Warm under window switches

[harborman]

I have noticed it can feel pretty warm if I place my hand on the widow and sun roof switch area of the shifter console, especially if I have been on the road for sometime. Has anyone else noticed this?

[Opelotus]

I do recall noticing a bit of heat when I pulled up my shift boot, but other than that, I don't remember the switches ever getting warm. IIRC the catalytic converter is almost directly beneath that area, but there should be a large foam insulation piece and a heat shield between it and the tunnel. Could you be missing either one of these?

[Maleficio]

Mine does the exact same thing. I've heard the big foam block under the console, over the TT, can degrade, split apart, and allow heat into the cabin through the shifter port.

[Maleficio]

In fact, I think this excessive heat is what shortens the life span of the console switches.

[Mrmerlin]

extra heat is usually a sign of motor mount failre, the mount let the engine TT fall down this pulls the foam dow as well and creates a way for hot air to enter the shifter area if you keep the windows up less hot air will be drawn through the shifter

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

extra heat is usually a sign of motor mount failre, the mount let the engine TT fall down this pulls the foam dow as well and creates a way for hot air to enter the shifter area if you keep the windows up less hot air will be drawn through the shifter

I guess I will have to look under the car and check this out. Thanks all!

[firefighter7128]

I actually have a breeze that comes from this area. very hot too. post your fix-it if you find one.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by firefighter7128

I actually have a breeze that comes from this area. very hot too. post your fix-it if you find one.

All I can see so far is the heat shield above the cat converter and it seems fine. I may have to try and look above it. The car had been in storage for 19 years and maybe some animal packed something in there, otherwise the underside looks really clean and new.

[Opelotus]

I think the foam insulation piece is best viewed with the heat shield removed.
You may be able to drop the heat shield without removing the catalytic converter.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Opelotus

I think the foam insulation piece is best viewed with the heat shield removed.
You may be able to drop the heat shield without removing the catalytic converter.

It looks like the heat shield has some kind of insulation on top of it and is part of it. I was under the car yesterday doing an oil change but did not see anything that looked out of place. Car just turned 41,400 miles. I put Rotilla 15 w 40 in it this time, now on sale at Advanced Auto for $10/gal.

[BReyes]

Did you see your motor mounts settle?

Regards,

[harborman]

Originally Posted by BReyes

Did you see your motor mounts settle?

Regards,

The Mounts seem fine!

[Maleficio]

I can feel heat shooting straight up through my auto-shifter base, so I'm going to attack from the top end with spray foam or the like.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Maleficio

I can feel heat shooting straight up through my auto-shifter base, so I'm going to attack from the top end with spray foam or the like.

keep us updated on how it worked.

[Mrmerlin]

I wouldnt use any type of spray foam, your likely to have a fire hazard. remember the TT moves around so a flexible type of foam is required. I have seen where POs have remove the heat shield and then stuffed foam up along the sides of the TT and around the shifter this usually helps.
If your oil pan is close to flush with bottom of the oil pan then the MMs are good

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

I wouldnt use any type of spray foam, your likely to have a fire hazard. remember the TT moves around so a flexible type of foam is required. I have seen where POs have remove the heat shield and then stuffed foam up along the sides of the TT and around the shifter this usually helps.
If your oil pan is close to flush with bottom of the oil pan then the MMs are good

Not sure what you meant: "If your oil pan is close to flush with bottom of the oil pan then the MMs are good"

[Mrmerlin]

with good MMs the bottom of the oil pan will be very close to the same level as the bottom of the crossmember,
if its below the bolts then its a good chance the MMs are sagging and need to be replaced. if you use the Rock auto mounts then add 2 large diameter fender washers for an adittional 3mm of lift to each side these would go on the tops of the new mounts.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

with good MMs the bottom of the oil pan will be very close to the same level as the bottom of the crossmember,
if its below the bolts then its a good chance the MMs are sagging and need to be replaced. if you use the Rock auto mounts then add 2 large diameter fender washers for an adittional 3mm of lift to each side these would go on the tops of the new mounts.

Looks like mine is in line with the level of the cross member.

[BReyes]

Temps have been very warm, or possibly a torn rubber boot under the handle, or do micro cracks in the sound deadening cause leaks. I have also found original asbestos type fabric under there simialr to the (aftermarket) tape wrapping my exhaust pipes.

Regards,

[Maleficio]

I had a good look at the foam cover over the TT. It looks fine from below, don't know if it's split on top. I'm thinking I can get away with spraying some foam up in there that will expand and fill in the cracks. Heat resistance is what I need to worry about, though.

MAXFILL Expanding Sealant - Fills large holes and gaps - Spray Foam Insulation