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Tcrate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Michigan
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944 Clutch Fork

So this issue starts with the clutch pedal being soft. I replaced the slave, master and the flex line. bled it until I was blue in the face and pretty sure I got it bled properly. Clutch still does not snap back like before but it will not disengage the clutch. Shifts really hard and the cars starts to move when I force it into gear. Again clutch not disengaging.

A fellow mechanic suggested i had a bent clutch fork. So I have pulled the exhaust and scoped the fork while engaging the pedal. So the fork is spreading at the fork shaft on the upper fork side when I push on the pedal. The lower side stays in place. I attached a video. It is hard to see but towards the end on the release you can see the fork moving back into position.

My hunch at this point is that Fork or something is causing it to spread. I just hate to pull this all apart only for it to be the bleed. Any thoughts?

Thom
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Tom
1987 911 Targa
1987 944 Turbo
1976 911S
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
Old 11-05-2017, 04:21 PM
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Video too large. Here are a couple of snapshots clutch at rest and clutch expanded.


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Tom
1987 911 Targa
1987 944 Turbo
1976 911S
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C

Last edited by Tcrate; 11-05-2017 at 04:56 PM..
Old 11-05-2017, 04:34 PM
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Through the hole (originally covered by a rubber plug), use a prybar to push the visible end of the clutch release fork towards the front of the car. If the clutch fork is cracked or broken, it will be obvious. If the fork is good, look for a bad slave cylinder or master cylinder or bleeding. Try the reverse bleeding method (ising an Plews type oil can.)
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:59 AM
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Stock fork is cast - very unlikely it would be able to flex that much without actually cracking.
Old 11-06-2017, 09:15 AM
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To bleed the clutch hydraulics, you need to jack the rear end of the car enough that the master cylinder goes horizontal and no longer traps air in a pocket that won't move. You also need a positive-pressure bleeder such as what Snap-On or Motive sell. Anything less, sure, could work but experience says otherwise! Good luck.
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Old 11-06-2017, 12:14 PM
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Reverse bleeding method:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0
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Good luck, George Beuselinck
www.944ecology.com
Porsche Deconstructor (tm)
We buy 944s and sell 944 parts (845-379-1944)
We rebuild torque tubes and instrument clusters for 944/968/928
Old 11-06-2017, 03:29 PM
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I have tried bleeding using a motive power bleeder, I tried reverse bleeding but I dont think that was very effective, and I jacked the rear of the vehicle as high as possible on my lift and bled. I also blocked the lever and bled that way. I am getting no air out. I will try pushing the fork without using the pedal and see what happens. The spreading of the forks definitely has me questioning the integrity of that fork.
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1987 911 Targa
1987 944 Turbo
1976 911S
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
Old 11-06-2017, 05:29 PM
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Having just done a clutch job, I'd love to see either video or pictures. What you're describing is a broken fork - plain and simple. If one fork tip is moving separately from the other there is absolutely no question. If you have video, myself or others intimately familiar with this part could tell you in an instant.

Depending on the amount of movement there are other possibilities such as a fork bearing failure, or even a shaft failure. But none of your pictures or videos have been successfully posted.

Doug
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Old 11-06-2017, 08:18 PM
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My video was too large. I will try and take another one and see if I can get it to load. I agree with you though if the fork is spreading it has to be compromised. I was just hoping there was going to be another explanation so I dont have to do ANOTHER clutch job. Just did this clutch about a year ago.

Btw does anyone know what the difference is between an NA fork and a Turbo Fork. I know the part numbers are different but wondering what was different dimensionally. I am looking for a clutch fork if anyone has one to sell.

Thanks. Tom
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1987 911 Targa
1987 944 Turbo
1976 911S
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
Old 11-07-2017, 07:54 PM
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There are some threads on this, it looks like it might be possible to clearance an NA fork to fit a Turbo. I'm not sure a used one is a good value, even if welded up they might get brittle unless the process avoids this (at some cost). They seem to wear unevenly where they contact the TO bearing, and fail back on the curve from the tip:

Clutch Fork Update/Reinforcement

-Joel.
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Old 11-08-2017, 08:59 AM
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I had a cracked fork and NLA. Called 9**online and they had a NA fork modified. It's worked fine for 5 yrs. I believe they said some part of the NA fork had to be machined off.

Sorry PP for mentioning the competition
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Last edited by Ga 951; 11-13-2017 at 07:29 PM.. Reason: apology
Old 11-13-2017, 07:27 PM
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Thanks Joel. Well no need to post a picture as the broken forks shown in your post are exactly where mine broke. Not sure I want to weld one up and risk a failure on another one. Of course buying a used one may not get me much further. I do have a spare but the fork ends are pretty wore down so might just have those welded up and roll the dice.
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Tom
1987 911 Targa
1987 944 Turbo
1976 911S
1973 Mustang Mach 1 351C
Old 11-13-2017, 07:49 PM
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Well, good to have clarity, and being a fellow Michigander its good to have the winter to get it sorted along with the inevitable "while you're in there" stuff...
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Old 11-13-2017, 11:06 PM
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