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Need Help on CIS A/F & Idle adjust
Ok, did a little cleaning on my Fuel Distributor (maybe I shouldn't have). Here is exactly what I did:
1: Removed all fuel lines from it. 2: remove distributor 3: turn over and bend tab holding plunger in place 4: remove plunger and clean carefully with carb cleaner 5: took piece of tubing and wrapped with clean cloth and sprayed carb cleaner on it and used this to clean inside plunger area. 6: put plunger back in and bent tab back. 7: removed fuel inlet fitting to expose fuel screen inside (cleaned with carb cleaner), it was a little dirty. 8: put all back together and put distributor back on and connected all fittings. 9: started up with a few cranks and let it warm up 10: took it out for a spin. Seemed like more power and more responsive. 11: seemed to be running lean now, low idle and in gear it will die (automatic) after fully warmed up 11: 1/2 turn counter on idle, which brought the idle up to 900, 1/4 turn richen and it seemed to idle smoother 12: test drive and it is still responsive but very lopey while in gear idling. This is where I stopped. Did I miss something? Any suggestions? |
Dancing with the Devil Leo ...
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Dang, not even a useful *peep*
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Well, I'm the last person to ask...........lol.
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i gave advice in the past , but no-one listenshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/shake.gif
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"BB500...have you adjusted the mixture yet?..the 3mm allan in front of the fuel dist'..its a little spring thingy...you might need to turn it up a little...take the air cleaner off...easier to do that way...clockwise rich...counterclock lean...it will fire with the startup cold valve (shot of fuel)...but be too lean to keep running...you'll need a long 3mm allan to do this...as you have to push the allan down to contact the adjuster...but dont push too hard, just hard enough to feel it grab the secondry adjuster inside ...get someone to help you...get them to startup the engine(keep starting)...till it will run with the adjustments...hope this helps you
__________________ John" |
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I did notice when I set the distributor back on, it kinda teetered, but I suspect this was the plunger sitting on the plate teeter. Idles at 900, but as soon as you put in gear, the idle is around 200 or so. Does this sound like vacuum leak somewhere? Idle adjust not right? I seem to notice more air noise from the plate area. |
Wow, are Raymond and I the only ones with CIS Injection on this Forum?
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If it was teetering, then the dist might not have been fully seated. You might've had it just up to the point where the o-ring at the base was making contact. When you started to torque things down with the 3 screws, if you didn't tighten them evenly, the fuel dist could've gone down at a slight angle and could've pinched the base o-ring, which would give you a vacuum leak and resulting lopey idle.
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Can you show me in a diagram somewhere that there was an O-Ring between the Distributor and Base? |
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Yup, it's a scary thing. The thing is, I didn't open the distributor, just the plunger and cylinder. This is why I am siding with rjm65 on this, it has to do with the mounting surfaces.
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Leo, guess what??? When I removed the center console, behind it was this block of vacuum lines. Looked like 10 green hoses and few other colors all together in a brick like thing.
Well, it wasn't even plugged in! You think this might have been what was causing my car not to run? Or is this just for the heating/cooling system? I don't know how this thing must have come undone, unless the person that butchered the stereo had his hands on this as well. |
Leo, if your f.d. is still off, you should throw mine on there to see if your car runs. I think the guys at autostebalhaus or whatever didn't even touch the car. Dude, you should stop by the new place so you can see my progress on the teardown.
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I would say that would be a nice source of a vacuum leak.
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Oh damn, that wasn't there when I pulled it off and put it on. Is this part of your O-Ring set? This is my vac leak for sure.
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MPDano..I have a bunch of those "o" rings if you need one. I believe it is 33mm ID x 2mm. I just rebuilt my fuel distributor because I had no output at cylinder #6. Runs better now without the miss but I still have some fine tuning to do. Just send me a PM
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They show the o-ring floating in space in the diagram, but it actually fits on the base of the fuel distributor. It sits just above the nut you removed to take the tab that keeps the plunger from falling out.
I have a bunch of these o-rings left over too, and since I'm just across town from you, you don't need to up David on his kind offer...... unless he wants to hand deliver it and it's his excuse to visit San Diego!SmileWavy |
Ok, I never removed that tab, I just bent it back so the plunger would drop out.
Here's an update. My car had PTSD (Post Stress Syndrome Disorder) when I last ran it a few days ago. Last night I went to start it since I like to make sure my CIS stays nice and clog free. Anyways, it started up fine, went to high idle per the AAV. Warmed up and idle went to about 900, I threw it in gear to see if it would start loping. Guess what? It held steady at 400. Put it back in Park, gave a few revs to see if I still had the hesitation, revs right up with no hesitation. Went for a test dive and she drove fine and even at stop lights, it help a nice even idle. Pulled back into the driveway and put it in Park, idle was a little high, but nothing I can't adjust down. My car is possessed. I am not touching my Fuel Distributor again. All is good. |
Idle speed is not a good indicator of correct A/F mixture. There are two ways to properly set the mixture, one running and one static. Running adjustment is with a warm engine. Then you turn the adjustment CCW until the engine starts to falter, mark that point then slowly turn CW until the engine falters and mark that point. Next turn the adjustment to a center point between the two marks. To be on the safe side I move the center point about 3 degrees rich (CW).
The static method requires two persons. Remove the fuel pump relay and jumper the 15 and 30 connections. Adjust the A/F mixture to lean then have the second person turn on the ignition (not cranking). When the pump is running slowly adjust the mixture to rich until you hear fuel going through the injectors. Once you hear the fuel, turn back (CCW) the adjustment until it stops, turn the key off and reinstall the relay. A word of caution. If you let too much fuel go throught the injectors it can hydrolock the engine. |
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