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Garage: Yes but no roof.
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Long crank before start (75% of the time)
For the last 10 years my '84 EuroS has had a long crank before starting.
Most of the time. Sometimes it just starts after a few seconds' crank. It doesn't seem to matter how long it's been still, just a minute while I go into a shop, hours, or days, same thing happens - most of the time a long crank before it starts. Recently cleaned all grounds + central electric panel. Just been out for a days' drive, and it's running well otherwise. Any ideas? Where should I start?
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'84 928S (Euro) Automatic Shiefferblaumetallic |
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inventor
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 136
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Have you replaced the crank position (reference) sensor?
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POWERED BY PORKEN 1986 928S3 AT grandprixweiß weinrot #11951988 928S4 MT polarsilberm sw/grau #1023 liftbars.com porken.com S300s.com
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+++ Also, your fuel pump check valve may not be working, requiring a lot of cranking to build up fuel pressure.
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Mike 1982 Porsche 928 Auto Black on Black - Competition Package |
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Garage: Yes but no roof.
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I have replaced the crank position sensor (a week or so ago). I had a no-start, and several of you here helped me out finding the root cause.
Popped in a new CPS, and started first-time. For the fuel-pump check valve, should I just replace it, or test to see if it works first? And while I'm in there.... I suppose I should replace the fuel filter as well?
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'84 928S (Euro) Automatic Shiefferblaumetallic |
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1986 928S 32 valve engine All stock, automatic, 539 Weissgold Metallic, 70K original miles, Hankook Ventus 2 tires. Previously owned: 67 Vette, 427 L88 Stingray, 74 De Tomaso Pantera L. Latest addition: 2000 BMW Z3 Roadster |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ft.Lauderdale, FLORIDA
Posts: 2,813
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Recently, I've noticed that my '85 needs an excessive amount of cranking to get started.
I thought it was just this stupid 10% ethanol gas vaporizing in my fuel rails, until Sunday when my car FAILED to start in my swale. Me and my neighbor pushed it off the street and into my driveway. My battery dates to 2003; It was obvious that it was failing! -Eight years from a battery: This was a cheap size 49 that I bought at an Autozone store. For items like batteries, I like to shop locally. I bought an Interstate battery today, $129. I've read nothing but good about this company, but I have to say that the plastic case of the battery I gave back was the EXACT same as the cheap battery I bought eight years ago- N! |
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1986 928S 32 valve engine All stock, automatic, 539 Weissgold Metallic, 70K original miles, Hankook Ventus 2 tires. Previously owned: 67 Vette, 427 L88 Stingray, 74 De Tomaso Pantera L. Latest addition: 2000 BMW Z3 Roadster |
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Garage: Yes but no roof.
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I've recently replaced the battery - so sure that's not it.
I've order the fuel check vale & other goodies here on Pelican. Turns out it's cheaper to order German stuff and have it shipped to France than it is to order it in France. Go figure! The check valve comes with 3 O -rings, so I think I'm good to go. It'll be a week before it arrives and I can install though ![]() Will post again with results. thanks again all for the ideas.
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'84 928S (Euro) Automatic Shiefferblaumetallic |
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Jonah Boyd 78 928 5 speed - #111 81 928 5 speed - the "Copper Turd" 81 928 Auto |
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Any car battery from 1994 has got to be unreliable unless it is something special, or seldom used. Most commercial places change them out at 4 years. I have had batteries go for 7 years, daily usage, but they can just quit unexpectedly and leave you stranded. Cheaper to not push battery life, than pay a tow and be stranded on a trip! Not to mention time and inconvenience.
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1986 928S 32 valve engine All stock, automatic, 539 Weissgold Metallic, 70K original miles, Hankook Ventus 2 tires. Previously owned: 67 Vette, 427 L88 Stingray, 74 De Tomaso Pantera L. Latest addition: 2000 BMW Z3 Roadster |
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I dont worry about the age of the batteries on my cars, as i carry a jumperbox in everything i drive. As does my dad.
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Jonah Boyd 78 928 5 speed - #111 81 928 5 speed - the "Copper Turd" 81 928 Auto Last edited by 1982_928; 07-27-2011 at 05:18 AM.. |
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I've got a redtop in my old Trooper that's about seven years old. It's dying, but functions perfectly if I start the vehicle and let it run weekly. Let it go a month without running, volts drop to around seven. Charge it up, run it weekly, good to go. That's a hell of a battery.
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1982 Porsche 928, Auto, 4.5 http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i166/hethaerto/928Mist2.jpg?t=1305333945 |
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Seems lawn tractor batteries don't last very long for some reason either. I have an old battery in my Jeep which I charge to start once a year, but I would never drive it far. I just don't feel it's worth trying to get more out of them for more than 4 years for a reliable car. I don't carry jumper cables and I just don't need them. One thing also, if the voltage is down and you try and start, it puts more stress on the starter. One thing I noticed on my Ford Expedition, it has these thin clamps on the terminals, not the old lead type and I discovered you need to take them off and clean the clamps once in awhile.
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1986 928S 32 valve engine All stock, automatic, 539 Weissgold Metallic, 70K original miles, Hankook Ventus 2 tires. Previously owned: 67 Vette, 427 L88 Stingray, 74 De Tomaso Pantera L. Latest addition: 2000 BMW Z3 Roadster |
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Yep, the terminals must be scrubbed on a regular basis, regardless of the battery's quality of build. I soak all my terminals in battery connector protectant after I scrub them.
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1982 Porsche 928, Auto, 4.5 http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i166/hethaerto/928Mist2.jpg?t=1305333945 |
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