Whats on your shelf of goops and sprays?

[Danglerb]

I am accumulating quite a bunch of goop and spray for the 928, enough its completely taking over a shelf. If there is interest and replies to this thread I will edit and try to keep the info in some kind of master list format.

Penetrating oil.
Right now I buy anything I see that I don't have.
WD40
PB Blaster
Liquid Wrench
Breakfree
Kroil
Marvel Mystery Oil
PSF 50/50 with acetone

Anti-seize.
Can I get away with one GOOD product or do a need a variety?
Wurth CU-800
Bostik Pure Nickel
Anti Seize Technology, I ended up buying 4 kinds of it off ebay, pure nickel, alumiplate, special, and something else.

Gasket goop.
No idea what I should have.

Contact cleaner and preservative.
About the first question I posted here, and I still haven't decided what to use.
Stabilant 22
Rejex Corrosion-X
OX GARD
Vaseline


Lock lubricant.
Graphite mixed in the base solvent of WD40, Stoddard solvent, which evaporates leaving the graphite, seems to work ok.

Silicone spray.
The kind of stuff for getting orings and hoses on tight fittings.

Wurth HHS 2000, sprays wet like penetrating oil, sticks where you put it, my new best friend for hinges, slides, etc. High pressure and temperature rated too.

Parts cleaner.
Simple Green
Brake cleaner
Citrus based solvent

CRC MAF cleaner, sounds like good stuff, $6 at Kragen.

Motor oil.
When I put oil in the car, before the empty goes in recycle I let it drain into any handy small plastic tub, and later use it anytime I want just a drop or two of nothing special oil.

[surfdog4]

I'm a big fan of Liquid Wrench

[Danglerb]

Originally Posted by surfdog4

I'm a big fan of Liquid Wrench

Kragen has a coupon via email, $0.75 a can for liquid wrench, limit two.
Permetex orange hand cleaner goop 25 cents
Gunk Engine brite 99 cents
Scott shop towels on a roll $1

The way I burn through PB Blaster I may print another page of coupons from the email and get a couple more cans.

All the penetrating oil stuff seems to have Stoddard solvent as the base, but with various additives. I don't know if any are better or even different, but can't hurt to have plenty of cheap stuff plus some others to try if it doesn't work.

A couple more that sound good are;
Mopar Rust Penetrant
Lear Corrosion Block (a marine product)
GM heat valve lubricant

Nice article in the link below on stuck rusty bolts.
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_199906/ai_n8872738

Beeswax was also a suggestion in the article, heat the item, apply and allow to wick in solidify.

[Danglerb]

I still don't have room to put a car in my two car garage due to my old computer collecting hobby, and I have a 350 ft2 storage unit as well.

When do I get to meet my brothers Bill and Gus?

As for goops and sprays, I don't know what I need. Good mechanics differ in the amount of stuff they have on hand. Greg has a hazmat cabinet full of "stuff", I think if Wurth makes it, he has it. Paints, cleaners, lubes, sealers and stuff I have no idea what it does.

I don't need anything like that amount, and Walmart is open 24/7, but I would like to have all the basics covered so the midnight crew doesn't start greeting me by name. First job I do will be gasket goop intensive, swapping a Cobra intake on my 91 Mustang. Later on I want to give a try at rebuilding a G28/08 transmission and maybe, MAYBE put together a Euro or Hybrid motor, so assembly lubes, and more sealing goop there.

I figure a shop is a mans castle, however you like it is the way it should be, as long as its not too much of a hazard.

[Normy]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

I am accumulating quite a bunch of goop and spray for the 928, enough its completely taking over a shelf. If there is interest and replies to this thread I will edit and try to keep the info in some kind of master list format.

Penetrating oil.
Right now I buy anything I see that I don't have.
WD40
PB Blaster
Liquid Wrench
Breakfree
Kroil
Marvel Mystery Oil

Anti-seize.
Can I get away with one GOOD product or do a need a variety?
Wurth CU-800

Gasket goop.
No idea what I should have.

Contact cleaner and preservative.
About the first question I posted here, and I still haven't decided what to use.
Stabilant 22
Rejex Corrosion-X


Lock lubricant.
Napa has some store branded aerosol that looks like a solvent/cleaner that leaves a graphite residue. Saw it, haven't bought or tried yet.

