Changing Spark Plugs
 

Hey Guys,

Going to have a go at changing the spark plugs on my 82'S. any tips or cautions i should know about before i attempt this, first time and all.

Regards, Brenton

Use a good plug socket that holds the plug well. I use a 3/8 drive with several different extensions and a swivel joint. Make sure you screw them in by hand first so not to cross thread.

I didn't use a swivel joint on mine, but both my 928's are 16vers, like your Brenton. Swivel joints tend to put sockets on an angle which is very bad on a Spark Plug. I've broken the Ceramic portion right off if that Spark Plug Socket isn't seated right. <-- I didn't break them on my 928 but on other cars I used to toy with back in the day.

Compressed Air -
 

Hey Brenton, One other point when changing out the plugs on a 928 is to use a good blast of compressed air to blow out the spark plug holes really well. I always take plug removal in two steps. First blow out any crud that is just laying around the bottom of the recessed areas. A cheap spray can of brake/carburetor cleaner can help if needed for oil removal. Then loosen each spark plug a few turns to help breakup any remaining encrusted or hardened oxidization that may have built up around the base of each sparkplug and blow it all out again. If you are not careful because of the vertical angle of the plugs on a 928, chunks of grit can easily fall down into the cylinders and damage the rings, piston skirt or cylinder walls.

I use a very light coating of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs. This helps to prevent the plug threads from galling during the next tune-up process and can reduce the potential for electrolysis (reaction between dissimilar metals - aluminum head / steel plug base). The anti-seize paste is a conglomerate specifically formulated to help aluminum and steel cohabitate next to each other. (By the way, the anti-seize step is often vigorously debated because in theory, if used in excessive amounts, could potentially hinder current travel between the base of the plug and the grounded cylinder head). Personally, I've never had any indication of a problem.

Don’t over torque the plugs - we are talking aluminum here. I’ve had to help pull a couple of heads because the owners were a little too enthusiastic with the break over bar. Also, you might consider installing a set of platinum tip plugs simply because they last so much longer than most others. If the engine is in good running condition, this type of plug can last for years with only a minor cleaning once a year.

Good Luck, Michael :)

I always install a long rubber hose over the top of the spark plug and lower the plug into the hole and then twist in it, the purpose of the hose is to prevent cross threading, I have never had a problem with cross threading when I do it this way. it works for any application you are working on. especially a montana van which the back back plugs are a pain in the a#! to do.

These self-center for me.
Good point on cleaning before removal. I use small brushes and vacuum.
And always vac out holes themselves with heater hose attached to vac.

For tools, I'm using a spark plug socket. But using quarter inch drive extensions and a quarter-to-3/8 step-up adapter at the socket.

If the extension separates from the socket, long needlenose will remove.

Benefit of 1/4 extension - allows clearance with fenders, etc, but allows straight shot to socket/plug.

You never tried to change the back 2 plugs on a Ford Expedition then. Talk about having bloody hands. I threw in those 1 Gillion mile Platinum 4's with the 4 ground electrodes. Haven't touched the plugs in years after that.

The 928S comes with a swivel tool for the plugs! I have never had a problem with what I described.

I did mention 16V, didn't I? I never worked an a 32V, like yours before. On a 16V (like Brentons), you can get a "straight" extension through the Spider Legs without a swivel to possibly catch the Spark Plug crooked. Seriously, why add a swivel when you don't need to.

Of all the tools that I have the plug wrench in the back tool pouch works the best.

Its same with 32V.
Tool works.
Spark plug socket on 1/4" drive works better.

If you can't get a straight shot to the plugs using 1/4", and it doesn't work better on your 32V car, then your motor mounts are collapsed and need replacement. Engine in that case has sunk so low that the wrench hits fenders.

Sinking Motor mounts are mainly on the 32V motors, correct? Just a verifimication ;)

I just did my 32V and used the tools I described with no problems or use the Porsche (swivel) plug tool supplied. I also did my Expedition a few year ago, much harder job. I have never broken a plug yet on any of my long list of cars I owned. The plugs on the 32V pretty much self center themselves in those deep holes.

True true, just saw the Spark plug tool in the For Sale ads and it's very long/deep. This would self-center in the deep spark plug hole we have.

I use the conventional Spark Plug Socket (non-Porsche) on all my cars and yes didn't think about the deep hole it fits in. I still stick to my original reply (but be more specific) that if you have a 16V "and" if you use a non-Porsche Spark Plug Socket, there is no need to add a swivel to the equation. A straight extension will fit right in between the Spider Legs.

And yes "I" personally broke the Ceramic part off Spark plugs before. If I am the only one to "ever" do this, then I should get a prize, shouldn't I?

No bending needed on 16V.

MM's are liquid filled and sink dramatically. I've had to do them on 3 84 cars, an 85 and 86.
The 84 Euro had a set of Porsche MM's installed in 2000, and they had already sunk.
However, heat shields were missing from headers and may have accelertated the demise.

For less than $100 you can have a set of liquid filled Volvo V8 mm's. That's what I'm using now.

I think 82 back have different setup, but might still need to be inspected.

Whoa? So my 83 uses the liquid filled ones too? Sorry, this piece went off topic.

I tried telling you this before when you were talking about missing motor-shocks on the '83 :) Never was any..

So if you had the old skool Motor mounts, you had the little shocks. Now if you have liquid filled Motor mounts, you don't have shocks. Is this what you were talking about?

Right. I think it changed for 83. Makes a pretty big difference. If old, the oil pan may be resting on the X-member or nearly. The way to test is stick finger in the mount hooks under the car. If the hook prevents it, the mounts need to be replaced. Every car I've seen has needed it.


I think earlier ones go bad too. Check with others on this, maybe check rennlist or sharkskin's page.

Hey Guys,

Thanks for all the helpful tips, much appreciated. I'm sure they will make the job a lot less painful, I'll let you know how i get on.

Regards, Brenton:D