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I fabricated a kill switch for my 928
Do you guys like my kill switch? Let me know your thoughts. This even conforms to the proper battery disconnection procedure. The only thing that doesn't completely satisfy me is that the secondary gound cable from the switch to the body is not copper. However, this system works great and has been 100% reliable for the past two three weeks. I thought I would share this.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328127464.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328127527.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328127584.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328127621.jpg |
Cant tell from the picture but is that wire sufficient ? Looks a little thin, but good idea..
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but why?
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A switch between the relay and the fuel pump is easier,smaller switch can be hidden anywhere close to the drivers seat. I use a gravity cut off switch from a bosch injection system , auto shut off if the car is in accident (or flips)
The reset button doubles as a security off switch. |
ha ha, bought the switch yesterday, was gonna do the exact same thing tomorrow night. Funny. :)
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I still think it's a "Great" idea, but I personally would go with a larger gauge cable. We all know the ground issues we have on our 928's so why skimp on the ground that comes "directly" off the battery? It's the Main Bad Boy ;)
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Would it not be better to mount a kill switch where it can be reached by a seated driver? Unless you just want an easier way to disconnect the battery for when the car is sitting.
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but your right, the cable is (appears) too small. He'll know if it starts smoking. |
I was thinking the kill switch needed to be on the outside?
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It's not worth resetting the radio and clock to use as a theft device, it's out of reach of the driver for any safety benefit, and if it's for maintence, how much is being done? It's not that hard to just unscrew the ground to begin with. While it's kinda neat I don't see any real purpose for it.
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I had the same switch in my car for a while between the battery ground and the chassis, since I wasn't driving the car much and didn't want to run down the battery between uses. I put the switch in around 2007 and loved it while it lasted. But.... the switch failed this fall. Since it is sealed, no way to clean it so I had to replace it. Ironic that the "newest" electrical part on the car failed. No telling how long it was making lousy contact before failing, either.
I replaced it with a knife switch by Wirthco. Much more "reliable" in my opinion. Quite handy now that I'm doing work on the electrical system. Once I'm done, I may retire it, but for now, it's pretty useful. My current switch is similar to this one and was about $20-25 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1328201917.jpg |
When I am "doing stuff" I find it easier to loosen the neg clamp on the battery and take it on and off instead of messing with the wingnut.
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these are the only type of Battery Disconnects I would trust since they are made by a company that makes proven race car stuff. http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74100_part.jpg http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74106_part.jpg The boots to cover the connect part. http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74110_part.jpg Here's a quote of the cable gauge sizes: Quote:
Moroso : Category Display |
I replaced my negative cable wingnut with a washer and allen bolt. I leave the allen right there in the tool area. I have to secure a couple large amp cables as well as the battery cable to it works for me
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Actually my car has draw thats dropping the battery. Big Surprise huh? Only, I've pulled tested the fuses and cannot isolate it. So this is what I did. I plan to get another stock ground strap and connect it to the body in a day or two. I agree that it's not a perfect set up yet.
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