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INTAKE TUBE REMOVAL? 1984 s
1984 928S----Hey guys, I'm contemplating replacing the gaskets on my intake runner tubes. Seems to be leaking a bit. gassy residue.. It seems pretty straight forward..except the angles to get at some bolts..and of course the two odd rear bolts used to hold the airbox. ( must you use an open ended wrench?? Anyone got suggestions..proper tools? is this area prone to snapping bolts? i would appreciate any help! THNX!-J
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1985 944 |
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Are you talking about the gasket between the intake runner and the head or the rubber bellows between the runner and the intake body?
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Hey danglerb! Im talking about the runners where they meet the heads.....
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1985 944 |
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I would not expect those gaskets to leak, but if your going in there, plan on doing everything on the topside of the motor.
Keep track of what bolts etc went where, but I ended up replacing a lot of old junky bolts. |
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Petie3rd
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make sure to use compressed air to blow off all of the dirt particles first.
cover the intake inlet then go over the intake a few times, loose stones and other pieces will be blown all over the place this is better than having them fall into the cylinder
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thanx for the tips..Do i need a universal joint wrench or bendable type wrench to get at all the runner tube bolts? Also is there a trick to removing those pesky rear bolts that hold the airbox as well as secure the intake runner? I also have gaskets for the cam tower covers..thinking of replacing those gaskets and painting the covers.Some say easy job..some say painful LOL!-J
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I like a short socket on a wobble extension for some.
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A 10 inch socket wrench extension should do it. I did this job a few years ago. For the bolts that hold the airbox, you'll need an open-end wrench.
You'll probably have trouble getting the rubber connectors at the spider "body" to come off. These are the black rubber sections with screw clamps that are at the top of the "legs". If I were you, I would replace these if they are at all hard. [some people have been known to have the intake powder coated at this point] WYAIT, it would be a good idea to replace all the various vacuum hoses and clean out the valley. Another idea? Since you are going to be pulling the fuel rails, why not send out the injectors to be cleaned and flow matched? Putting it back together: Get the bolts good and tight when you screw them back down, but do remember that you have a grade-8 bolt [very hard and strong] that is being screwed into an alloy head [somewhat soft]. Don't over torque! Damn, why did that sound kind of sexual? Good luck! N Last edited by Normy; 12-31-2009 at 06:35 PM.. |
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thanx again for the tips! ive already been through the"valley" and cleared that out...replaced all working vacum lines w/ silicone and replaced the connecting "boots" on the "spider" air distributor w/ silicone as well. All injectors have been rplaced and new electrical connectors added! ****** in Miami has these rebuilt for cheap! i will hit this project as soon as i recieve a "new" used 1984 air distibutor body or"spider" body i got off ebay for $40. i will use this distributor for modification to match the throttle body from an 85'. which is 3-1/2" O.D. compared to stock 2-1/2" !! ive already been running w/a 3-1/2" OD MAF conversion for a year...im now ready to open the air flow up more! So once the newer air distributor is modified and painted and connected to the 85' throttle body i will replace all tube gaskets and button it all up with new mods and hope it runs!LOL-J
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YES that is a good idea...i was under the assumption that they will not properly align w/ US heads? I beleive im taking it as far as possible without completeley changing to a euro top end. I know from looking inside of the tubes that they are rough from sand casting..if they could be polished inside that would probably help too!--J
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Polishing is old school, all it does is make money flow from your wallet faster, not air through tubes which seems to like a pebbly surface.
Euro intake can go on a US head, but the port sizes won't match, and the heads will largely limit the flow. I wouldn't bother until you are ready for all three parts, cams, heads, and intake. |
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