Bleed Cam Tensioner 1980 928
 

Hello All :)
I picked up a later type Tensioner and believe it well work on my 1980 M28/13
928 US. Hope that is correct ?
Anyway Can anyone tell me the correct way to bleed this Tensioner ? and any Tip's to do such .
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I presume you do it on the Car as it has a chamber for Oil that fit's to the block.
(1) Is that correct ?
I well order a new Gasket . Can I use a non Harding sealer on that Gasket ?
(2) Seal the Gasket or not ?
(3) what Oil ? 90 W or some other ?
(4) What about the Adjustment Bolt during "Bleeding " ? Back it off ? or does that matter ?
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Perhaps I am on the wrong Track here ? is the early type a better Tensioner ?
Photo of type I am asking about ( Late Type )
Thanks in advance
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/27489056@N03/5663503766/" title="type of Tensioner I am looking for by mendocino2001, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5106/5663503766_fef1d08c3e_z.jpg" width="640" height="402" alt="type of Tensioner I am looking for"></a>

The early tybe without bleed nipples/screws cannot be bled and must be filled before the rubber boot is installed.

Thank You " riber.bentsen"
That's what I was hoping for > so It's simple really > Just open both Fill and bleeder then pump in Oil until it comes out clear with no Air and you have it .
I often attach a rubber Hose when bleeding Brakes into a bottle with fluid in the bottom so I can see the air bubbles until they stop . This keeps Air from backing up into the system .

You offered me a early type boot but I wanted to chance to this type so as to be able to bleed it easy .
I am waiting for it to arrive along with a Kempf Tool to adjust the belt .
Got them Used on a deal so not much money invoked . Have not started the Car since I changed all the other parts yet as I am in no hurry .

Thanks much

Hi aluminum,

Sorry to hijack your thread but are the earlier tensioners the same apart from the fill and bleed nippels?

1 must fill sealed to car.
2 you don't have to seal the gasket already has a bead in it. I have a uneven spot in my block that won't seal unless I use something. I use permatex #2 non hardening sealer..work fine. you shouldn't need it unless you have an issue
3 I use a 75-90 gear oil, most any will be fine, the fluid is mostly for heat tranfer
4 I usually fill it, make my belt adjustment and then top it off.

The oil in the early tensioners is self contained in the housing, The later ones have holes in the back and the oil also fills a chamber between it and the block. I believe the later tensioners also have 2 more sets of bi-metal disks and retract more as the engine gets to operating temp, keeping the belt tension more even though out the temp range.

Hi Pete,

Thanks for explaining.

Thank Much :) Pete / riber.bentsen
All of this is a great help to me > NO point in Guessing when I can ask for help !
good info here .
AND > "robucop" > well that's My Question also > But as I now understand it.
They are and they are not > :
To Explain : They do bolt on and work > The differences that I wanted are the FILL and BLEED Ports. However I learned now from Peat R . that they are a little different inside for the better it sounds. " 2 more sets of bi-metal disks"
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Now about filling with the Oil I expect the only thing to check on is to make sure the Push Rod is fully extended ( Not pressing on Belt or stuck in Its Bore ) to allow the Oil to completely Fill it .
I just bought a Used one ( 1989 GT. ) that I well check / rebuild . Got it off the net along with a Kemph belt Tension tool for $55 .
As Mine (1980 US ) is a non interference motor I think this "Tensioner " well be just fine .
However : I do believe the only way to really know if Its right or not is to RE<> Check the belt tension after running the car a few Miles > Personally I think the sooner the better , after all It's simple to do it ? Just pull the Pass side Cam Cover / Place the crank on number 1 with the rotor pointing at Number 1 spark terminal and check the belt Tension a 20 min or so job.

Yeah, not difficult at all.

I just did it last night, the belt had been on for about 1200 miles, and I needed to adjust the tension a half turn on the screw.

Shoot for the middle of the "window" in the Kempf tool, and remember to spin the crank two times after adjustments to the screw, then check tension again.

