How do you know if you have an S model
 

I just bought a 1988, 944. How can you tell if it is an S model.

1) it says 944S on the back
2) the tachometer goes up to 6800 rpm before going "red/orange line"
3) the engine looks like this:
http://jimroal.com/cars/944b.jpg

Because it was made in 1988 with sixteen absolutely glorious valves that you now have under your control.

Make the most of it!

At least, until something goes wrong.

Sound like the OP has no business buying one if he/she cannot tell the difference.

Side molding says "Ventilier" on it ?
it has no real power till about 4K rpm?

Hmmm, where did 100forks go? I would think he would be anxious to find out what he has.

Of course, what I'd really like to hear is:

"I just bought a Porsche, how can I tell if it's a 911?"

you know, i used to say and think this too...

but line them up side by side, and a 944S will smoke an 8v 944 from 0 all the way to infinity...

the "lack of power" is relative to the big kick you feel when it comes on cam, at 4k...but it's got more torque and HP at all RPMs than an 8v model.

That’s easy, see if your luggage will fit in the “trunk” like this idiot model posed for a European leather company.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1517025292.jpg

I think my 87S it is the best cruising car I have ever driven. However when I took it to the PCA HPDC, I never got it out of 3rd gear and got dusted on the straights. But it did very well in the corners against the other high priced hardware. I had the fortune of having the head instructor ride with me and coach me on how to drive it through the corners.

Hello Everyone:

I am bringing this thread back-to-life, since I just acquired a 1987 944S and will have lots of questions. Basically, I have never worked on a S car so my first questions will pertain to the differences I noticed with the 16v engine.

I will post pictures soon, but it does look like what was posted above and is in fact Guards Red. (What's with that? Did all 944S cars come from the factory as Guards Red?) LOL

Right now, my first endeavor will be to document all the necessary maintenance items which need to be replaced on the engine itself. I did notice that the PO (previous owner) has not changed out the water pump, so it still has the older version. Seems odd to me since most owner's would have upgraded to the Turbo water pump version. So, you can see my concern is valid that engine components such as: TB, BS belts and all the seals need replacement soon.

Any help and recommendations will be gladly accepted and appreciated, greatly.

SmileWavy

There is an s-car-go joke just waiting to happen in this thread.

Ed,

If they have not been replaced, start with the water pump, belts and all the rollers for the belts. If you are going to do the front engine seals, do them when you have the WP, belts and rollers off.
While you are in there, replace any coolant hoses and flush the system.

Add the drive belts, the oil cooler seals and the power steering pump seals and hoses while you are in there. Easiest accessed when the WP is out.

The 16v models have hydraulic chain tensionor pads that might need attention, too.

Hey, I know what you mean about the S-car-go joke. LOL

Yes, I have all the parts lined-up for the 50k service! Your suggestion regarding the coolant hoses and flushing the system is an excellent idea, especially since I remove them for more room in the engine compartment.

Thanks!SmileWavy

Hey There:

Very good suggestion as well. You are correct that the hydraulic chain tensioner pads might need attention. I did worry about this and will be ordering those parts from our host. Last thing I would want to happen is a failure in there…yikes, no happy ending there.

I have the drive belts, the oil cooler seal kit and a new power steering pump to install. Noticed a leak coming from the power steering rack area, so I am guessing (right now) it is the pressure line but it could possibly be the return lines to the reservoir. Will get under there and see where it is leaking from. I am hoping it is just the hoses needing replacement, or even PS rack seals where the hoses connect. We shall see.

PO (previous owner) may have put the wrong liquid in as well; using actual PS fluid instead of the Porsche Factory recommended ATF. In either case, I will be taking a very close look since I have noticed the reservoir level drops some after a short drive.

Thanks so much.

Regarding the PS lines, using standard transmission line hose I was able to cut off and replace all of the old lines except the high pressure line and the feed line which is available on pelican. I also replaced the reservoir since it contains a filter.