealed to the frame.

For my personal cars, I have old struts and a stick to keep the hatch up when I need it. A lot cheaper than replacing the hatch (Very few have been able to reseal the hatch with good results.)

Thanks everyone. But just to be sure I understand, there is no need "lock" the hatch, just slam it shut?

Yes, with a little less emphasis on "slam"...

If the latches are freely working, it should not be required to "slam" it closed. Just firmly push it down until it is fully seated. I lift on both sides a little to make sure it's latched. Other than that, that's all there is to it. As the others have mentioned, worn lift shocks make it necessary to lift the hatch at the same time as manually disengaging the latches with the key (or someone pressing the button and another lifting the hatch at the same time). My glass has started to separate from the frame at the forward edge so the pins are a little out of alignment and will not allow it to spring open when pushing the release button even with new lift shocks.

Interesting. I replaced my struts with the same kind that were on there, apparently OEM according to the website. How do you know how "strong" the struts are before you buy them? Ah well, in a couple of years the strut pressure will likely decrease!

The ones I bought to replace the original ones on mine are 10 years old now. Still going strong. I can't remember where I got them from. They aren't OEM though.

Mine stopped working a week after I bought it, oh well, maybe one day.....

The other thing that can prevent a hatch from locking are the latch mechanisms themselves - it would seem 30 years of slamming the pins into the receivers (the jaws of the lock) wear them down.

A couple times even with new pins I couldn't get my hatches locked, so I got new (used) locking mechanisms and they worked great. The difference in travel from the pairs was quite a bit - maybe a 1/4", and that was enough to do it.

I would love to see a custom hatch.:cool:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1486623603.jpgJust hatch it baby!:D:cool:

If the nuts that hold the receiver/latches are too tight the latch "claws" won't move properly.

V2 is right.. If you tighten the nuts that hold the latches to the body too tight, it squeezes the assembly and prevents the catches from moving freely. I found that out the first time I ever took mine apart to clean and re-lube. Now I run the nuts up to where they are just barely hand tight manually actuating the lever on the assembly making sure the catches move.