Landseer,
I owe you several beers at this point. I have these 80 US docs *I believe*, I will compare them to make sure mine match.

Also, On the left snippet of the left cluster section you posted, I see for say "instrument cluster illumination" 12R means it goes to the Right connector position 12.

But how to you read the roman numeral / # portion such at XI/1? I think it means to go to section XI of the document and what about the 1? (It is not referring to relays at all is it)

And curious what is the q5 for on every wire? Is q5 the wire type / size?

At least the 928gt.com fuse / relay panel for 80 makes mention of the Euro in red optional spots. As for the flow diagrams, I will follow the US until further notice.

The XI/1 diagram reference point = section XI using number 1 sheet locater (numbers along the bottom of the page (1-n left to right) to find the continuity. You will observe a corresponding reference to the point you came from...

q5 is not what is there it is 0,5 (on DIN charts = 0.5 in SAE) wire dimension not gauge and not in inches

fyi, all the Porsche (and most if not all European) diagrams use DIN references

Thanks, JhwShark

Thanks for the guidance, I imagine the 0,5 is .5mm since , replaces . in Europe. Otherwise I will read up on DIN. On a Sunday I may have luck at NAPA for metric wire.

Yes, NAPA will have it or can get it; I got all I needed for my re-wire.

Do not use Home Stores wires they usually are not rated for auto/marine applications

Ok, going to get some various colors if possible

Thanks

In US wire will be in gauge typically not in. or mm.

Eagle Day is one source of this euro-wire for cars. I think its teflon coated like some instrumentation wiring,but not sure.

The diagrams I posted were to try to get the dialogue continued on a more specific plane with multiple people here.

There are burns / melts on at least 5 wires from the F connector path towards the console and instrument panel. There were also deep ones going into the pod area on the Middle / Right cluster connectors on many red, black, and blk/bl ones. I removed the black wrapping from nearly all wires from CE to console and to Pod area. New harness would be great, but not very likely.

ABCD looked ok, it was mainly the F group with all the burning. I even found a 928 618 102 if I recall, relay behind the right console panel where the passengers left knee is. I found a two pin connector loose in space there as well with a white wire and a blk / blue wire. This blk / blue wire also connected to J5 and ground circuit.

I really cleaned the grounds in passenger footwell nicely. Mirror shine with rubber dremel, then contact cleaner and dilectric. They do not seem to be the problem, even with the CE panel removed, and burned wires separated, I can Touch blue / black wires then touch ground points and get continuity. Next I will cut these blk / bl wires and run new wire where I can as well as the thick red wires that have burns. I still cannot find where the blk / bl is touching ground.

The fact that the higher load wires were melted into the blk /blue wires under the cluster is probably why the copper trace burned on the back of the printed circuit. Maybe the ground short alone wouldn't have done it.

The blue/blk and blk wires may be in the same circuit by design.

For instance, the black wire that leads to the dash light potentiometer turns to blue/blk downstream of the potentiometer. Meanhwile, that black wire splits and feeds the lights in the heater control and the A/C button.

But you've got the right process going now!!!!!

Wait as long as you can to cut, but cut when you have to.

Also, if you can find a harness portion from a 928 or 944 and chop a piece out, it can be the only source of good wire that you need --- solder splice and shrink --- allows you to make the repair cleanly using the same style/color wire. Just a thought --- sometimes it works for me.

They sell a silicon harness wrap.
Also, you can buy a stretchy-thick wire wrap at Lowes/Homedepot near the electrical tape.
Just alternatives for re-wrapping.
You can also buy a booklet of stick-on wire numbers to help you sort-out the console wires.


Radio-installs and cigt lighter/light issues are huge contributors to wire carnage.

Thanks for the advice, I know cut feels so final, so I better have a plan.
I found a few conversions for wire but I still do not know if it is cross section in mm vs
mm2 that I need to choose. In other words there are two possible values for .5 in diameter or cross section mm2 equals two different guage sizes.

Here is one Cross-sectional area to diameter conversion circle intersection electric cable formula wire diameter and wiring and calculation cross section AGW American Wire Gauge area of a wire formula conductivity resistivity - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin

The other is here from the site you referred me to it takes only mm2: Wire Size Conversion Chart

I went to NAPA and they only had standard guage wiring in this Bellevue, WA store.
None are perfect matches of course.

The wires I am dealing with rance from 0,5, 1,0, to 1,5 in mm2 or diameter. I see a few harness parts out there, but not necessarily from the 12pin, mostly newer 14 pin. If I can at least get the same wire sizes I think your idea is better to find any harness and use lengths from there.

I would like to wrap these again once working for their protection and for mine.

The first link I posted has some nice calculators. For Diameter calculation I get 14, 18 and 24 guage wire when using the converter for diameter. This is fairly accurate if it is the correct wire measurement.

If we go the cross-section mm2 measurement as opposed to diameter above, the results are not as compatible.

With the Cross section mm2 I get closter to 14 , 16, and 20 for the three sizes 1.5 , 1.0 and .5 but they do no match up as well.

If you don't look at this link none of the above will make sense to many people.

sehttp://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-cross-section.htm

When a car add says "this car needs nothing" can also means they haven't looked at anything and it gets them from A to B. Bringing a screwdriver and removing an interior knee panel or two will be added to my regimen. My wife says I don't talk anymore since I got the car and have turned into an introvert. It is consuming my day and night whether working on it or not.

I wouldn't recommend getting all hung up in metric versus US sized wire. What you need is wire with conductors as large as or slightly larger than what you are removing. You also need automotive grade wire and it must be stranded wire.....there are places like Mouser.com where wire can be purchased in all sizes colors and specifications. The biggest problem there is the size of spools available, most of us don't want or need more than about 25-50 feet of any given color..... Electronic Components & Supplies

"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness. " Dave Barry


I'm hoping to find that line and get back to sanity.


Dave Barry Learned All This in 50 Years | Wanderings

that is one of the big lies in life, just like "I won't get you pregnant". Same likely method of delivery too, somebody is gonna' get screwed?

+1

Lol, thanks for the chime in's to "needs nothing". Thanks for the encouragement. I have a decent assortment of wire now with my overpurchase from NAPA, planning to return what doesn't work / fit. If this fails, I will seek out a used harness and operate from there.

It is funny how these cars absorb your thoughts.

The melt continues
 

I was unwrapping most all of the harnesses from the Fuse Panel to the POD. These burns were mostly along the path to the defrost switch. It is becoming alot of wire that needs replacing. I really need to find some 80 Harnesses it seems..
I feel that anything I do will be improvement. This is not a fun area to be working twisted with knees on the ground and face under dash. I don't have much stamina in this position. The unwrapping took a while, but was worth it to reveal more melts and burns.

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