Removing the threaded collar from old shocks
 

Hi,

I'm installing new shocks on the rear of my '82 S. Everything has gone smooth up to trying to remove the threaded collar from the old shocks. I expected to be able to tap it with a hammer to get it to slide up and off. I have it soaking in as much WD-40 as it would hold.

Any advice from others who have tackled this? Am I missing something?

I've just tapped it loose in the past, but the early ones I don't think come off.

Picts might help us.

PB Blaster....

You are using the tool for a motorcycle spring perch right?

N

Does it look like a 24oz ball peen hammer?

It would figure that I've got one where it doesn't come off. I wonder if a local machine shop could get them off for me? Or maybe, I'll just order up a couple of used ones - hat to spend another $50 if I don't need too.

PB huh? Motorcycle?

First diagram is the 78/82 style, second is 83/86. Looks the same to me, are you talking about the #2 part or the #3 part, and what have you smacked it with so far?

The old shock is junk? If so pound it off less gently.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1239299838.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1239299860.jpg

It's the number 2 part (heh, number 2 for sure). The shock is junk but I'd like to reuse the threaded collar. Will try bigger hammer method next and report back. Thanks for the assistance.

I used a drift to target the force, and buggered the bottom of the sleeve a bit, but it was not real nice anyway.

Drift is kind of like a punch, but flat on both ends.

I hope your new shocks are the kind the sleeve fits on. Bilsteins have the sleeve as part of the shock.

If you are talking about removing the threaded collar below the spring perch [as in my first picture, below] then you should be able to remove it with a motorcycle spring adjustment tool, second picture.

When I adjusted the ride height of my car a few years ago, I found it VERY difficult to move these perches. I suspect they are just stuck. PB Blaster is the ultimate penetrating oil; soak it and let it sit for a few days. The tool fits into the slots on the collar and makes it a lot easier to get it off.

Good luck!

N

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1239306588.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1239306644.jpg

I think OP is talking about the sleeve directly on the shock, not the perch.

Thanks for the detail! The 'nut' that adjusts the ride height turns easily. It's that threaded collar...
The new Boge's are ready to receive that collar once I get it removed.

Air chisel with a blunt tip.

Well, I gave up and just ordered 2 used collars from 928 Intl. It turns out that it was only the drivers side shock that was wasted, but who replaces just 1 shock, right? Anyway, it rides real nice now. I'm keeping the old passenger shock just in case I need one again. I pretty much destroyed the driver side shock trying to get that collar off. Air chisels are pretty destructive :cool:

Did this job recently and it looked impossible to remove the sleeves without damaging the soft aluminium. Also looked like they'd turned to stone and were in really grungy condition, so wasn't confident they'd work well on new shocks and part of reason for changing shocks was so I could adjust ride height to spec.

Like you I ordered used ones from 928 Intl which cleaned up very well and which I lubricated with Optimoly TA on threads and contact surface with adjuster. They move really silkily now.

As I had the 'new' sleeves as experiment tried to drift off the originals. Only succeeded in mashing up edge of the sleeve. Glad I went for replacement sleeves as you did.

This is a great post. Adding this one to my subscribed threads. How much did those used collars cost your from 928 Intl? Link? Part #?

did this many times... Use Map gas, heat up the shock, spray with PB Blaster so that the heat wicks the PB into the nooks, let cool redo several times. Last time with the shock hot spray then use brass punch etc... not a steel punch and tap off (tap around the collar not in 1 place so that it binds).

It may take about half hour for each, but works great.

The next time you need to remove "stuck" adjuster sleeves AND you are replacing the shocks all you need to do is use a hacksaw or metal band saw (cut-off wheel etc) and cut the old shock in half an inch above the adjuster sleeve. It is less messy if you hold it over a trach can as oil will come out of it. Be sure to wear eye protection, especially if it is a gas shock. BTW, they cut easiliy.

Once you cut the shock use some channel locks etc and bend in the outer body(tube) of the shock, it is thin metel and easy to bend. After you bend in the shock body the adjuster will fall off.

Yes, it's messy, takes, about 5 minutes (or less depending on cutting tool used) but it will save you buying new adjusters.

Be sure to clean the inside of the new adjuster very well before installing on new shock (remove corrosion , dirt).

DO NOT be tempted to grind out the inisde of the adjuster thinking it will make it easier the next time you need to take it off. If you do get it too "sloppy" on the new shock it could spin when you try to adjust the ride height later and will make you cuss.

Also one other shock tip. IF you are installing Koni shocks, you must always "glue" the front adjusters to the shock. The Koni shocks were originally designed before adjusters were an option on 928s and the shock body diameter is just slightly to small to give a good interferance fit on the adjuster and will typically spin later on when you try to adjust the ride height. We have tried for years to get Koni to retool these shocks, but the production quantity is too low for them to make this change (their words). All you need to do is use some RTV silicone, or something similar to "glue" the adjuster to the body. Basically anything that will give it just a little more friction interference so it won't spin when there is a load on it.