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i like to know what type and brand of oil everyone is using and what there thoughts
i like to know what type and brand of oil everyone is using, and what there thoughts are. I have a 1980 s and this is my first oil change since i bought the car a month ago. It has 66k miles and runs fine. thanks
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Rotella T, one car has synthetic, and one has the dino version, sold by the gallon at walmart for $18 and $10 respectively. Synthetic used to be SJ rated, and the dino still is, which means lots of zinc for our older motors. I emailed Rotella (shell oil) and got a quick reply that despite the SM rating on the new synthetic that is still has a high zinc content, but I decided to pay half the money and get the dino version that is still marked SJ.
Note many people who switched to Rotella T reported a drop in hot idle oil pressure. Since I buy oil for lubrication and good flow it didn't bother me, and seems within Porsche tolerances. |
Royal Purple full synthetic 10w-40.
I was using Lucas racing oil 20w50 prior. Went with thiner oil for better lubrication now that I have a monster fan on the cooling system. |
Not another oil thread 8>)
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I'm still using up the Royal Purple cases I picked up last year, 20w-50 for the 81. It does not like 40 weight, lifters were quite noisy on a hot July day with 5w-40. I'll be switching to Lubrication Engineers dyno oil once I am out of RP. |
Penzoil 15W40 Long Life. I change it when it starts to darken a bit.
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7 quarts Mobil 1 15/50, 2 quarts Brad Penn Racing 20/50, Mahle filter. :)
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One shop in my area keeps Torco racing oil in stock. Apparently racing oils are not subject to formula restrictions like mainstream oils.
If I owned a fleet of 928's all getting lots of miles put on them, I'd pick the brand with the deepest pockets and run their cheapest oil that meets Porsche spec. |
which atf would you recommend?
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I used to run Kendall straight 50 in my BB Chevs back in the day. Lately I've been using Castrol GTX. But after reading some dyno info I'm heading out to get Brad Penn. (the old Kendall) Kind of the circle of life...
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I think the lines have blurred in modern day racing oils, but I sent off an email to Torco asking about drain intervals etc.
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My email to Torco must have gone in a black hole, but I talked to the local rep and he said their TR1 racing oil meets all the normal API specs and extended (3k+ mile) drain intervals are fine.
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Mobil 1 15w50 since 1992. 250,000+ miles. No problems so far
Steve |
I run the Royal Purple (15W-40 or 20W-50)...it works really well for me, 8000 miles between changes and I usually run 1 qt of Rislone towards the end of the change. She is due for another change now...just need to set aside the time.
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Due to the fact that I only drive my car about 2500 miles per year, I change the oil every six months- January and July. I've been told not to leave it in the sump longer than that. Most of my driving is stop and go in traffic, but the car sometimes sits for a week at a time in the humid Florida air.
Doug Hillary over on Rennlist did several great threads about oil and careful laboratory testing, and basically proved that you can run Mobil 1 Delvac upwards of 10,000 miles with no appreciable detriment. His running oil analysis proved it. On his particular car, that is- I followed his advice and used Delvac for a while, but I couldn't tell any benefit. Since I started changing the oil based on the calendar rather than the odometer, I just went back to plain old Castrol GTX, 10w-40. Seems to work just fine. My car has always used about 1.0- 1.5 quarts in 3000 miles, and it should be noted that I do not autocross or run this car at high power levels for long periods. N! |
I use mobil 1 15w50 full synthetic.
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http://www.bradpennracing.com
"Penn-Grade 1® oils “typical” 1,500 ppm Zinc (Zn) and 1340-1400 ppm Phosphorus (P) content" "Most people are familiar with this oil as Kendall GT-1, which it was formerly called." |
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