Power Steering Rack - Rebuild or Replace?
 

Hi all,

The power steering rack on my 1986 944 n/a has seen better days. It's time to either rebuild it using the Reenbay seal kit or replace it with a re-manufactured unit.

The re-manufactured units have mixed reviews online and I'm curious as to whether anyone on this forum has an opinion on the best way to proceed.

BTW, I also plan to rebuild the pump (Reenbay kit again) and replace all failing hoses as well as install an in-line filter.

Your thoughts?

DIY rebuild is a safe bet/reliable fix.

Lifetime warranty at Auto zone.

If you are half decent at diy then rebuild it, it's not that difficult and you'll know it's been done correctly. A lifetime warranty from AutoZone is useless if you have to remove it again soon to put in a replacement under warranty and then pay for another alignment.

To avoid an alignment, count the number of turns to remove the tie rod ends and write the number down and reinstall the tierod the same number of turns.

...or just mark it with paint.. .:)

...or better yet, get some jam nuts on the tie rod to fix the "thread stop" for the tie rod ends.

All good but my main point is that the biggest hassle is the actual time and effort it takes to remove and replace a rack that has failed under warranty. That's why I would rather diy and know it's been done well rather than buy one from Autozone with a warranty and maybe have to repeat the job.

I recently rebuilt my rack. Not that hard. Seal kits don't cost that much. The power steering lines are a different story.

Power Steering Rack
 

Good morning!

You guys have confirmed my inclination to rebuild the rack and the pump. I agree that if one wants it done right one should DIY.

A cursory look at the hoses indicates seepage at the reservoir connections. Don't know if any of the hoses are faulty at this time, we'll see.

Hey, another quick question. What's the best way to disconnect the steering shaft from the rack? I've read about horror stories on the difficulties of separating the shaft coupler from the rack pinion. There was a comment from one guy who suggested it would be easier to disconnect the shaft at the firewall connection. What do you guys think?

BTW, thanks for your great suggestions.

Time to go manual and get rid of the woman's power steering.
I hope to have a cheaper new manual rack replacement sussed out soon one also upgradeable with quick rack pinnions.Watch this space.

Shaft coupler was a bear. Soak with penetrating oil. I ground up a cold chisel and drove it down into the split on the collar to open it up. Then a whole lot of prying and beating, more than I was comfortable with but I figured if I went too far I could get a rebuilt unit. Even tried a little heat from a heat gun. Finally it let go.
Take lots of pictures, there are a lot of parts that have to go in properly.
Flush everything real well when done. Clean all the corrosion off the coupler and it will slide back on without any problem.
I fixed all my leaks but two years later the power steering only worked going right so this winter I sent it to Jorgen Automotive and they did a complete rebuild. They were great to work with and it is working fine so far.

Jon

Be sure to screw the plastic plug into the positioning port at the bottom of the rack as part of the reassembly process...to ensure that the system is properly centered when your steering wheel is on lock - and to allow for equal steering travel in both directions.

...but yeah - I also recommend that you go ahead and rebuild. Its not that difficult or expensive. Just be careful not to ding the smooth surfaces of the inboard shafts as you remove the attached tie rods - I used tape and cloth padding on a vice prior to wrenching these. Also...those bent metal tabs used as a "safety lock" between these shafts and ends? They either will not be there due to previous wrenching or you won't have enough meat left to re-use after you knock them off prior to disassembly. Supplied instructions said if this happens, to NOT use any thread locker, which I did not - but I kind of which I'd at least used some of the blue (removable) compound - would hate to have a tie rod back out at speed! Kind of a quandary, as this connection can be difficult to torque properly without an offset wrench end. But I just check this connection from time to time - and so far so good.

...and yeah - that split shaft coupler is a bear!

Has anyone tried to adapt an electric assist rack?

I would think it's more hassle than it's worth. Our racks are actually very good if maintained correctly, factory didn't touch them when they raced, counts for something. I've owned one of my 1986 cars from new and the original rack first failed after 22 years, and that wasn't the actual rack seals but the hp hose. I rebuilt it with new seals anyway and it's still leak free, that was nearly 10 years ago now.

If you replace the internal seals and external boots, fit new hoses if needed, make sure everything is super clean and use the correct fluid, you should be good for 20 years.

If you get a rebuilt one, double check the tie rods (if it's a long rack); I got mine from Autozone and it came with the wrong inner rods, so getting the toe correct was impossible since they were 2" too short. I just swapped out the rods from my original rack, but it was still pretty annoying to deal with.

Thanks all for your suggestions.

Here's a great video from our friend Jürgen on how to remove & install the PS rack:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJe9Idglnu4