Warning Lights on Dash - Sometimes stay on

mtelliott · 09-28-2007, 10:09 AM

This is a tough one.

The warning lights on my dash sometimes all stay on at ignition. I'm trying to predict when / why it happens.

It seems like in the A.M., I turn on the car to drive to work and they all go out upon ignition. I go to leave work (9+ hours later), and they all go off at ignition start.

However, if I drive the car for an hour, turn it off, then turn it back on, they all come on and stay on.

I've been told that the trigger to turn it them off comes from starting the car and the alternator boosting up the charge for a second. Can anyone confirm?

And once they come on and stay on, there's nothing I can do to get them off. I can turn the car off, then back on, and yet they all stay on. I did once rev it immediately at ignition start-up and got them to go off when they were all on. Not sure if this was just a coincidence or not.

Thoughts?

Michael

Normy · 09-29-2007, 03:54 AM

This is a common occurence when a car is equiped with a Motorola alternator. Many VW's and Audi's have the same problem.

My car does this. When I start it up, I usually have ALL the warning lights illuminated...until I rev the engine above about 1800 RPM. Then they go out and stay out. But if I shut the engine off and turn it back on again, they do the same thing. Apparently, there is a resistor somewhere that you can change and it will cause the alternator to come online at a lower RPM.

There was a thread over on Rennlist in which they talked about how to solve this problem, but I cannot remember what it was called. Do a search over there and you'll probably find it.

Good luck-

mtelliott · 09-29-2007, 10:37 AM

Do you have to be a member of rennlist to search. I really haven't figured out their sight yet and I've heard such negative comments both on the Pelican 928 and 911 board about the folks there that I've never really looked into their sight.

Danglerb · 09-29-2007, 11:05 AM

Nope, just register and you can do everything except, post in members only, post for sale and buying ads, and upload pictures directly to the site, you can easily link them though from many free hosting sources after you make something like 5 or 10 posts.

You do have to register for a lot of stuff like searching to work, but you can also search using google.

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=327106

Normy · 04:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danglerb

Nope, just register and you can do everything except, postdDo in members only, post for sale and buying ads, and upload pictures directly to the site, you can easily link them though from many free hosting sources after you make something like 5 or 10 posts.

You do have to register for a lot of stuff like searching to work, but you can also search using google.

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=327106

In my opinion you register there at your own risk~

I posted over there for years, but eventually, I wound up in an agument with the management over something stupid. Othere than there and here, I'm not sure where to post for 928 information. Maybe you could call Pelican or one of the "big three" 928 suppliers for advice as well.

DanielDudley · 09-29-2007, 04:51 PM

No offense to anyone, but a lot of Pelicans are bi postal. Rennlist has a very good 928 forum, and many knowledgeable people post there. They are usually very civil at the very least, and many will go out of their way to help a fellow 928er.

If it wasn't for Rennlist, I would have given up on 928s many years ago. The most valuable resource available to 928 owners IMO.

Now the OT board OTOH ... NOT as fun as Pelican unless you stay away from the Baiters. Some people are suckers for being suckered. just say no.

mtelliott · 09-29-2007, 08:30 PM

OK, back on subject. Anyone else have any thoughts before I go to Rennlist to search?

Sorry, but don't want to get into a bashing contest. Just want to better understand my car and support Pelican in the process.

Michael

Danglerb · 09-29-2007, 10:35 PM

No need to search, I gave you a link to the thread.

Rixter · 10-01-2007, 04:45 AM

try jiggling the key, do they go out? how about if you slightly turn the key back, go out?
you may have an ignition switch problem

mtelliott · 10-01-2007, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rixter

try jiggling the key, do they go out? how about if you slightly turn the key back, go out?
you may have an ignition switch problem

I'll try that the next time I reproduce it.

I found this on Rennlist:

"First thing to check is the bulb behind the volt Gage. This can be done by turning the key to the #2 position. (just before starter circuit) Check the lights all over the cluster as this is essentially a circuit check to make sure all sensors and circuits have continuity. There should be a red light at the bottom of the Gage. If there isn't, you need to replace the bulb. The bulb allows the current to flow through and energize the circuit. One generally changes out the resister at this time as well. 9 times out of 10, this is the issue with this symptom you mention."

