Single "POP" sound

Dean_Fuller · 11:27 AM

I have started to notice a single "POP" sound from under the car when accelerating from a stop...At first it was only when I was turning from a dead stop but now about 75 % of the time I hear a POP sound even when not turning. Its just a single, non repeating sound like something moving in a bind. Started about the time I replaced a PS hose on the drivers side. To access the bottom fitting I removed the sway bar bolts to pull it down a bit. I replaced these bolts and rubber bushing and have since rechecked this and it seems tight...Any ideas where I should start? I have yet to pin point the sound because I can not reproduce sitting still under the car.

DanielDudley · 10-25-2008, 01:50 PM

Check the big alignment bolts. They are in a slot with a lot of play, and if one gets loose it will make a clunk similar to what you describe.

Dean_Fuller · 10-25-2008, 03:26 PM

Thanks...I will check that Sunday.

rhjames · rhjames's Garage

re-torque everything you touched prior to the hose replacement.

check the alignment bolts as well, just as DD suggests.

My name is spelled correctly here>>>>>>>>Russ

surfdog4 · 10-26-2008, 05:16 PM

it's the sound of money leaving your wallet..surely you've heard it before?

Dean_Fuller · 10-27-2008, 11:00 AM

Okay...stupid question here....I'm looking in the PET and can't find this "alignment bolt and slot"....Can some one steer me in the right direction?

Danglerb · 10-27-2008, 07:51 PM

Maybe 17 or 18?

DanielDudley · 10-27-2008, 08:32 PM

17 is it.

Dean_Fuller · 10-28-2008, 07:35 AM

Thanks guys....that very clear for us "slow" mechanics. Thank God for the PET. Let me check the disk for torque specs....I guess.

SeanR · 10-28-2008, 07:01 PM

You are talking about the power steering hose at the front left of the car correct? That PET diagram is for the rear.

Check your ball joints, the 2 19mm bolts that control your camber/caster and make sure your steering rack bushings are not gone.

Dean_Fuller · 10-29-2008, 06:24 AM

Sean...yes the PS hose front left....I had a friend drive the car and I was in the passenger seat with the door open and hanging out....It SOUNDS like the front but closer to the TT area than a wheel. Whats the best way to check BJ? Jack is up and check for too much play?

Dean_Fuller · 12-21-2008, 07:21 PM

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!

Loose front wheel bearing. Replaced with new bearings and a new used lock bolt and all is quite on the western front....really!

This is the old lock nut. You can see the shinny area directly across from the gap where the load was applied. The nut would not even screw back on it was so distorted.

Shows the inside wear on the front tires after 3 alignments....Maybe 3000 miles. Thought I would share the results in case others experience this in the future.

Danglerb · 12-21-2008, 10:06 PM

Kinda funny, I am looking at the diagram posted a few messages above and thinking, what is wrong with this guy thats the rear end, then I see I posted it. Yipes.

Trying again. Weird looking nut.

rhjames · rhjames's Garage

amazing that you didn't run the hub/tire/wheel right off the car......

now that you've seen this problem, check everything suspension related, and re-torque the whole car.

--Russ

BLK87S4 · BLK87S4's Garage

Now this is useful! I've had my car realigned three times and I'm still getting a little wear like what you're experiening/experienced. I'll check them out tomorrow. It'll be warmer then. :-) did you car pull?

rhjames · rhjames's Garage

if your car's front tires are wearing like the above pic, then you probably have been having alignments done wrong.

under no circumstances is the front end to be jacked up prior to alignment ---- unless you do the following:

the car must "settle" before alignment

1. the car must be pulled down, and held down for at least 15-30 minutes, to allow the front end to "settle".
2. or, the car must be driven for at least 100 miles to allow the front end to "settle".
3. or, you can loosen the lower control arm to frame attaching bolts, move the car back and forth a few times, tighten and re-torque the bolts, then do the alignment. (this too, allows for the front end to "settle")

if you do not do one of these things, the front end will remain jacked up, causing the toe to be out of alignment when making the adjustments, resulting in excessive wear on the inside edge of the front tires (as pictured above).

it's all about the front lower control arm bushings and their "twist".

--Russ

Dean_Fuller · 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rhjames

amazing that you didn't run the hub/tire/wheel right off the car......

now that you've seen this problem, check everything suspension related, and re-torque the whole car.

--Russ

Russ,
Checked all torqued bolts...after first alignment they too were loose. When asked how they torque alignment bolts at the shop....I was told they "just tighten them down. No measurement". GOOD GOD! These were about 50ft-lbs in stead of 88. Had them realign correctly at the proper specs. Their machine does not lift the suspension so that was not the problem. If the OS wheel bearing is loose...It makes sense to me that the tire would lean out under load and actually wobble with the correct maneuvers. I did a lot of reading and the "proper torque" on this U shaped nut can not be measured. The manual states to tighten until the thrust washer can barely be moved with a screw driver. WTF? How obscure is that??? In one write up the author states that is too loose and to go a tad farther when the washer can be moved.....This wheel nut is the oddest thing I have seen on this car yet. At any rate...its an area that looking at the design and specs...should be checked ever so often. Checking this would only take a few minutes. Tightening was done by loosening the hex bolt and tapping the nut with a flat screw driver and a ...hammer.

Dean_Fuller · 12-22-2008, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLK87S4

Now this is useful! I've had my car realigned three times and I'm still getting a little wear like what you're experiening/experienced. I'll check them out tomorrow. It'll be warmer then. :-) did you car pull?

My car didn't really pull but it would not track dead straight for long. Check the nut / thrust washer. If you can move the washer with a screw driver...IMHO its too loose.

When the car is jacked up and the wheel is still on see how much movement you get vertically? I could get definite detectable movement from mine...another sign the wheel bearings are bad or to loose.

I don't think this is something an alignment shop would notice but could negate what has been done. I'm assuming after tightning...the caster is probably off. Thoughts???

Dean_Fuller · 12-22-2008, 04:23 PM

Okay....I'm getting feedback from "the other list" that I have the new bearings too tight. I'm thinking about repacking them in the morning for a trip later in the day. Does anyone think thats a BAD idea? I tighten the nut not by hand but with a tap of a hammer. The thrust washer can not be moved by hand...so I guess thats too tight. How much 12 / 6 o'clock movement on the wheel is too much???

Danglerb · 12-22-2008, 06:53 PM

Careful who you listen to on a question like how do I torque my wheel bearings.