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My 86.5 Rebuild Thread
Might as well start this thread. No pics yet, still cleaning out the garage to make room for the cherry picker and stuff. Anyway here is where I stand.....
The chassis 928 WorldWide is sending me is red. Not happening :) !!!! I'm looking at color chips but last night I had an idea. I think I may use a new Porsche color. Thinking about the 911 nordic gold or panamera yachting blue matallic to be honest but I didn't look that hard. Either way I'm looking to Mason for some aluminum polishing advice because I intend to keep the old color sceme or a very close variation. I'm thinking headers and for sure an x-pipe. Since I'll have the car apart I might as well. Eventually going with a twin screw SC so I might as well prep the exhaust for it. Who's should I use? More to come. This thread will get long but will have a bunch of pics of my rebuild. |
for the headers you have to choose one or the other an X pipe wont fit onto headers.
Carl makes a headers to header pipe IIRC is also contains an X pipe type of connection as well A color change is a huge undertaking but i would guess that you know that already. Goodluck with your project Ahh a color page chart is here www.landsharkoz.com click on the colors link Check out under the reds for the color on the bottom left of the color chart, this is an awesome color if its applied correctly you wont see another car like it and it stays in the red family Zyclamrot Metallic Cyclamen Red Metallic I know its not my car, but this would be the color I would make if i was going for a color change to a red base |
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This makes me so happy... Now I had a good weekend. Carl- they burned me at the stake when I did that to the car. I'm very glad that you saw the art there... I had a feeling someone someday would when they were joking about using hoods as snow sleds....lol. RIGHT ON. Pick a color first. The polishing happens first, then you mask for any pattern you want and shoot it..... I used chemical stripper x 2 or 3 gallons,,, then the sander with 600, 800, 1000, 1500, then 2000. THEN I buffed it with metal polishes (several) and a cloth shag wheel. You're a ways away- but I'm glad to help you getting the hard stuff done first.... the paint is the easy part ;) GOOD LUCK.... lets see what ya got bro. As you build this I'm building one too- but it's not a street car. If you don't mind, I would like to use the color you choose, so long as I don't hate it of course... and polishing the hood and fenders same as you , or us I should say ;) |
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This is what I was looking at for headers and an x-pipe. Quote:
http://www.landsharkoz.com/images/clrimg/82x-zyclamrotmet90-mwhite01.jpg Since Mason is sending me a bare chassis the color change will be easy. Won't even have to get out the masking tape. Sand and shoot. :) Quote:
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Go to Home - Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG to view the two porsche colors. The blue is a Panamara color and the orange is a 911 color. Anyway, the swap should be pretty easy for me. Hardest part will be dropping the motor into the freshly painted engine bay. When you get the price together let me know. Just got taxes back. Timing is good. Will that be a rolling chassis by the way? Starting to wonder if i'll need a forklift :) Still fighting with the insurance. I'll post on the other thread when i know anything. |
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I don't mind. take a look at potential colors. |
SRSLY the color I posted will look great on an OB model, the Orange also looks good but the the Cyclamen red will pop especially with the polished hood and fenders
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That red is sweet....I'm more of a blue guy myself... but I don't mind. whatever you choose Carl, I'm copying.
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here is a link to an orange color similar to the gold color you mentioned
another link to a orange Euro 928 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gY64WJYimc |
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I have seen this car in person a few times, it is an outstanding color and it flips all over the place on shading and effect it can look like a black cherry to a sparkling deep black cherry as is evidenced by the picture taken at the rear of the car
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Ok I love the color too. What are the odds we on the street can get factory-like results... And who is the ideal paint mfg.
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Maybe I should have called the thread "What color do Mason and I paint our projects" So I'm out on the orange. Thanks for the link Stan. I just don't see the orange and the polished aluminum working well together. I really like the maroon. Kinof leaning that way. Mason, any reason I can't do a couple of clear coats on the hood and fenders to prevent the corosion problem? Does that white toyota in the back have your logo on it? |
the clear may not stick as your painting a surface that is corroded but you could try it .
I think a good wax job will keep the metal shiny without too much damage to the metal just keep the bird soop off the metal. You can get Glasurit for the BC/CC I would suggest that you use a medium build clear figure about 3 coats of clear and lots of wetsanding and buffing. Heck try painting a spare piece of aluminum with the clear, and see how it holds up if left in the sun |
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At certain angles in does look a little blue-er but, I can visualize the mix with the polished hood and it's going to pop very red against the silver. I'm getting a little excited. :) |
actually in the sun the color is a dark black cherry similar to the first picture except where the light is directly reflecting off the paint where it turns more maroon/cherry
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That's a good idea with the test piece. I just happen to have a back yard full of crunched but polished aluminum. (Sorry Mason) I don't see any reason it wouldn't stick. Even after polishing it should still be pretty porus. |
well when you polish aluminum you are infact removing a layer of corrosion and the pores fill up with the polish compound, this is why the paint coating wont stick, unless you get the surface really clean like i said its worth a try to coat a used piece and see how the clear holds up
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Carl,
I love the color- good call. As for clear coat, I didn't clear because I like the way it looks BARE. BUT, it only looks the way I like it after a fresh polish- which takes less than an hour with the high speed buffer. NOW, if it sits inside, you think- I'll clean it and leave it inside and it won't tarnish. Nada, it still looses the luster. I tried teflon- it worked pretty well. The only thing I can think of that will work solid without the hassle of urethane pealing off when you least desire that to happen is: POWDER COATED CLEAR. Someone needs to be proficient at it and have a BIG oven. The finish from clear powder coat is probably like glass baked over the bare polish.... dig it? Ever seen a clear powder coated machined wheel lip? BUTTER BABY! Now remember- I have no idea if clear spray is a bad idea or not. Testing it as Stan mentions is a fantastic idea. Buy a pint and give a whirl. Then have yourself a pint while it cures :) Cheap is good (especially for us 928 guys- well the normal ones anyway, that is- the ones who realize what we're dealing with here, and don't think their car is worth what it cost new). You make it happen, and get a good result.... I'll be thrilled. I would suggest making sure that you prep the hell out of bare metal, make sure nothing is left that makes the urethane not stick. Might be best to just POLISH WITH 3000 grit paper for final prep, no media like paste or metal polish.... that way the spray is sticking DIRECTLY to the aluminum, with no contamination. Use a chemical prep thats real agressive before spray... I guess. I'm no professional painter ;/ So maybe sand polish with liquid sand again WET with 3000 grit, and spray!!! COOL MAN. |
Yeah man that's my truck in the background- but it's not a Toyota ;) My gas pedal doesn't stick....lol
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