I'm not sure if you have to remove the pod to get to the light but I'm going to take a look the first chance I get. Anyone know if you can get to the bulbs without pulling the pod. I just replace the turn signal / wiper / cruise stalk this weekend without to many issues. Found the method to doing it by searching various sights. Didn't have to pull the pod which made me very happy.

Michael

mtelliott · 10-15-2007, 10:02 AM

Update: Now that the weather has turned cool, I'm not seeing this problem. I haven't pulled the connections off yet and cleaned however it has to do something with heat cycle.

Michael

BIMMERMIKE · 10-15-2007, 02:03 PM

Could be your Central Warning System(CWS) located under the dead pedal. I had to replace mind after I tried changing out the igniton switch with no luck.
My problem was intermittent at first then all my warning lamps stayed on no matter how warm or cold. Try swapping with a know working unit.

mtelliott · 10-15-2007, 02:13 PM

I was headed in that direction.

I still want to clean the connections as soon as my children will let me. May have to borrow a known good one from someone to see if I can remedy. But of course, it would have to be doing it for me to be able to test.

If it doesn't happen all winter, that would be good. But, I'll know the problem is lurking somewhere and it will bug me.

Michael

Alan in AZ · 06:10 AM

See the last few posts...

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=363900&referrerid=6055

Alan

mtelliott · 10-16-2007, 06:32 AM

Thanks for the advice. I'll take a look at it when I'm cleaning connections.

Also planning on getting a new ground strap. Anyone know if I can use something different than the $62 one Pelican sells. Seems like all I need is heavy duty ground strap (like a 4mm) would do. I know when I replaced the ground strap on my 911 (OEM), it cleared up the dancing guages I occassionaly encountered. I don't mind paying a premium for OEM, just not a $62 premium.

Michael

Alan in AZ · 10-16-2007, 07:10 AM

It doesn't really have to be stock - but it ideally needs to be 1-2 AWG (the positive cable is about 1 AWG).

The stock later strap is a rubber encased flat woven ribbon (not sure about earlier ones) - this easily fits in the gap in the battery box lid & under the tool panel - a 1AWG cable will be more challenging in these spots... Plus you need pretty much exactly the right length and a big ring terminal (big flat terminal/small hole = hard to find) for the ground point location. This means you have to make it yourself (or have it made) and find/make the ground point terminal too.

Its a bit of a hassle to build for most folks - sounds easy but...

Alan

mtelliott · 10-16-2007, 07:19 AM

Of course. I almost forgot that I own a Porsche. It's never simple.

Maybe I'll pick up an inexpensive one at an auto parts store to see if it helps with any of my simptoms, and if it does, then I'll purchase the OEM version. If I need to make adjustments to what I purchase, I will just to get by for now.

Thanks for the advice.

Michael

Danglerb · 10-16-2007, 10:06 AM

I had ZERO luck finding anything 2" longer than the OEM strap from Porsche that was flat and large. Last place I planned to check were some of the VW and off road places, but I ended up buying a new LONG group 49 battery (PO put in a 48 because thats what the book says in store). Tell us what you find.

mtelliott · 11-05-2007, 03:50 PM

My first real clue as to what may be the culprit. I cleaned the ground strap. Nothing significant to report.

Today on the way home, warning light starts coming on. Then off. Flickers a couple times like that. I look down at the voltage guage i have wired in, not the one on the dash, to find that I'm charging around 10.8 volts.

Look on the dash, the volt meter is showing below the line.

It would appear that I have a dying alternator.

Would anyone care to confirm this theory or put forth an alternative theory?

Michael

Danglerb · 11-05-2007, 04:31 PM

An alternate alternator theory?

Where do you have the meter wired up at?

Three spots come to mind I would hook it to and check for some period of time, battery post, boost post, alternator.

OTOH how hard is it to get the alternator out and test it? Gotta be easier to get a wire on it to your voltmeter.