Fuel Lines & Brakes

[harborman]

I got the new fuel lines from Roger last week, so I think I will start replacing them today. Also, after this is done I will put fresh fluid in the brake system as I am sure it's all original from 1986. It might be a good idea to put PB blaster on the bleeder screws and let it sit. I plan on using ATE Super Blue fluid, available from Tire Rack.

[SolReaver]

Yo go for it Sir! yes PB blaster good to soften things up. On the brake fluid...go with the inexpensive stuff or the first change out. IMHO, don't let the master run dry. Suck as much old stuff out with a turkey baster and mop up the reservoir with clean paper towels, add fresh stuff and pump it through the lines by bleeding at the caliper end. IOW...don't crack a brake line if you don't HAVE to, just crack bleeders. You get (most of ) the old stuff out with minimal effort. Come back in a few months and repeat the procedure.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by SolReaver

Yo go for it Sir! yes PB blaster good to soften things up. On the brake fluid...go with the inexpensive stuff or the first change out. IMHO, don't let the master run dry. Suck as much old stuff out with a turkey baster and mop up the reservoir with clean paper towels, add fresh stuff and pump it through the lines by bleeding at the caliper end. IOW...don't crack a brake line if you don't HAVE to, just crack bleeders. You get (most of ) the old stuff out with minimal effort. Come back in a few months and repeat the procedure.

Don't know if you ever used one, but I have one of those self bleeders and it works like a champ. You attach the little bottle above the bleed screw (on inner fender or some place above the caliper) , they have a magnet on it, and press on the tube to the bleed screw outlet. Then open the bleed screw, then go and press on the peddle a few times and go back and check the line and bottle. Normally you would keep doing this until no more bubbles appear in the clear plastic line. In this case, I am using the ATE Blue and when it shows up Blue in the bottle, that line has all new fluid in it. When finished, tighten the bleed screw and move on to the next wheel.

[Landseer]

If your luck holds, the little rubber caps are still in-place on the calipers.

If not, be prepared to remove the bleeders to clear them of sand.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Landseer

If your luck holds, the little rubber caps are still in-place on the calipers.



If not, be prepared to remove the bleeders to clear them of sand.

I believe they were still on as I recall.

I know the front pads and rotors were replaced once by the dealer at about 30K. They looked quite new the last time I checked. That might have been in 1992, when the work was done! Amazing.

[Landseer]

Its amazing how many rich people bought these and let them sit.

One guy bought an 82 with 3500 miles on it.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Landseer

Its amazing how many rich people bought these and let them sit.

One guy bought an 82 with 3500 miles on it.

Yes, unbelievable how some are still around. I was lucky, got mine through a friend. Not really looking for one. Just happened. The original owner had other cars and maybe got tired of the 928. He was quite wealthy, so did not mean too much I guess. Wealth does not necessarily make you happy, in fact can make one very unhappy.....sorry did not mean to carry on.

[Landseer]

Same here. Family was tired of it. Came to us with 73K miles for $2K. Unbelievable value.

[neil30076]

LOL, I went from paying $43,000 for my 81 new in 82, to $1100 in 2009 for the 84 Euro S, to $3000 in 2010 for the 86 - probably spent for parts, etc in that time $10k. Not a bad ROI.

[bluemane500]

harborman, in case you dont know start at the wheel furthest away from master cyl RR then LR . RF. last LF, super blue is easily recognized ,a cheap vac system speeds things up ,and it good idea to vac out master first before you start, people with track cars do this after every event usually,its tech requiremnet to show documented proof of fluid change, if gravity bleeding it can be long story but always watch the master does not empty, get a vacula and change fluid in all ur cars,its great to have,small investment for great tool

[bluemane500]

Brake Fluid Vacuum Bleeder-Vacula, Mityvac Type Tool - eBay (item 350443083830 end time Mar-28-11 00:46:50 PDT)

[Landseer]

Originally Posted by bluemane500

harborman, in case you dont know start at the wheel furthest away from master cyl RR then LR . RF. last LF, super blue is easily recognized ,a cheap vac system speeds things up ,and it good idea to vac out master first before you start, people with track cars do this after every event usually,its tech requiremnet to show documented proof of fluid change, if gravity bleeding it can be long story but always watch the master does not empty, get a vacula and change fluid in all ur cars,its great to have,small investment for great tool

Good notes. Start with the bleeder on the master cylinder on your 86, though, and go from there.

[bluemane500]

oh , sorry i wasnt even aware there was a bleeder on the master, ive always just sucked out the resevoir and refilled first, always learning

[Landseer]

The workshop manual is always worth checking before you embark on something new. Sometimes its spotty coverage, but there is almost always some very specific and important information in it, even on mundane stuff like this.

I'm glad also to know that the antilock brake unit doesn't need special bleeding for these 86 cars, for instance.

[BReyes]

Good project(s). With fuel line R&R, I would take care to not disturb some of the rear bolts with out PB Blaster first. A fuel line under the fuel cooler happens to be pretty low and if remove some bracketry can be a problem, also the connector/ CPS is most accessible/ vulnerable at this point.

Regards,

[bluemane500]

well after further research landseer the bleeder is on the top of the master,so all its doing is draining the resevoir, i see what the manual says, but vacing out the res is doing the same thing, myself i wouldnt open that bleeder unless i was replacing the master to get the air out. all the fluid is going to get pushed out anyhow,thats my opinion, as far as the tech manual goes, its a guide but ive found many things can be done much easier with the same results, along with plenty of misprints TMHO peace

[Landseer]

Stick to bodywork.

[bluemane500]

you probably got a manual for that to go by also,FYI I asked the two top porsche repair shops in the boston area and neither touch the master to change fluid, what should they stick to ?