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Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 4
High Beam Issue

Hi everyone.
I've got many answers from these forums but this is first time posting.
The other day the high beam on the left side didn't work so I did the standard of changing the bulb but still nothing. Looked at the fuses and they were still ok as well. However messing around with the stalk I found that if I very carefully pulled it to a certain point it would light up. Does that mean the issue lies with the stalk? I know there are 2 separate fuses for left and right high beam but would the stalk operate each side independently or does it just operate high beam and then later down the line separates to left and right. I don't really want to buy a new stalk if that's not going to be the issue.

1984 944 Square dash model.

Old 05-08-2017, 01:51 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 4,053
the stalk can be finicky - you might need to remove the steering wheel, loosen the stalk a little bit from the column and wiggle it around and wiggle the wire on it and reassemble it (dont overtighten the little screws) to get it correct.
Old 05-08-2017, 08:42 AM
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Patrick
 
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Plymouth MA
Posts: 1,874
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And... If that doesn't cure the issue, check the cable behind the fuse block. The electric circuit running from Fuse #3 (driver's side high beam) through the interior of the block terminates at Connector Socket A, Position 18 (White/Black wire). I've seen several early model fuse blocks crap out on this circuit where the connector pin on the back side becomes loose causing an intermittent open. One easy way to determine if this is the issue is to crawl under the dash, locate the wire and, with the ignition on, have a helper turn on the high beams while you push in said wire (use needle nose pliers). Any flickering will confirm a bad pin. What's unfortunate is that these pins are crimped on metal plates that are sandwiched together and are next to impossible to repair (ask me how I know). Also, there may have been some arcing which will result in a bit of melting to the connector so be very careful during the test (sorry bro but I assume no responsibility).

A more appropriate way (but time consuming) would be to disconnect the battery, carefully remove Connector from Connector Socket A and Fuse #3, then perform a continuity test between the lower fuse connection (silver colored) and Pin #18. See if the pin wiggles a bit; it shouldn't move at all. If it does, the circuit is bad and either find yourself another fuse block or simply bypass the block by soldering a 14 AWG wire from the silver fuse connection point and directly crimp a butt splice (or solder with shrink tubing) to the White/Black wire via an inline fuse holder.

This happened to my 84 and I spent the next three months locating a good fuse block (bought three from different sources prior). Unfortunately, Porsche no longer sells new blocks. I've seen and bought fuse blocks from $25.00 - $65.00. Please remember to confirm correct voltage to the fuse, inspect for corrosion/cable damage at the lamp socket and check out the high beam switch prior to delving into this; it was my last check.

Good luck and please feel free to PM me with any questions.




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1984 944 NA, constant tinkering
1983 "Beastie" - Safari Build

Last edited by pfarah; 05-08-2017 at 05:01 PM..
Old 05-08-2017, 04:59 PM
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