Well, bad cap will do it. Guess you replaced rotor but not cap before.

Still, a few pictures of your distributor would be helpful with and without cap, staged at TDC.

Well it wasn't the distributor cap...New cap, same problem

Adjusted the track on the AFM and same issues --

Car is now up on 4 jack stands -noooo haven't driven it in soooo long
Soon I'll have to drain the tank :eek:


Funny how life gets in the way and all of a sudden a month is gone

SUCKS!

I'll find a 27mm socket and get her to tdc

Leaking like the pig it is -I think I have head gasket in my future as well.

Yesterday I forgot to re-connect the AFM after I had changed the plugs. The car ran, but very badly, slowly the RPMs dropped until it finally died.

I know you said you worked with your AFM, but what kind of shape is your connector in? The connector jack?

On newer cars, the ECU stores data, and if it's stored "fault" data, it may cause the car to operate in limp-home mode, though the offending part may be working correctly again. To clear out the data in a hurry, disconnect the positive lead to the battery and hold it to ground for at least twenty seconds. This will clear the ECU of it's memory, and will allow the car to operate normally. It's worked for me a couple of times.

I wonder if this trick could help your car? I don't know how much storage happens in these old cars, but it may be worth a shot.

Interesting thought on the jetronic - this worked for you on your 928?? The connector is fine and I peeled back the boot to verify.

Sorry, I should've said it's worked for me on my two other cars: a Volvo XC70 and Isuzu Trooper.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1273958678.jpg

Does the rotor look right for tdc?

black soot - 2000rpm dies like its choking off, mine was muffler clogged , theres baffle/honeycombs in there broken/rusted (mice nests) cant expel the exhausts and backs up , cant breath slowing dies after couple seconds.

engine compartment under intake theres two fuel pressure regulators each side and pass side a damper under the one fp reg , it has a screen/filter black soot clogging it? theres a short hose (broken?) clamped on damper connecting to long rod going down through compartment to cat connected with a checkvalve?. 02 sensor there?

not funny the muffler will go cherry red and extreme heat

Ohh your doing/done some awesome work !! just think for everything you do thinking its a cure for the issue at hand your that much further ruling out for another millionth issue to come. lol. SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY FIRST

Hey Ifausty,

I would go with the clogged cat but when I unplug my AFM connector

my car will run real crappy, plug the AFM in and it'll briefly idle -then die

Maybe I'll just cut off the cat and see -neighbors will understand -it's a porscha - lol

By the way -
that 27mm socket was 8$ at Lowes

Couldn't find it at my autozone/advance/sears fwiw

Run Right -
 

Hey Tempermental, Has your car ever run correctly or is this the first step in a "put it back on the road" project ? Troubleshooting can be very different between 1) working on a 928 that has sat up for many years 2) trying to out guess the tinkering of a previous owner 3) repairing a formerly fine running vehicle. Unless there has been some attempt at a timing belt change - this really sounds like a fueling issue –

Before replacing any additional parts, connect up a fuel system gauge to monitor the run pressures. Something as simple as an unregulated (extremely high) pump pressure can sometimes mask many confusing symptoms.

Good Luck, Michael :)

Rotor is pointing about 180 from TDC. Probably just have to rotate crank 360. You didn't remove distributor during intake job, right? If you did, or did any timing belt work, then I would also remove the covers and check timing mark alignment on both gears. If not, maybe assume its ok.

To remove intake, I had to loosen and rotate my distributor, just within the span of timing adjustment rotation. Did you? If so, try centering within its travel.

Do you have wires sequenced correctly?
Cylinder numbering:

4 8 Rear pair
3 7
2 6
1 5 Frontmost pair


Is Temp2 installed with no teflon tape or sealant? It needs to be grounded to block.

Did electronics ground get cleaned (passenger side cam cover area)?

Did you try a double jumper wire on the ignition relay? 30 to 87 to 87a? It is possible to get really bad running or no running if that relay is bad. Making a three-ended jumper wire is the way to bypass it.

Do you have a noid light? If any of the 8 injector connectors have fraying and intermittent shorting, it takes them all out. By substituting a noid light at any one of the injecto plugs (pick an easy one) and trying to start the car, you will essentially be checking the integrity of all of the connectors. The noid light will strobe as if it were an injector firing.

Similarly, your wires within your AFM plug need to have integrity. I've not had a bad one, but others have, as they are very subjected to the twisting and manipulation of mechanics.

The plugged cat is interesting. You could drop the pipes and turn them on end to shake it out if its broken possibly. You could try also blowing a shop vac through seeing if it passes air with ease.

Is there any fuel passing into the vac lines on the regulators or dampner? If so, that would indicate a bad unit. The vac is applied only as a safety/leak collection method, BTW.


I'd be jumping that AFM / injection relay very early in working through the above list, BTW.
And the ECU has zero learning, so that's not a factor.

Hey Michael, the car new to me 09/09 -had a balljoint failure 2/10 -figured I'd replace gas lines to avoid a car ba que and wyait, cleaned up and replaced vac lines
-so #3 formerly OK running vehicle that needs a bigger bank account

--Landseer
My bosch distr cap 0 290 004 502 has the numbering on it
4 8
5 1
6 3
2 7
-my replacement cap(CHEAPO) doesn't have numbering on it
if I try to wire it up with your #'s - my 6 wire doesn't reach -not to say I have them right to begin with --
Can we confirm 4 8, 3 7, 2 6, 1 5? <------It is ! I think my cap is for a mercedes

God damn -i think this is it -http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1274035481.jpg

We'll see

I gave cylinder positions, not cap sequence.
Passenger bank of the ENGINE is numbered 1-2-3-4, with 1 closest to radiator.
Drivers bank is 5-6-7-8 with 5 closest to radiator.

Cap sequence appears correct (firing order), but that's not how it should be positioned on your car. On your car, 1, TDC, is not dead towards the radiator, but fairly close.

You have the wrong cap or a badly out of place distributor.

Here's position of the distributor cap, with the screwdriver indicating where #1 wire attaches.
From there, looking down on the cap, the firing order is clockwise progressing around from 1.

Hope this helps solve it. I think you are very close. It should start and run immediately when you get it all sequenced correctly.
__________________http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1274037795.jpg

My pic probably wasn't tdc for cyl 1 so sorry about that -gotta figure that out

printing up your suggestions and sharkskins ign troubleshooting
well at least I posted a nice pic of my new porsche crest

Take your time, you know it will run well when sequenced correctly, post pictures / ask questions, we have running cars here to compare against.

Why no O2 sensor, its a needed part with Ljet.

My O2 sensor is also disconnected. Car runs real strange with it plugged in.