Both look shot. Looks like somebody tried to save the $ for new bushings by inserting a brass bushing on one of them.
A good used one should be an easy search, maybe for free or close to it.

Neil, not sure on the early cars how they changed.

the part number I have for both of them is 928 105 540 1R, as for whether or not someone replaced the bearing I have no idea, when the bolt goes in there is no play or slop. if you look at the pics both of the wheels look different but they are the same dimensions and stick out the same, it looks like they have two different bearings in each. like mentioned earlier it came off of a good working car, so far no one else has seen this type of bearing and it is not in the book, thats why I was throwing it out there.

I think Porken Tensioner is in your future. I wouldn't even try to rebuild that.

PorKen Products

Somebody rigged it.
Not a bad idea particularly, but not stock.

Porkensioner is a possibility, but they require replacement of the tensioner cylinder with each timing belt. (I support an Audi shop and we have a small pile of tensioner cylinders that failed -- you can depress them with your thumb). The unit is fine, but its not a lifetime solution that people mistake it for.

I am going to call tomorrow and see how much it is to replace the bearing and rollers and the washer and get it done right so I dont run into the same thing again.

Might want to check on the gears, too, at least crank ( which is about $120 ) and oil pump ( maybe $65 ). Crank gear is often very sharp and angled.

I am ordering a new tensioner bracket, new bearings and rollers, new nylon bushings so just I know I have the whole thing right, that was from 928 intl. I do have two bolts here that were on both brackets, one is shorter than the other, does anyone know the correct length of bolt to use, thread pitch and shank size, I just want to size the bolts to make sure I don't need new ones, he wants 20 bucks for the one bolt. that seems really steep.

The bolt you need for an 82 is a 928.105.570.03, and it is 55 mm long.
and looks like this:
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928intl/prodinfo.asp?number=928%20105%20570%2003

You just had regular old bolts holding your tensioner arm Chris. Spend the 20 buck and get the right bolt for the job. It is still cheaper than a motor.

It's only $13!
plus you need 2 x 999.924.003.40 ( nylon bushes)
and 1 x 928.105.572.00 ( washer/spacer)
to be 100% good.

13 bucks in the USA, but Canadian prices are always different.

Sorry.
Did not know Chris is in Canada, not in his signature.

Bolt $8.25
 

Wow $5 sounds good to me >>
but this Place has them for $8.25
Link :
dC AutomotiveOver 140,000 square feet of new and used Porsche parts
if yours is a 82 year
Don't over tighten that Bolt ! or it well strip out . You might use Lock Tight or some pipe Joint compound on it > just a dab .
Needs to be right as it controls the belt tracking as well as more .

If a factory shoulder bolt wasn't used, could be the block was drilled out and tapped or helicoiled to a non factory size. I suggest a close look at what you have once the parts are torn down.

Good point.

The shoulder bolt, used to pivot the tensioner arm, mounts into threads tapped into the water pump, though, not the block. The threads must be sealed with something to prevent dripping.

It would be a great time to install a new Laso water pump.

Be careful, also, with the three bracket bolts. I think 1 is shorter?. Those three holes need to have great threads and the bolts need to be the right lengths. Timeserting is easily possible if needed to restore them, and any other threads that might have been stripped on the front of the block.

Good plan on going with the original parts. I think the tensioner arm is also suspect at this point.

For used parts, either 928 intl or a private enthusiast that has substituted the Porkensioner would be sources I'd pursue.

I ordered all new parts so they should be here next week and then back at it again.

So I got all of my new parts in today, I am going to be working on it tomorrow after work, does anyone know off hand what is the torque either in NM or ft lbs the bolt that goes in thru the bracket into the top roller which goes into the water pump, I can`t seem to find the torque spec for it. hopefully I will be running tomorrow night, maybe saturday.

anyone??

The thing is, I never use torque specs and I know I should but never have on any of my cars. I guess I have worked on so many that I just tighten by feel. I also use Blue Locktite so they never back out and blue is very easy to loosen back up. Never use the red stuff.

Sorry I didn't answer your question but I know someone here knows.

so I got the car running today, drove it around for a few kms to make sure it was all good, then put the other belts on and tighten them all down. drove it around again to double make sure everything was good. no problems, went to gas station, got gas and was going to drive to my work and wash it, 16 km away, I made it half way and I could smell oil burning, I pulled over and looked underneath and then noticed a puddle under the car, I shut the car off. pulled dipstick and most of oil was gone, havent found source of leak, but went to start car again to get it off the road but it didnt start, it sounded like a whinning sound, almost like a timing belt was gone on a normal car. pulled no 1 spark plug and piston is moving up and down and you can hear the compression, havent down drivers side as of yet, if there is no oil in the car is there a switch or something that won't activate the car, is there anything I should be looking for in regards to this, has anyone ever had this before,