Good WYAIT when doing MM?
 

Bit of a cryptic title :)

I'm about to do my motor mounts, they are of course completely squashed :rolleyes:

I'm also replacing the oil pan gasket since it has a break in it, and leaks a bit all round. Going with the silicone-type. Thinking about replacing the bolts with a stud and nuts set from a certain 928-supplier - what is you guys take on that, all disputes with said supplier aside? Has anyone tried it, or is running it on their cars right now?

What else is good to do besides that "While You Are In There"? :D

I bought the stud kit from 928s Rus.
Its really not needed / didn't help me. Clean and reuse your oil pan bolts. A little locktite.
Check the steering U-joint for free range of motion, seen a few fail.
Might need to repair/resolder ends on oil pressure and oil level wires.
Good time to address steering pump rebuild and new lines and reservoir.

Keep track of where all the big bolts and washers go. A couple can be swapped and cause problems.

Good luck

I was going to do that oilpan stud thing on an engine I'm just finishing up. I bought a piece of metric allthread and cut it up into the studs and got the nylocks too. I did a little deburring of the cuts and was all set but when I started inserting the studs into the block, I noticed the threads in the block were kind of sloppy and the studs (or bolts either) didn't fit that well.

This made me think to use the studs (with nylocks) I would have to glue them in (loctite) and I started getting that feeling of trying too hard to make something work. Theres a lot of theories about why those oilpan bolts come loose and the mms would prolly be a contributor but also the weight of the pan seems heavier than any other I've played with so I'm thinking that may be a factor too. In the end I just ordered some new yellow bolts from McMaster-carr. Just my experience, YMMV ... Bruce

Thanks Chris, the vendor I was referring to was 928 MS, didn't know 928s Rus carried the sets. I'll keep my good old bolts/washers with some Locktite. They have been in there for 25 years, they can stay there for another 10.

The steering pump and all things related was replaced 5 years ago by the PO at a Porsche dealer, as far as I can tell from the receipts.

I've got a new oil pressure sender lying around that will be going in too, right now the gauge is pegged whenever ignition is on, so the problem may lay elsewhere. Do you know how the sender works? I mean, does it ground at 5bar, open at 1bar, what?

I'll try to keep track of the bolts and washers, come up with some sort of system. When I did the WP/TB, I messed up some of them due to just putting aside without thought.

The thing will fail pegged at 5bar, and with wire disconnected I think it goes there too.

Biggest key to this job is pre-cleaning before disassembly. Cleaning away the grit before cracking open the pan is preferred. Also, flushing the opg bolt holes somehow to remove grit and oil so the loctite works. With great care to keep grit out of pan / off rotating parts.

Rack boots and bump stocks should be looked at, also its a great time to do inner/outer tierod ends.

Yeah, I have the rack boots lying here too.

What are bump stocks?

They are bump-stops. They are round shock pads that slip onto the steering rack before the tie rods are installed. One per side. Keeps steering from overrotating I think. Sometimes they disintegrate from oil. Worth replacing if you are going in that deep.

OK, i added them to my shopping list along with tie rod assembly for left/right. They are rusted badly, from being driven in the winter. They salt the roads like crazy here in Denmark :(

Yup, I agree. My Euro Motor is using the stock Oil Pan Bolts. Use the Blue Locktite on the threads so they don't back out with vibration. Silicone Pan Gasket is the way to go, I have yet to see an oil leak on my engine ( in the oil pan area specifically). My Motor was out of the car so it was very easy, can't comment on how to do this in the car. Also, never did Motor Mounts, but all ears here.

Also, if you can get you Oil Pan off, clean it as if it were your Dinner Plate. The Appearance of a clean Oil Pan makes a huge difference in how it looks.

HAHA, I doubt anyone will let me put it in their dishwasher though :D

Lol, you'll be surprised. I can't remember which user actually used their Kitchen Sink, so you can't say "it can't be done." ;)

I remember.. right Chris?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1299351932.jpg

You need to start small, get them used to the idea....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304429099.jpg



Then, BAMMM


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304429275.jpg

LOL I love how its right over the dishes. Classic.

Haha

Silicon gasket with stock bolts work perfect! Good luck your in for a treat. lol

Thanks, I'm gonna have myself a little under-car party!!

When I did the MM/ OPG job I also need new tie-rod ends. So I went ahead and did all of the suspension parts that could mess up the alignment. Some of these things have been mentioned above, but here is the complete list that I did: Tie-rods, steering rack boots, steering rack stops, steering rack bushings, upper ball joint boots, and one lower ball joint ( it was bad), and new shocks. Then took it in for an alignment. Check the upper A-arm play, if the bushing are bad, it can made an alignment difficult.