Setting the cams question
 

In a week or so, I will have all my parts and hopefully the weather will be over freezing so I can begin assembly.
Now, I set the engine at 4/5 mark, I can then install cams without worrying about hitting the valves. Can I then set the cams to the marks and roll engine the little more to TDC and install the belt? A lot of time and money in these heads and I do not want to bend any valves. All new rollers and the tensioner has been completely rebuilt as well as all new engine seals.
Any input will help
Fred.

Cool on your process except you need to install the belt with cams and crank all at -45º before you roll the crank up to TDC. Doing the belt after the cranks is rolled to TDC means that there may be valves open as at least two of the cylinders have pistons coming up to the tops of their bores.

The WSM method of installing the belt before moving the crank off of -45º is valid, regardless of whethjer the cams have been removed. Follow this method (easy...) and you will be very safe.

But how can I set the cams at 45? That is my dilemma. They are not marked at 45.

Fred this is pretty easy just put each cam pulley notch about 4 to 5 teeth before the cut in the cam housing, that will get get you very close if not perfect then install the belt then turn to TDC and check your work and tension of the belt

Thanks merlin, that is what I will try. I have been reading the manual but it does not help.

Count the number of cam gear teeth and divide by sixteen. (one eighth of a crank rotation is 45º, cams turn at half of crank speed) That's how many teeth you need to adjust from the TDC mark on the cams.

If you don't have access to one of PorKen's cam timing tools, time to buy or borow one to get the actual cam timing perfect. I don't remember where Tuckerton is; I do know that the shore patrol group has one in their arsenal. Find Mike Frye here or on RL and he may be able to take care of you.