Silicone spray.
The kind of stuff for getting orings and hoses on tight fittings.

Parts cleaner.
Simple Green
Brake cleaner
Citrus based solvent

CRC MAF cleaner, sounds like good stuff, $6 at Kragen.

Motor oil.
When I put oil in the car, before the empty goes in recycle I let it drain into any handy small plastic tub, and later use it anytime I want just a drop or two of nothing special oil.

Nearly all of what you've detailed but I'll add a few. First of all, I have ARMOR-ALL everywhere. I have two bottles ready, to stand behind the current half-used bottle. I use the Armor-All on my POD, and on the air-dam and spoiler on the rear of my 928. It also goes on my door sills.

Armor-All is a product that does amazing things, primarily because it is a spf30 sunblock. It is also a polymer oil, and makes things look dark. To boot- it is an alcohol based substance.

The Alcohol is to make it flow smoothly. The plastic is the preservative, and there is a simple sun-block in the formula. This all sounds pretty inert, but it isn't: Armor-All needs to be used on a regular basis, or the alcohol will dry out the surface quickly. An Armor-All'ed surface will "age" quicker than a non AA surface.

A black rubber product exposed to Florida sun for 10 years will look NEW if it has been Armor-All'ed every 14 days. Hello? I've done this on several cars-! Armor-All works. I have no affiliation to the company that makes this product.

N!

[Danglerb]

Originally Posted by Normy

Nearly all of what you've detailed but I'll add a few. First of all, I have ARMOR-ALL everywhere. I have two bottles ready, to stand behind the current half-used bottle. I use the Armor-All on my POD, and on the air-dam and spoiler on the rear of my 928. It also goes on my door sills.

Armor-All is a product that does amazing things, primarily because it is a spf30 sunblock. It is also a polymer oil, and makes things look dark. To boot- it is an alcohol based substance.

The Alcohol is to make it flow smoothly. The plastic is the preservative, and there is a simple sun-block in the formula. This all sounds pretty inert, but it isn't: Armor-All needs to be used on a regular basis, or the alcohol will dry out the surface quickly. An Armor-All'ed surface will "age" quicker than a non AA surface.

A black rubber product exposed to Florida sun for 10 years will look NEW if it has been Armor-All'ed every 14 days. Hello? I've done this on several cars-! Armor-All works. I have no affiliation to the company that makes this product.

N!

EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I keep a bottle of armorall on the shelf so I can amuse myself as time ravages the plastic container full of the evil goo. It used to have silicone in it, but I hear thats gone now, but I still don't use it, too car lot shiny.

For plastic stuff.
Adams VRT
Aerospace 303

Leather surfaces.
Lexol
Hide Food.

Wheels.
409
Simple Green
Dupont Teflon (only cause it was free after rebate)

Paint
Maguirs Deep Crystal to wash
Dawn dishwashing to strip wax
Rejex to protect

Tires.
dunno.

[Danglerb]

Noticed this in another forum, looks worth repeating.

February 2, 2008
Machinist's Workshop V20 number 2, April/May 2007, page 35

Article: “Testing Penetrating oils”
This reports a test of penetrating oils where they measured
the force required to loosen rusty test devices. The
details reported here were validated by the original
article author. He also added some details on the methods.
You must buy the issue if you want to see how they did the
test. The back issue is available for purchase.
The table below extracts the results table The lower the
number of pounds the better. Interesting that a simple mix
of acetone and power steering fluid (PSF) works the best!


Penetrating oil - Average load -Price per fluid ounce
None ...............516 pounds -- 0
WD-40 ..............238 pounds --$0.25
PB Blaster..........214 pounds --$0.35
Liquid Wrench ......127 pounds --$0.21
Kano Kroil .........106 pounds --$0.75
PSF-Acetone mix ....53 pounds ---$0.10 (50/50 mix)

Note from original article author:
1) These are loads required to free the test piece after
8 hours of immersion in penetrating oil. This is
probably not representative of a quick squirt just
before a wrench is applied.
2) The original article states ATF was used in the DIY
mix. It was actually PSF.

[MarkRobinson]

Cleaners: Simple Green, Denatured Alcohol, Sprayway glass cleaner

Lubricants: Liquid wrench, WD-40, Lucas synth. grease, Mobil 1 oil, Brad-Penn Racing Oil

Paint Cleaners: Zymol HD cleanse, Automagic BC1 & BC2 paint cleaners
Waxes: Zymol Glasur (for Porsche), Automagic Banana wax, Natty's Paste Wax (best stuff!)

