Cleaning Engine Without Removal

[EIPtuningR32]

i really need to clean the top part of my motor cause there is like a 1/2 inch thick covering of sand/mud on the driver side of the motor. i cant remove anything cause, obviously, the sand will go in whatever i removed. other than pulling the motor out and cleaning it, any idea of how to safely remove all that cRaP?

-Chuck

[blepkowski]

I would think a good shop vacuum cleaner and a compressed air gun (if you have one) would do the trick nicely.

[928 Bro]

Spray simple green and let it soak good, then pressure wash with a general nozzle low pressure. you are still going to trap stuff right on center of your engine under the throttle body.

[Mrmerlin]

I would vacuum out as much dirt as you can try agitating it with a paint stick then blow out any other dirt then depending on if you have a 5 speed wash the top of the engine with engine gunk. If you do have the 5 speed then you must figure out a way to cover the top of the engine/bellhousing where the top of the clutch release arm attaches.
If you dont then water will run down the arm into your TOB and it will be ruined in short order.
Remember that the throw out bearing is running at engine speed all the time

[Xlot]

Some locals use kerosene to wash their engines - on a cold engine, to avoid creating an ignitable mixture. Spray liberally with kerosene, then wash off with a hose.

Personally, I go with running the car until engine has warmed up - then foam with some ph-neutral degreaser, and rinse off with a pressure washer on low pressure. The pH neutral is important - aluminium blocks can corrode with hydroxide-based cleaners, which makes them look ugly, and can cause long-term issues. I use some citrus degreaser stuff, followed by "CT truck wash" - both are ph-neutral (and also safe for anodized wheels).

I prefer the warm-engine version as it helps dry things out to reduce the risk of corrosion in electrical connectors etc.

[EIPtuningR32]

thanks for all the tips guys, but i really dont think my engine bay, i.e. lines and fittings and what not, are in good enough nick to be pressure washing the motor. even water in there makes me quiver.

[devilinblack]

Purple Power For The Win. I used some simple green and a brush on mine with disappointing results. On the advice of a friend I picked up a bottle of the Purple Power from Wallyworld (much much cheaper than SG) and was nothing short of amazed at how well it's worked so far on the engine bay and the undercarriage. I'll never go back to SG for cleaning car parts.

[Danglerb]

Dirt may not just be on the outside, could already be inside the intake and other places. Try and start it, or even rotate the crank and the bores could be ruined. Pull the motor, tear it down and clean it.

[Landseer]

I use cheap bottle brushes from Northern Tool (wire bristles) and clean all those surfaces and crannies dry, with shop vac suction at the same time. I build a neck-down nozzle that ends with a piece of 5/8 or 3/4 radiator hose.

Then, I do similar work again with rags and shop vac, using WD 40. Downside is greasing up the shopvac hose, but its worth it. As I remove parts I am sure to stuff rags in to prevent any remaining sand and junk to get in. Its very hard to remove all the junk without some disassembly and cleaning on the fly. For me, WD has the right amount of solvent action with low volatility. I buy a hand pump sprayer and gallon can WD.

For the lower/underside I might use some brake cleaner, some WD, but the best is multiple applications of Gain 50/50 with water in a pressurized bug sprayer and soak and rinse.

[Normy]

What I've done in the past was to use paper towels to get as much of it up as I could. You'll be surprised how much you can get it you spend a bit of time. A shop vac with a small attachment can help too.

Next, use the Purple Power or Citrus Blast to clean as much as you can. I've used non-flammable brake parts cleaner to get the heavy grease and oil to cooperate- this stuff really works! For the coupe de gras, however, there is nothing like the good old fashioned garden hose without an attachment. Low water flow, just put your thumb on the end and gently spray the engine off. Use a towel to get up as much of the water as you can, and then start the engine. I had a mechanic tell me once that if you can't gently spray your engine down like this....then you are only one good rain shower away from being stranded on the side of the road. Engines are designed to get a little bit wet, so you shouldn't have a problem.

One thing to note, however, and it is 928 specific: There is the distinct possibility that after you start the engine, one or more spark plug wires will pop off the plugs. Water gets past the rubber and down around the spark plug, and when the engine warms, the water turns to steam and literally pops the wire right off. You might consider pulling each one off and drying the plug area after you do this. I spray my engine down each year and have never had the problem, but I've read about it on these forums.

N

[EIPtuningR32]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

Dirt may not just be on the outside, could already be inside the intake and other places. Try and start it, or even rotate the crank and the bores could be ruined. Pull the motor, tear it down and clean it.

nahh, the motor runs fine. its just, the sand isnt to appealing.

[EIPtuningR32]

Originally Posted by Normy

What I've done in the past was to use paper towels to get as much of it up as I could. You'll be surprised how much you can get it you spend a bit of time. A shop vac with a small attachment can help too.

Next, use the Purple Power or Citrus Blast to clean as much as you can. I've used non-flammable brake parts cleaner to get the heavy grease and oil to cooperate- this stuff really works! For the coupe de gras, however, there is nothing like the good old fashioned garden hose without an attachment. Low water flow, just put your thumb on the end and gently spray the engine off. Use a towel to get up as much of the water as you can, and then start the engine. I had a mechanic tell me once that if you can't gently spray your engine down like this....then you are only one good rain shower away from being stranded on the side of the road. Engines are designed to get a little bit wet, so you shouldn't have a problem.

One thing to note, however, and it is 928 specific: There is the distinct possibility that after you start the engine, one or more spark plug wires will pop off the plugs. Water gets past the rubber and down around the spark plug, and when the engine warms, the water turns to steam and literally pops the wire right off. You might consider pulling each one off and drying the plug area after you do this. I spray my engine down each year and have never had the problem, but I've read about it on these forums.

N

thanks Normy... i think i have arranged the suggestions from least intrusive, to most intrusive. im gonna start at the bottom of the list and work my way higher to see which one conquers my problem in the best and least aggressive way...

[lizard928s]

Pressure washer and super clean by Castol.