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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 40
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Piecing together a timing belt kit
I own a 1984 944. Has the updated water pump.
I am looking to change the belts, rollers, water pump and all seals. Since I have an updated water pump, am I correct in ordering the late timing belt kit? Here are the part links that I am thinking of ordering: https://944online.com/index.php/new-944-water-pump-kit-83-88-2-5-stage-2.html I found a seal set at zims, with the following description: 14 piece kit includes: 1 cam seal 1 cam o-ring 1 distributor housing to cam housing seal 2 balance shaft seals 2 balance shaft housing o-rings 1 front cranshaft seal 1 front crankshaft o-ring 3 mylar washers Fits: 1983- mid 84 models up to-eng 43E14858 43E21783, the engine seals, says it's for 83-84 mid models. I think that it should say 83-85.5? This is the seal kit that I need to order? Is there anything else that I am forgetting? This seems to be a cheaper way than ordering a kit from ECS for $500+ Last edited by rex LT; 03-10-2018 at 02:36 PM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 4,048
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forget about model years and engine numbers.
if you have the updated water pump (with the shiny belt guard bar thing, pictured on your 944 online link), then you use the -86 type belt kit with a 46mm black plastic with red/orange bearing timing belt idler. |
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Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
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Hmm. The linked kit does not have any seals. I nosed around a bit and could not find a "14 piece kit". So I'm not really clear on which kit you are asking about. However, I will say that since buying my 944, Pelican has been an amazing, accurate and consistent resource in buying parts for my 1984 non turbo 944. Today was a perfect example. I ordered a clutch slave they said would be here Monday. However it showed up today, meaning I can install it tomorrow (Sunday) and be able to drive it Sunday afternoon as it will be unseasonably warm. Pretty cool.
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84 944, 87 Vanagon, 88 Mitsubishi Van Wagon, 88 Supra Targa, 1990 Audi 90 20V Quattro sedan, 1992 Lexus LS400, 1993 LandCruiser, 1997 LandCruiser, 2017 Subaru Outback. |
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Registered
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What about the balance shaft races? I understand replacing balance shaft seals alone doesn't always fix things.
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Registered
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I happen to be into a similar project myself, mainly to cure an oil leak. The belts, rollers, seals and races are relatively recent (30k miles) so something didn't last as expected, either the crank or the balance seals went bad. Any opinions?
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 4,048
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that much oil, everywhere makes me think your oil pan gasket is tired rather than a front seal.
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Registered
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Lovely, the oil has crawled all the way up the front of the engine. What is the fix, does it involve dropping the cross member?
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Registered
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Well after doing some cleanup and disassembly, I think it is the cam seal. Oil is running down the front of the engine and going everywhere. Is there anything else in the area it might be? The cam tower gasket is fairly fresh, is there a gasket behind the distributor housing?.
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 4,048
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distributor cap has a foam dust-gasket.
then theres an o ring and a rubber bushing between cam gear housing and cam housing...and a radial seal behind the camshaft gear |
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Registered
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What about a race? Also what size is the cam cheesehead bolt and where is it sold?
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 4,048
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you can get a tool for the cheesehead on the shelf at your local auto store, a set of 3 or 4 sizes for $8 or so, triplesquare usually called.
i think the one for the cam is 10 or 12mm. race is between the camshaft and the radial seal |
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Registered User
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Just finishing up a front reseal, belts, and water pump. I called Ian instead of placing the order online. He was extremely helpful on getting me everything I needed. All the parts came bagged and marked where they go. I can't recomend them highly enough.
Also, if you are going to do the cam seal, order the offset cam key. You have everything off to do the job. Other than a little filing on the key to get it to fit right, there is no extra work. And one other thing: If you strip the cheese head bolt it is easy do drill out the head as stated in other posts. Took maybe five minutes. Last edited by tocheck; 03-21-2018 at 05:41 AM.. |
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Registered
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I discovered a really easy way to get the cam bolt out. Instead of struggling with a 2nd wrench to hold the cam, just put a drill bit or screw driver through the screw hole at about 2 o'clock. It lines up perfectly with the cam gear teeth and will lock the cam gear in place for loosening the cheesehead bolt.
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