78 euro auto which one 82 US manual

[lfausty]

what about if its the first yr made, and ur a porsche collector from a historic stand point better to own??? or

78euro teal car/blk int auto 82 brown car / tan int manual

was told the euro 320 hp have to look up numbers on eng block, the 15 time looking for them been told and told but cant seem to find.

the 78 and 82 should have same hp what the 82 might have 1 more hp one more sec 0-60 on the 78 if the 78 is a what 219hp

82 just another yr in the making just a vin number. although 5 yrs newer maybe maybe not 5 yrs less wear and tear

78 brought from overseas New York probably not yearly driver. The 82 New York and Vermont probably not daily driver.

Who knows how old the people were what they did with them and how much maintenance done to them.


But if you had these two cars and were in same running condition GOOD

[SolReaver]

Note: this is ALL IMHO. If others disagree, I can understand.

A 78 euro (if it has original engine) does NOT put out anywhere near 300hp.
The 82 gets closer..but still falls short.

The way you can tell is by the engine code. It should be M28/02 for the 78
Which would mean that it was a 229 HP motor. Now, If it was NOT the original engine. It would be a non-original euro and may not of great interest to a collector. But hey, Some people like the euro body, you never know..


77-79 - 3-auto (Euro) 4.5L-16v M28/02 229 250 8.5:1 K-Jetronic 140 8 16 3197

Now, the 82
81-82 - 5-man (US) 4.5L-16v M28/15 220 265 9.0:1 L-Jetronic 143 7.5 15.5 3351
With an engine code of M28/15 (again if it is original) puts out 265.

300HP is not reached until the mid eighties. the 82 is only 1/2 second faster in the quarter mile, but that is assuming both of them are running in top shape, which is dubious after hearing your description of their current state and the former owners.

Collectors are very fussy, even amongst 928 owners and hardly ever are interested unless the car is in Pristine condition or has some uniqe or rare feature.

Without full documentation, the price of these cars plummets. Deferred maintenance is very expensive and a 928 that has been sitting for too long is going to need thousands in parts alone. ALso, If the cars have been sitting for too long you may not want to start them or drive them for fear of loosing a timing belt, which although it may not be catastrophic (opinions differ) it would certainly be expensive.

Please check that the upper ball joints are not aluminum. Do this with a magnet. If they are aluminum. You really want to think twice about driving the car. They need to be replaced with the later steel upper A arms (comes as a unit). Again, not cheap, but necessary for safetys sake. (per Wally)

FYI the engine code is located on the left, front of the engine (facing the car) and is stamped on the block just below the Cyl head. It may be dirty so clean it off and read the numbers.

Which would be better to own? That depends on the collector. People have different tastes. Check the Vin #'s and run a report to see if the car has any historic value or in the case of the 78, was one of the first built. Please Post the VIN #'s as well.

It is really hard to know without seeing the cars , so post a few pictures so that we can get a better idea of what you are talking about. However, If they have been sitting and do not have documentation, they are more likely "Project cars" or "parts cars" and do not fetch anywhere near the premium price. Closer to 500 IF they have parts that are in demand and even less if the vehicle is in poor shape. Both cars are 4.5 L 16V OBs Which have their good points and are beloved by some of the 928 community. However, as a rule, they do not fetch the premium prices of the larger 32V engined or even the larger 16V engined cars. Again, post a few pics so that we can see what you are talking about because so much depends upon condition. These are OK cars, they might be appealing to someone out there.

[Danglerb]

Keep in mind the sensible thing is to part them both and buy a good running 3 year old Honda.

78 has no panache excepting the first 50 or less cars. See this thread on number 64 going to the crusher, Early 78 5 spd headed for the SoCal crusher

Teal is prettier than brown, manual trumps auto for fun, but auto is cheaper to fix.

Euro S is 80+, motor ID M28/11 or 12. Pre 80 Euro motor is the same as US pre 80.

HP about the same, MPG better on82 Ljet, 5 spd way more frisky that AT.

78/79 have been the cheapest 928 by a LARGE amount for more than 25 years, generally most have seen harder times than other model years, but what counts are the cars you have.

928's are not a sensible pursuit, trying to think about them sensibly just confuses things. Which one do you feel like working on?

Which one would you rather not take a part off of even if the other one might need it?

Which one has the best chance of becoming a driver in time for spring 928 events?

Originally Posted by lfausty

what about if its the first yr made, and ur a porsche collector from a historic stand point better to own??? or

78euro teal car/blk int auto 82 brown car / tan int manual

was told the euro 320 hp have to look up numbers on eng block, the 15 time looking for them been told and told but cant seem to find.

the 78 and 82 should have same hp what the 82 might have 1 more hp one more sec 0-60 on the 78 if the 78 is a what 219hp

82 just another yr in the making just a vin number. although 5 yrs newer maybe maybe not 5 yrs less wear and tear

78 brought from overseas New York probably not yearly driver. The 82 New York and Vermont probably not daily driver.

Who knows how old the people were what they did with them and how much maintenance done to them.


But if you had these two cars and were in same running condition GOOD

[michael allman]

If a woman can have two why not a man

[785sp]

"Please check that the upper ball joints are not aluminum. Do this with a magnet. If they are aluminum. You really want to think twice about driving the car."

Hey, that's a little harsh. I drove on my 30 year old aluminum ball joints for three thousand miles before the right one exploded and ran me into the curb. That was fun.

[EuroShark]

https://www.928gt.com/default1.htm

The early euros have slightly different #'s accoriding to them.

[928 Bro]

What year did they fix the ball joint problem - I have an 1980 U.S. That I finally found and she's stripped down so this is the best time, I guess. Where can I got the best price?

[Jim Bailey 928]

The ball joint "problem " is the LOWER ball joint carrier (the bolt on part) NOT the uppers. The 16 valve engines especially the 4.5 do NOT bend valves. You need to change one of the two eccentric adjusters for caster and camber when doing the update. You of course must also do a front end alignment. The alloy carriers are reasonably safe IF you check them from time to time and make sure that the boot is not torn (no dirt grit inside)and the ball and socket is tight. And yes we at 928 International have the replacement parts......

[SolReaver]

Sorry guys, I thought it was an upper A arm ball joint thing. I was (incorrectly) paraphrasing something I heard Wally (all hail) say about the earlier ball joints. I believe he also said a replacement boot is off of the Audi 5000. As a failure can fold the wheel up (or down?) I guess I might have gotten carried away with the Mr. Safety thing. I was just picturing some poor guy not checking the joint or researching the issue and finally getting one of them to run and taking a hard corner while a bus full of nuns was coming the other way on a highway. I get a little carried away sometimes.

As for bending valves...yea, an OB probably wouldn't bend a valve, or it might, I am a little confused. The thing is I have seen bent valves on non int engines before. Again, I get carried away with the Mr. Safety thing. In any event an old timing belt is likely to settle in a bit and even if you don't smash valves you do run a risk of damaging a WP. Also when one of those things lets go you never really know what will happen. I will stand by the belief that it is probably better to just go ahead and do the belt rather than run it on borrowed time if for no other reason that it is easier to do the belts on a running engine and breakdowns are a pain.

Hey, Where are those pics and Numbers? Inquiring minds want to know.

[928 Bro]

So to make it simple this is just your typical ball joint replacement? What year to what year was this a problem?

[SolReaver]

Here is the link where he talks about it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iT-m1NIXVg8&feature=channel

Research the issue and write it up for me would ya?