Here is a page on the tensioner from the WSM. It think it's for the old type, but gives you an idea of the arrangement of bimetal discs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304063005.jpg

slight correction
 

That's the pic I was remembering, I thought it was for both tensioners but the difference is only for early tensioner. After a trip to the garage in my underware I looked up the tensioners. The later tensioner only has 35 discs, 7 sets of 5. Like the 01 early one. So I was incorrect. They actually reduced the # from the start (maybe to keep it tighter). The later tensioner will still work a bit better because of the oil against the block and better heat transfer however.

Great Info and the Manual Page !
Thanks all > I am waiting for the Tool and Parts to arrive in the Mail soon I hope .
I managed to resist starting the car Until everything is set Properly.
Is finally Spring Here and lot's to do. Like drive the Project LOL
I Love a Challenge and really don't feel bothered running a long time sitting Vehicle as all,
Been their done that . But without Help from you Guys no Doubt I would find myself on the wrong road often . Thanks Much for the great help and Tips .

So I finally got my parts in the mail and discovered the tensioners are quite different.
The Early VS the Late type with the bleed screws . The Body of the late type is Larger and thicker. It sits out from the block more about 100 Thousands of an inch or so .The Push rod is of a different size then the early type and as the late type sits out from the block more and the push rod does not line with early type of "Carrier for the Tension Roller "
This is what pushes roller then the belt tight
Now the late type does bolt on to the early lock and it hits the dipstick tube just a bit . I expect you can just tap the tube a bit and it well clear ok.Or you could use a late type dipstick tube.
I also Expect to use the Late Type you need the late type push rod
and the late type Carrier for the Tension Roller and perhaps the late type Roller also .
Perhaps someone knows about such issues ?.

It's bigger because it has an oil jacket around it. I thought it would come with the pin and boot. You will need correct ones or the boot won't seal on the pin either. There are several tension arm variations. I'm not up on all the details. You will also have to make sure you have the correct bolt and bushings for the given arm as well. I'm pretty sure all the rollers are the same. I would contact 928 international and explain what you doing. They sould be able to supply you with the correct combination, and probably hook you up with a cheaper used arm. I did not remember all those differences when I did my swap, probably because my arm was shot and they just sent me what I needed. good eye. as for the dipstick.. mine hits. not an issue, I don't know if there's more than one.

I have a spare tensioner from an '84 that is for sale if someone needs it. It needs new boot and seals.

Thanks : Pete R
Yes the " tensioner "( 1989 GT ) came with the boot but not the pin > I was thinking they would be the same Pin but no. My early Pin was to large in diameter to fit the steel plunger within the Tensioner .
Moreover : the Pin would not have lined up with my early Tension Arm to work the roller .
I well have to Load the 89 Manual ( to my PC ) to get the Part number for the arm as the " tensioner " I bought ( $20 ) was from a 1989 GT
Your right : Now that you mention it perhaps the Tension Arm Bolt is also Different.
Look's to me to be a weak Point on the 928 Motor as the Bolt inserts in to threaded hole in the Water Pump hummm . To not over tighten this bolt and perhaps use Lock tight is on the plate
I wonder what else I may have overlooked to Swap out these parts > Early for Late <
Hey I bet the Water Pump hay be different to work with the Late type tension Arm IE: the Tension Bolt Hole in the Pump perhaps ?

I would talk to 928 Int. You may not want the 89 arm or pin for that matter as it probably has provisions for the "belt tension" light that you don't need. or at the very least will require extra components you don't need to make it work right.

The correct arm will dictate the bushings, which will dictate the bolt. You need a parts specialist for this one, VERY hard to figure out on you own. again. easy one for 928 int. (they got me all the right stuff when I did it.)

I would be torqueing ALL these bolt to the required spec. 6ft/lbs (don't quote me) on the water pump bolts is REAL easy to over torque and strip the threads. The pivot bolt has a spec that works perfect everytime and is not a weak link at all. Water pump is the same.

Did Aluminum manage to successfully upgrade his tensioner to the later type and if so what other modifications were carried out?
I have a similar problem. Any help gratefully appreciated .

No I ended up just using the early type Tensioner after all and it seems to be working ok so far . Was to much hassle to adapt the later type or I could not find the necessary additional parts to make it work necessary to adapt the later type .
No Doubt the later type is better . I think the Dipstick issue was one thing but forget the rest needed . Sorry to not be of further help here .