Hate it when i'm right
 

Been having a ball driving this car, can't get enough. Someday, probably over the winter I'll attack the interior but for now just enjoying the driving. Except for one thing that is... Since the first drive i've noticed a vibration in the steering wheel at low speed. Its most noticeable as I'm slowing from 50-60mph. No vibration at all at high speeds. Went for the easy fix this weekend and had the low NTB check all four tires for balance and if any were flatspotted after the car sat for a while. The report was that all four corners were out of balance.

So my initial 10-15 miles felt smoother. I think that was because the jack they used took the weight off of this problem and it took that long for the suspension to settle,

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315360415.jpg

Closeup

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315360442.jpg

Upper balljoint on both sides are "perished". Could that be causing the vibration I described? Damnit! Was looking forward to picking up my Son from his Mom in the 928 this weekend. Depending on how quickly I can get things apart and get a replacement, i may still have it ready.

I would check he upper ball joints chances are they just need new bellows Roger sells em.
Also check the lower BJs to see if they are steel or aluminum use a magnet if aluminum then replace em,
also get a look at the inner and outer tierods the inners are usually worn

inspect the wheels for bends watch the inner area for a bend as you spin the rim balance the wheels and replace the tires if they are over 5 years old

Will check that Merlin. These tires were put on last year but the car sat for a time so I was worried about them flat spotting. Another thing I noticed looking at the car last night. I noticed that with the car on stands if I grab either of the front tires I could get a small amount of play. Hard to tell where its coming from but knowing condition of the upper ball joint that could account. BobG

Sry, realized I was referring to upper balljoint as a bushing. For sure I will start with a replacement on both sides. I know there's a pry here pry there method for determining which linkages are an issue. Is that advisable? Not sure if I could tell visualy aside from what I found with that upper joint.

Lower BJ is steel. Checked with Roger and he doesn't have a replacement for the boot. Does anyone have a source for that part?

Is Roger@************ out of the upper control arm boots?
Audi also make a part thats similar go to the dealer to see

I noticed the play in the front suspension early on but had blamed it on upper/lower BJ. Now that I'm getting a closer look though I'm certain it's in the inner/outer wheel bearing. Before I order parts, is the amount of movement you're hearing in the video ok? I'm assuming not but need to check. Enjoy the long weekend.

IMG_0400.MOV - YouTube

Wheel bearings, upper/lower BJ done on drivers side and I'm putting everything back together. One thing i'm noticing is that I can only get the nut on the upper BJ only so tight and the ball begins to turn. Is there a trick or is this a sign of an issue with the joint? I cleaned it and inspected, the joint seems tight. Tons of fun putting the races in for the bearings without a driver. I did the "freeze the race while heating the hub" trick.

put a jack under the lower control arm and lift it up a bit,
be careful not to jack the car off the jackstand.
then with a long prybar,
pry down on the upper control arm then install the upper control arm nut

I installed a pair I received from Roger two weeks ago. 928I has them too.

Almost done with drivers side refresh for front suspension. New shock/spring,new lower bj,new boot for upper bj, new inner/outer bearings. Everything torqued to spec. Had two questions, can't find an answer in the manual.

Should I pack the dust cap with grease or is that overkill and, how tight should this nut be? Not sure how I could torque correctly anyway.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1319933157.jpg

to set the front axle preload
first take the nut off,
then use some 600 grit paper on the flat washer make sure both sides are smooth.

clean the washer fit to axle then install the nut turn it hand tight spin the hub a few times,
then back the nut off,
then re tighten the nut so you can push the washer side to side with the tip of a screw driver,
do not try to pry it sideways only push it with the tip of the screwdriver.
Once this is done then the front axle preload is set.

You may notice the the hub still has play in 12 to 6 O clock plane this indicates a worn inner bearing seat on the lower side of the bearing seat.
The only remedy is to replace the spindle.

DO not try to tighten the axle nut to remove this play. as you will damage the bearings

Thanks Merlin, makes sense. I'll redo preload as described. With the nut just finger tight I noticed a very slight amount of play but far less compared to what I had before new bearing/seat. Am I looking for absolute zero play or is that impossible?

your looking to be able to slide the flat washer under the nut with the tip of a screwdriver,
( thats the reason to sand it slightly to remove any burrs) once thats done then your preload is set.
if the hub still has play put the wheel on and drive it that way.
Some owners try to tighten the nut to remove the play but the spindle has been worn down and no amount of tightening will fix the worn seat, only thing that happens the hub expands with brake heat then the bearings go into overload from too tight initial preload.

I'm hoping to be done with my front end rebuild this weekend and put some end of the season miles on the old girl. 928Motorsports provided this Koni spring/shock kit. I'm not familiar with the lock nut they give me for the top of the shock tower.

This kit:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1321116115.jpg

Here's a pic of the nut:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1321116083.jpg

I called their tech support and they said this type nut is supposed to go on hard. This feels like i'm putting on a crossthreaded nut though, almost more than my workbench/vise combination can handle http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...s/a_frusty.gif. Are the markings in the photo supposed to visible when i'm threading on? The threads reduce in diameter from one side of the nut to the other I know. Hmm, maybe if i heated the nut first...

For this winter, seriously considering a strip of the interior as in:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1321116966.jpg

Learned a new term today "interference lock nut". Knew it was a type of locknut but now I know the name of my enemy. Question remains though, should I need a breaker bar to thread this nut on enough?

I would take the shock to the hardware store and get a set of nuts that fit the threads you shouldnt need any type of breaker bar to fit a new self locking nut if you do then the threads are different

Yes, or take a metric and std tap set and determine that way.

Interference nuts are difficult, but don't require breaker-bar.

Maybe saying breaker bar was stretching the truth, possibly a little pissed at the time. I can use an open end 19mm wrench and get the nut to turn. It just seems to require a ton more effort than a typical lock nut with the nylon insert. When I back the nut off the threads look to be intact.

Had another one about the initial setting for the eccentric's. Is there a "get the car to the shop for proper alignment" setting?