http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295541785.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295541826.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1295541855.jpg

More work to do, but I am generally pleased with the progress...sorry about the thread drift....

Is that the dash I sold you this summer in the car above? What a world of difference. Who did the re-leather?

Great job & nice work!

-Sorry for the thread hijack-

Yes, that would be the dash. (check out my post #20) But I used one of the plastic covers on it after stripping off the last leather covering. Did you realize it already had 2 leather coverings on it? By the way, I suspect the plastic is a mistake given the summer temps in Texas, but I wanted to get the car on the road and make certain it was worth the cost of a proper dash covering ultimately. Not there yet, like many of these, many things yet to resolve, the autobox (NOS) shifts very hard (like no vac) so I am now considering options for that.....

Is there any way to test the speedometer before I get all this back together? I would hate to do all this work only to find out it doesn't work.....

Found an interesting un-used circuit for "Turn signal (trailer)" while testing the circuits on the board......anyone have this as an option?????

You could do a solid wire conversion as I did... messy and time consuming but effective, cheap, and much easier to repair.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1296343711.jpg

Looks good.


Leather dashes are regular vinyl-covered dashes that are covered in leather. Yours had plastic, leather and leather?

I hate when you post this.. it makes me feels totally inadequate.:) nice work, I'm jealous

I came across another person who had done this and was strongly considering it. I was even looking around for the connectors. Where did you get them?? What gauge wire did you use?

Same fried wire
 

I have the same fried line on my 80 euro printed circuit. It goes to masse (ground) on the lower right connector. If the connector positions were as follows when looking from driver seat at bottom right pod connector:
IXIIXIIIIIII in the 2nd and 5th position brown wires and the 2nd position goes up the printed circuit card from MASSE and burned in half on Circuit.

I have replaced my printed circuit but do not want to fry the line again. Can anyone please help? I noticed the dash light potentiometer double blue / black wires were on the high side and the black wire was closest to the mount, which appears backwards of all pics I see. I have since reversed this since the 1st burned line.

There is also a push button just to the right of the dash light potentiometer, reset odo I think. How are those wires supposed to connect please.

I believe you are describing the push button is for the intensive washer if wires are blk/vi and blk; blk goes to the 15 side if labeled.

Thank you for responding. Hi, I have two black push buttons and two potentiometers.

Left Side is dash dimmer, then there is a button just next. That is the one I am referring to. I think that one is the trip reset. I will certainly check 15 and verify black is going there.

Right Side of steering wheel under pod, I have wiper frequency pot and another black push button. Is that one the pot for intensive washer?

What was awful is that I had full lights and guages for 10 secs, then the sizzle on the same pic on page one of this thread.

Chris, sorry I overlooked your question.....it appeared to be 2 layers of leather over plastic...I peeled off the top layer of leather. the under layer was much thinner than the top layer, but it was nicely glued down and tight in most places and only required a bit of dressing down the corners to get the cover to fit. I did not pay a great deal of attention to the construction. I know I will regret the plastic cover later, but for now the car looks presentable at about 10% of the cost of doing it "right". If or when I take off the plastic cover I will pay more attention to what is left under it...and if it is truely plastic or leather....whatever it is, it was different than my other '84 and '81 dashes...

Sorry, I ref'd the right switch for stated wires. In the Owners Manual there is no button on the under left to the right of the POD illumination control. I had a toggle (SPST) switch where you indicate and could not trace it to anything it is still there...i'll probably turn it into a cutoff switch??

Third down on left face of the POD is mileage reset.

Thanks JhwShark. Do you know how the left light dimming switch is to be wired for the Blue / Blk wires and the black wire? I will include a pic of my left pod switch on the 80 Euro.

jtapps...we don't want to hijack a thread

Please start a new thread with your subject and the pic's so we can help.

Alright, will do. Thanks

open circuit
 

Ok, think I found some of the problem. There does not seem to be continuity through the rivets to the posts that go into the speedometer. Seems to be a solid circuit board riveted to the flex board. Out of the four, one is not used, one receives the pulse from the sensor, one is power and one is ground. So far the ground and power have no continuity back to the connectors. I'm thinking there are issues with the rivets. Also, looks like someone was in here before to replace the motor and a resistor. I did move the motor and the odometers spins, so no broken gear. Can I just solder these?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297656590.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1297656628.jpg

update
 

I have now soldered the rivets and have good continuity from the pins that go through to the speedometer to the plugs. I soldered both sides of the rivet, since I found I still had problems on the top side.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298255490.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298255529.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1298255563.jpg

This is just one of the issues I found so far.

Forgot to mention that the long posts appear to have been soldered by someone before me