Has anyone removed the head studs?
 

I have a 4.7 with the gold studs. their threaded all the way.

1) Has anyone removed these without damaging them?

2) Do they have any kind of a thread locker at the base?

3) Have you re-used them after the block is recon'd?

4) Double nut method?

Last ones I saw removed they used a Victor wrench, and it was still a chore.

doublenut can damage the threads. Use a proper thread puller.

What type of puller have you used? I was at the machine shop and all they had was some rube goldberg device that grabbed the top of the stud. The machinist told me that it still wrecks the threads.

I've double nutted studs before. What type of damage are you speaking of?

Stretched studs? I would think if you placed the nuts low to the block you would get the most leverage and the least amount of torsional flex.

The method I saw used was to heat the studs with a torch (Victor wrench), and take them out with a double nut instead of a thread extractor which they did not like using on these studs. Studs were replaced after nikasil with ARP bolts.

928 studs are notoriously hard to remove......so many say. I have removed studs from only one 928 block, and there is no comparison to the many iron blocks I have dealt with in the past.......

Your attack of double nuts placed close to the block is just fine. be careful applying heat.

after you chase the threads in the block (the recommended way is to use a thread chaser--not a tap--then vigorously clean the threads and put new ones in according to the manufacturer's guidelines) , I suggest you replace the studs with a new set even if you removed them with no visible damage. It's cheap insurance.......

using a stud removal tool, (a special socket for each size of stud) I've never had any problems with removing studs from 928 blocks.... I've done three 928 blocks, and this is my only experience of removing studs. The head studs were easier than the girdle studs on all 3 blocks. I broke the studs loose, after using some PB Blaster to soak overnight. After breaking loose I would shoot some more PB blaster in there and let them sit.

My approach was slow and careful when removing studs. Mostly because I don't have alot of experince removing them, or the stud removal sockets. I also wanted to take care of the threads. The girdle studs are NLA.... so no new ones available.

last I heard, Mike Semmard was offering studs kits for the bottom end.

Better than OEM.

I asked my mechanic today and he told me a stud removal tool is for getting a stud out that isn't to be reused because its already messed up, and he always uses a double nut. Maybe I've lost something in translation, but he didn't seem at all iffy about how its done.

I've done 3 engines and all have been a bugger. Spray lots of rost-off and let them sit for a few days. You can then double nut them and most will come out. If you have some stubborn ones, a mapp gas torch on that area of the block (down low where they thread in) will do it just fine. You won't hurt the block...lay in the heat there. I had some I was sure would never come out...the heat did the trick in short order.

I have re-used on 3 engines without issue.

Thanks all! I hope to have time next week. I have to travel again this week but that should be it until the next storm.

Maybe you should try to use the "collet type tool, that is offered by Snap on. This is the best tool to remove 911 studs, and they are a sob to get out of aluminum cases, and this tool will not hurt the threads.
Best of luck

Well the tools showed up today. Now I just need itme to try to drill it.:(

Nitro Carborized Left hand drill bit

High speed left hand bottoming tap

Alloy Steel left hand socket head cap screw

If the snaps I can still drill it out at least on more time.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209688212.jpg

How far down in the hole is the stud?

The top of the stud it 3 1/2" down. The threaded section is 1 1/4" long.