Paints: BASF-RM Series Semi-gloss ($17/can)

Leather: Hide-food (Connolly), Armor-all leather (good stuff), Kiwi Mink oil in a can (apply in direct sunlight)

[Landseer]

Top of mind, In no particular order....

Engine Assembly lube
Silicone Dielectric Grease
SilGlide
Felpro Blue
CRC Electrical contact cleaner
CRC BrakeKleen
Pure Acetone
Gain
Permatex 1 & 2
Liquid wrench
Liquid wrench / teflon spray
3 in 1 Oil
Teflon tape
White lithium grease
Marine trailer bearing grease
Gallon WD 40
Spray cans WD 40
Johnsons silicone spray
Engine Brite spray cleaner

Metal Solvent cabinet.

[Normy]

Rejex polish....

-It isn't quite as good as the old Blue Coral carnauba, which was the "workout wax", and took about 2 hours to rub out and caused my arm to ache for a day. The Blue Coral was a was that was this good: I waxed my rock gray metallic '85 VW Scirocco with this stuff, then drove down Main Street in Daytona Beach. The car shined so well that it actually attracted eyes away from motorcycles.

The Rejex is good, but you need to do it the next day. To use it right, you wash and wax your car in the evening, then leave it in the garage overnight. The next morning you wax it again. THAT shine is worthy of a show car, and is the same as the Blue Coral carnauba I talked about above.

-It is actually an aircraft polish. It isn't a wax, something to keep in mind. If you keep your car outside, this might not be the best bet, since it might not protect the finish enough. Or then again, it just might. Contact the manufacturer! No affiliation, but here's their website: www.rejex.com

N!

[Normy]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I keep a bottle of armorall on the shelf so I can amuse myself as time ravages the plastic container full of the evil goo. It used to have silicone in it, but I hear thats gone now, but I still don't use it, too car lot shiny.

For plastic stuff.
Adams VRT
Aerospace 303

Leather surfaces.
Lexol
Hide Food.

Wheels.
409
Simple Green
Dupont Teflon (only cause it was free after rebate)

Paint
Maguirs Deep Crystal to wash
Dawn dishwashing to strip wax
Rejex to protect

Tires.
dunno.

I appreciate all that, but I have to say that everything I've armor-alled in the past 24 years of car ownership has been preserved. I pulled a perfect instrument pod from a '79 car in 2002, and 6 years later it is still perfect. I Armor-All my wing and my pod and tires and front air dam, and all of them resist age. I suspect that used regularly, Armor-All will preserve anything. Embalming fluid for your car~

N

[Danglerb]

Wurth HHS 2000, This is serious wonder goop, one spray and I wanted to put some on everything in the car its suitable for, hinges, slides, linkage, suspension, etc.

Goes on "wet" and penetrates, then turns to undried snot and stays that way forever.

Blurb.
Wurth HHS-2000 lubricant is highly adhesive and resistant to high pressure. It penetrates into tight areas and sets into a high temperature grease. HHS 2000 is great for parts subjected to high pressures, impacts and vibrations. It provides long term action and corrosion protection. Resistant to water, brine, many acids and alkalis. Unaffected temperature range: -95 F to +392 F. 16.9 oz.

[Landseer]

Thanks for that. New one that could be very useful.

[rich]

When it comes to lubricants and sealants I have a wide selection of stuff. But a couple things I like are copper coat spray for gaskets and Yama-bond. The best gasket sealant ever. It's semi-hardening ans silver in color so you don't see it next to the engine seam. I also have a complete line of solvents, reducers, hardners and paint products.

[DanielDudley]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

Wurth HHS 2000, This is serious wonder goop, one spray and I wanted to put some on everything in the car its suitable for, hinges, slides, linkage, suspension, etc.

Goes on "wet" and penetrates, then turns to undried snot and stays that way forever.

.

Yes, I have some of that, and IIRC, it cost about 20.00. Worth it though.

[Danglerb]

Permatex The Right Stuff
Kind of expensive, and comes in three colors for different temperature ranges I think. Some shops don't allow its use, some live by it.