Ljet brains rarely go bad, happens, but rare.

12v directly to the coil might have fried it, I would check resistance on it, maybe just replace.

What can be measured easily with a meter to verify the green wire signal is getting where it needs to go? Fuel pump continues to run maybe?

After being unsuccessful with the timing light I took a spark plug out, hooked it up to a ground, and tested for spark. Though weak and faint, there is spark! I am under the assumption that if there is any spark at all, the ECU can be ruled out of the possible problems. If the ECU was bad, would weak spark still be possible? If so, is there a way to test the ECU to make sure it is working properly? Also, a friend who has been helping me with this project stopped by a little earlier to hear the cranking difference and thinks the car is finally cranking the way/ at the speed it should be. Any thoughts? Thanks for the replies. And I just updated my profile, I'm in the philly area.

Are you sure your timing light works?

Have you checked your plug and coil to dist wire resistance?

I am sure that the timing light works, I tested it on my other car. As for the coil, I will try another coil this coming weekend in hopes of that being the problem.

Coil on my 84 Euro measured ok, car ran bleh, bought a used one from 928Intl, ran much less bleh, on to next problem. ;)

So the car does not run, right?

I recommend buying a "noid" tester. It's a light bulb apparatus that plugs into a fuel injector connector. If your ECU is commanding the injectors to pulse, then the light will pulse rapidly. You can see it in plain daylight. Verifying that your injectors are pulsing or not will save you LOADS of time. You say you have spark, you say it's weak, but it's there, so next up is verifying injector pulse. If you do have injector pulse, time to verify fuel pressure/flow.

There's not much else to it. Save for one thing: cold start injector. If the injector is not plugged in, or has a broken wire, the car will never light off. At least my 82 would never light off with the cold start injector disconnected, even after warm.

The cold start injector operates off of battery power.

I bought one of these, brilliant design. Stick it to your windshield and watch while you crank.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/270553691729?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&va r=sbar

Thank you for the help! I was definitely running out of ideas. The car has not run in seven years. I bought the car in hopes of learn how to work on porsches and sure enough, this has proven itself to be a challenge, though fun. I will try swapping out the coil and seeing what happens but I will definitely look into a noid tester and report back with my findings.

Noid light is handy and cheap, 928 uses Bosch injectors with same connector as older Fords.

Usually you get so you notice the clicking sound the injectors make, but there are several diagnostic tools that target injectors because they are troublemakers.

With spark its a simple system, start at the plugs and move back up the chain until you find where good signal goes to bad output. Used to be you could hook a meter to the primary side of the coil (low voltage) and see whats going on, but I haven't a clue if that is still done.

When this is all sorted out should make a nice addition to Leo's common fixes thread. ;)

I wouldn't bother replacing the coil. You've already proven you have spark.

Buy a couple of cans of starting fluid, spray a BUTTLOAD into the intake, crank and see if it will start. If it starts, and idles, but finally stalls after the fluid is all used up, then you have a fuel delivery issue. Replace filter, verify pressure, keep going up the chain. Use the noid, too.

Spray was already tried, no luck, so ign needs sorting. Used coil is like $20, pretty cheap diagnostic.

He said he had (weak) spark, and he said he sprayed "gum cutter', not starting fluid.

This is where you need to check. Maleficio is right. You have no fuel .Check pressure at the injector rail.Should be 38psi. If no pressure go back to tank ,tank fuel filterscreen, check valve ,fuel filter,lines etc. If pressure then pull the injectors ,wash with acetone.I had this problem from gummed fuel 15 yrs old. Purchase seals and injector screens and rebuild them. Go to the wreckers and get a set of 4 electrical connectors that fit.I think old jeeps and vws have them. I got 4 with clips and about 10"leads for 10.00. Make up a test rig and with a battery charger or old battery to power open the injectors.With a compressor apply 30psi to acetone or paint thinners filled line and watch each injector spray.Once your satisfied reassemble.Acetone will clean the whole sytem fast and not hurt anything if not left more than a day or two.Paint thinners works too but slower maybe 3 or 4 days to clean tank. You may have to remove the tank. If so check the procedures on the forum as we have all done it with varying experiences.