oil cooler hose rebuild question

morriss · 09-09-2010, 03:02 PM

So I went to Napa and they said "No, we can only build hoses with our fittings. They sent me to another place called Capital Bearing. The guy there said he needed to know if the oil cooler hoses are high pressure hoses. If so, it would cost $80 EACH hose due to the hoses being high pressure and the labor to pull the old hoses and fetter crimps off! Is $160 for a rebuild reasonable? It doesn't sound like it to me. I can remove the old fetter crimps and hoses from the fittings id I need to- I did it when I rebuilt the fuel hoses.

#1 What is the pressure rating for these hoses (I don't even see them ch. 17 of the WSM.
#2 What's a reasonable price to pay to have them rebuilt?

Nixon · Nixon's Garage

I'm not sure if there the same but I went through it sounds about right. I have a 78 and live in Memphis, I called just about everybody in Arkansas, TN, and Mississippi. I could not find a single person/shop that would rebuild mine. I finally broke down and shelled out $189.00 for a new set from Pelican. I have to tell you I'm glad I did. The hoses fit very well and the alternator standoff was much better then the original. For a $30.00 diff I would go with the new hoses if available. I think it would save you some headaches. Good luck............Nix

Mrmerlin · 09-09-2010, 03:59 PM

I got a set done in Denver at Emeric and Hill for 80.00 for both lines
Gregs shop is also selling some or it might be 928 INTL that has the rebuilds available

morriss · 09-09-2010, 06:24 PM

Yeah, $30 more for brand spankin' new is the way to go. "We can't guarantee these hoses after we rebuild them, you know" is what the guy at Capital Bearing told me. That didn't sound too promising.
So, any idea on the pressure these hoses are rated for?

Danglerb · 09-09-2010, 08:39 PM

I think what you might want to find is a hydraulic repair shop.

morriss · 09-10-2010, 04:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danglerb

I think what you might want to find is a hydraulic repair shop.

I'll see if I can find one nearby and report back.

tmpusfugit · 04:37 AM

Regards the question about what is the pressure rating? The pressure on these hose's would certainly never be more than oil pressure in the engine, if that. I would expect the rating to be no more than 500 psi with the actual working pressure of about 100 psi. I know there are a fair number of people who do not support the process, but Sharkskin has detailed his process for "self repair" of fuel hoses, and the like in his various write ups, see SharkSkin - Shark Attack Round Thirty Four - Fuel Lines for example. The crimped on end caps are not a requirement at the pressures we are talking about....just another approach that can save money if you are "handy" and willing to do a bit of work....

Xlot · 09-10-2010, 04:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tmpusfugit

Regards the question about what is the pressure rating? The pressure on these hose's would certainly bever be more than oil pressure in the engine, if that.

The oil system runs at a max of 8 bar (which is when the pressure relief valve opens). Thats about 120psi.. so nothing too strenuous.

You certainly don't need hydraulic hose and fittings rated to 1000psi or whatever.

JK McDonald · JK McDonald's Garage

Hey Morriss, Here in Texas I have had many after market fuel and hydraulic hoses built up at “Bearing Supply” outlets. They support oil field, industrial and farm applications and have no problem reusing your old fittings if unusual or special threading is an issue. They carry an excellent variety of hose sizes in stock and I’ve never had a problem with their product quality. One point to verify (if your hose has a curved metal fitting at each end) is to make sure they are properly oriented in the right directions before their mandrel machine crimps the final connection.

I normally remove the fittings from the old hose before taking them in to be duplicated. Use a magic marker line on the hose and fitting to indicate where the curve is to point then cut the crimped collar at a 45 degree angle in two places with a very fine toothed hacksaw. Just pony up for the new crimp collars and a couple of dollars/foot for the length of hydraulic line. The local farmers standing around at the counter always do look at you a little strange when leaving because of a tendency to dance out the door with your new hose.

Good Luck, Michael

stepson · 09-11-2010, 11:02 AM

Morris,
In the DFW area, I have used Stuart Hose and also Four Star hose to rebuild lines. They usually do it while I wait. If they can't replace the fittings, they use the existing fittings and/or weld the existing fittings to something they can deal with. I have never had any issue with one that I've had rebuilt.
$40 total got me both hoses and a tranny hose rebuilt.

Good Luck and see you at Third Coast

morriss · 09-12-2010, 03:32 PM

Man, thanks for the replies on this thread. I now know I have many more options to consider. I am going to look up those shops you fellow Texas guys mentioned and give them a call.

morriss · 09-18-2010, 07:01 PM

Yeah, I know it's taken me awhile to get back to ya'll on this...Tim Smith here in the Austin group suggested a place called Austin Rebuilders Inc. down on the south side of Austin. I called and they said about $35 - $40 per hose. Since I live 30 miles NORTH of Austin, I had to wait until today to drop the hoses off. An hour and a half later I picked them up, rebuilt with Goodyear hose, for $81 with tax. Thanks Tim, I owe you a beer next get-together.

tlsmith1999 · 09-20-2010, 10:12 AM

NP, Glad they worked out for you.

stepson · 09-20-2010, 10:18 AM

Good deal. Glad you got it done locally.

928webermagneto · 05-17-2020, 11:30 AM

I just replaced both of my oil cooler lines using a piece of 12 AN stainless steel braided hose are used the brand name by Russell it can be purchased through several local sources A grinder with a cut off wheel slices right through the old crimps then pry off with a screw driver Match your hose link to your old hose most people tape the ends with electrical tape very tightly at that cut location the tape keeps the stainless braid from fraying you also can use the same grinder and cut off wheel to cut the braided stainless hose just make sure you clean it up inside Clean up your old steel fittings put a light coat of oil on them and on the inside of the hose and then push them together are used regular heater hose clamps made in the USA that will hold the pressure no problem if you want a stronger clamp you can buy t-bolt clamps for about $10 a peace if you match your hose length to the old hose the length will be fine and since you are using hose clamps you can rotate the ends to the clocking you need and also locate the tightening screw for the clamp In any location where you can tighten it while it is on the car after driving the car for a while and it is up to temperature this allows the hose to be more permeable tighten the clamps down a little bit more This is a repair you can do today and not have to wait for parts