A/C Compressor and Drier R&R
 

Ok, got the Compressor that I got from Neil checked out by Eskimo A/C here in El Cajon, CA. Compressor is good to go. This weekend I am going to R&R the Compressor and Drier and new O-Rings I also got from 928 Intl. I do have a question about where those O-Rings I got go. I am assuming I will figure it out as the hoses are removed. Correct?

FYI, after I install the parts, I will then be taking it back to Eskimo A/C to do the Flush, Evac and Fill with R134.

Thanks again Neil for the Compressor, it cleaned up real well.

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take off the inlet ports on the compressor and verify the O rings look new. ( there should be 4 of them)
I would also wonder if they put oil in the compressor so its ready to go. SB about 5 oz.
Also i would take both of the flex lines that connect to the compressor to the hydro store and have new hoses crimped on, if you have originals its a safe bet they will leak and you will be doing this job in a few months.
Next to check is if you have rear air, remove the top cover for the AC unit and look around the front where the lines go in if it looks oily then the O rings need to be replaced / And/ or the rear evaporator is leaking from where the copper lines are crimped into the aluminum.
Also check under the car where the lines feed into under the passenger seat if the bottom of the car looks dirty around these fittings then these o rings are also leaking and should be replaced.

Remember dont over tighten the lines, usually just past snug is tight enough.

If they are doing a flush i would not connect the compressor to the lines and leave the receiver drier off till your done with the flush.
The receiver drier is the last thing thats connected prior to pulling a vacuum on the system, you should go through the whole system and replace the expansion valves and all of the other connections with new 134 safe rings, this also includes the fuel cooler

Leo, just did this -
10.6 mm O ring is both ends of long hose to evap coil.
14 mm is both ends of shorter hose.
7.5 mm is top of dryer to hose.

BTW, nice clean up on compressor.

Is this 5 O-Rings? If so, the 4 I got from 928 Intl is incomplete. Also, wrong sizes since they are all different sizes.

Ok, after doing some Recon on my R&R tomorrow. I released the pressure from the system and was looking at what will need to be removed. I see the Drier is very close to the Condensor, will anything need to be removed to get to the hoses and Drier?

Hey,

I tried to change out my o-rings from that same kit from Intl, Same problem, it did not look like enough to replace all of them and there was no way I could tell where they went.

The old rings I found that did not match those in the kit, I took to NAPA and matched there.

Worked for me.

Grrr. I think I may just mount the Compressor and Drier and have the AC Shop supply the O-Rings and hook the hoses up. It may be better unhooked anyways since they will need to flush the system.

Ok, the hard work is done and next step is to drop off at the AC Shop Monday or next weekend. Here's the pics of the Compressor and Drier installed. I really like the newer design Drier as it puts the High Side fitting up high and more accessible. I guess the hardest part was getting the Compressor hoses and O-Rings to play nice. They O-Rings just kept wanting to squeeze out and if that wasn't enough, just trying to thread the nut back on.

Also, before I put it all together, the AC Shop suggested that I blow out all the hoses using an air compressor to get any debris out.

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I also ended up using 3 or the 4 O-Rings sent by 928 Intl as they all fit perfectly. I just didn't use the last black one since the new Drier had a new green o-ring, so I used that one instead. So 4 new green o-rings were used in this project.

Dano you need to remove the 2 compressor line and have new rubber lines fitted, if you look at the rubber to hard line connection one has oil on it this indicates its leaking and the new refrigerant will leak.
Also you may have damaged the reciever drier it should be put in AFTER the lines are flushed and not exposed to outside air, it will absorb the moisture and this will cause the drier to fail

Too bad you didnt follow my post in thread #2, everything i wrote you didnt follow?????

Sorry bro. I will yank the lines tomorrow and have them redone. I just get on a roll when I actually get 928 time in between a 2 year old and nagging wife.

pull out the drier and plug it, let the shop thats filling the system install that part after they flush it, although you may have already damaged the drier.
Dano if you want more info you can call me PM me for my number

Damn, missed that part about keeping it plugged up. I was wondering why it was under pressure when I removed the fittings from the new one. I guess it's always a learning game.

did you pull the headers off of the compressor?? these are the 2 fittings that the hoses connect to.
The reason being that they may not have replaced these O rings there are 2 for each side

Yup, O-Rings inside were fine and looked new.

good Dano, the evaporator also needs cleaning see under where the drier was, the junk in the fins/
Spray some engine gunk in there and rinse it out with a hose plug off the lines so no water gets into the system

That my absolute thought on those fins. I did brush them off the best I could before putting the Drier on, but didn't want to run cleaner and water with open hoses when the Drier and Compressor was off. Thanks for all this advice as I really needed this. http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/i...ies/icon14.gif

Where is the Expansion Valve located?

I think its up by the windshield wipers.

the expansion valve is under the cowl panel under the hood just on the driver side of center, it is also next to the heater hoses.
Make sure that you have a good allen wrench to remove/loosen the bolts for it otherwise you will be drilling the heads off.
You should also consider removing the fuel cooler bracket so it will move

Ok, just to keep you all updated and to finish out this topic. I picked up my ride on Friday from the AC Shop (Eskimo A/C in El Cajon, CA. I gots the AC now!! It ended up being a little bit more than expected, but that was having them replace the Expansion Valve. They actually showed my old one and them actually had to cut it out. I guess the fitting to the valve wasn't budging, so the made multiple cuts in order to open the threaded area. I'll post pics of location of Expansion Valve for future use.

I replaced both hoses per Merlins advice. My new Drier was fine eventhough I released the pressure when I installed it. I guess I must have installed all the O-Rings correctly as I have no leaks.

Now, my final phase on this project is to sort out my Actuator leaks (diaphragms) and I should be golden. By default with no vacuum to Actuators, Cold Air goes to Door Vents and Windshield Defrost Vents.

I have to recommend if you are in need of AC work and in San Diego, Lee at Eskimo AC is very fair and his crew did a great job in getting this done in a timely manner.

Here's the pics of the Expansion Valve location.

Also, did a quick test of the AC on Freeway and streets. I temporarily blocked all the Defrost Vents till I get the Actuators figured out.

AC goes to Leg area and Door Vents. It was a pretty cool morning, but my legs felt like I had Frostbite (exaggeration). AC works great.

Although, I did get a small splash of water from the lower vent to legs when I was taking a sharp turn. Is something blocked as to why I was getting moisture inside the lower leg vents?

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In your pictures, it looks like the capilarry tube from the freeze switch is rubbing on the wiper linkage. The cap tube is copper, and needs to ay down out of the way of that linkage when it moves. No sharp bends or kinks in it. Copper will also get brittle, work-hardens when there's continuous vibration flexing, and will crak eventually. Makes it worthwhile securing the tube down if you can, so it will last a little longer.

It seems like it's too often little stupid stuff that haunts the cars. This one of those things. Easily avoidable, fortunately.

Thanks Dr Bob. Will do.

Wet foot and new carpet, not good, should be draining to the ground.

Exactly why asked if something is blocked. I could see some droplettes on the vent that points towards your right calf.

Drain hose probably plugged, left center of heater housing is a Y-shaped hose, 2 clamps runs thru firewall if yours is like my OB

Awesome! Ok, in order to access the Heater Housing, if I remove the Center Console, will it be accessible?

928.574.583.04
Item 23 in the diagram.


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How do you get to that hose?

Oops, just starting to re-read my thread. The draining issue resolved itself. No more drippy issues.