Diffrence in power 82 against 83 U.S.
 

HI Guys,

is there lot of diffrence in power between 82 versus 83. iam looking to make a
decision weather its worth buying the 83 just for that reason. Thanks Ed.

Is that the 4.7 liter in the 83?

Re: 83
 

Yes malficio, i think they used 4.7 ltr in all 83 U.S. models. ED>

If your talking US Models Its 12 HP More for the 83

If I had to choose between 2/10's of a liter, I'd choose the car in the best condition. :)

4.5 vs 4.7, not real issue I think, but the rest of the S package, like S brakes ... maybe worth it.

Picking the one in the best condition not a bad idea either.

The main difference is the 82 will have a 3 speed auto and the 83 has the 4 speed auto if I am remembering correctly. That makes the biggest difference. If both are manuals then really no difference.

I have both. Like Dean says, the big diff is the 3-4 speed Auto. My 3 speed is a dog when the 4 speed isn't. I do think in my opinion that the 4.7 seems to have more power, but it's been so long since I drove my 4.5 :(

My friend had an 83 5 speed US. It was freakishly faster than other 928's. We could never figure out why but I ran very well. We thought it had a Euro motor but the injection and engine # were US.

We've got an 84 that seems freakishly fast, too.
Wondered if somebody stuck euro camshafts into it when replacing the front sheet metal with a Euro clip.

The 86 euro comes freakishly fast from the factory :D

Seriously, one has to think twice about going WOT on public roads. Scary-fast...

Must be down to the gearbox/ratios, since the Euro 4.5 is rated 240hp, and the '83 4.7 stands at 238 (more torque though).

No, remember my Euro engine was seized. It has an 82 US 4.5 in it now. You mean you didn't read all of the 58 Pages of my Thread? The shame ;)

I installed that Euro motor in my 79. That motor in the early (lighter) car works very well.. I agree. I still don't think it's as fast as my 944 Turbo though.

Sorry, brain fart.. I remembered it like you got a US block and put all the Euro CIS-crap on it. That would make euro-power, right?

They must have put a million horsepower in mine :) Or maybe it's because it is lightly optioned. Cloth seat centers, vinyl panels (leather weighs a lot more), no sunroof, no rear AC, small stereo (no amp), and it has the seats without heating, memory or lumbar-support.

I don't think it weighs more than your 79 actually?

I'm not up on the weights. I know they gained about 500lbs through the run. I was about 3200 stock. Minus all ac components, cruise control stuff, no sunroof, no air pump, no mechanical fan, 32v tubular headers,no cat, lighter Borla exhaust, and Sparco seats WAY lighter than the leather elec ones). I added an electric fan and about 50lbs of stereo gear. So I should be under 3000... but who knows. It definately scoots with the 85-86 Euro.

You can add on a Lot of power by reworking the distributor > simple if you know how .
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/27489056@N03/5708246755/" title="Porsche 928 motor numbers and more by mendocino2001, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2197/5708246755_31523fa4af_z.jpg" width="640" height="375" alt="Porsche 928 motor numbers and more"></a>

Okay: any tips on reworking the dist? Links?

Any good speed shop can set it up > ( Distributor on Machine )
what you want to do is increase the initial timing way up > That means you must limit the total advance > Each Shop has It's own way to do it > ? Like copper Tubing over stops ? custom advance plates and the like
One good way is to set up a Extra Distributor in case you want to reinstall the stock unit say for smog perhaps
You can limit the stops of the advance plate .
Now if your initial timing is jacked up some 20 Degrees then you must take off about 20 Degrees on the top end. Other tuning may be in order like colder plugs
You well not want / need the Vacuum advance > you convert the Unit to a Mechanical Unit
If you don't want to be all that radical you may want to try perhaps a GT Distributor . I have not checked out the advance curve but no doubt they are different
Experiment with your initial Timing after setting the Unit up until you get the best results
If you get Spark Knock at top end then you have " not set it up right " . Play with the timing at this point perhaps backing it off say 3 to 5 degrees at a time until you get a a no Knock top end. Your elevation well be a factor .
Do not operate the car with Spark Knock get it right or you well damage something.
I expect their are several here that can steer you to some shop to set the Distributor up to your need's
Here is a Link for example
602-604 Racing DUI Distributor
another Link :
http://www.setyourtiming.com/Timing_Settings.html