Flushing out the block/checking for bad head gasket
 

I have been doing a bit of looking but wasn't able to find this info. If there is already a thread on it just point me that way.

My car has been sitting quite a while(7-10 years) and I'm thinking it may have had the wrong coolant in the car. My question is this, what is the best way to flush out the block and to check to see if there are pieces of a disintegrating head gasket in the water? Without taking the motor out and removing the heads.

You can get test strips to check the coolant PH, but what I have seen is that often times the damage is very local almost like a termite eating the heads from some small leak.

My view is if you plan to keep it, pull the motor and get it over with.

I actually have a digital pH meter that I can use. What is a good pH to be at?

I do plan on keeping it but for now I would like to get it running and driving to make sure I don't have other things to worry about. Mainly the trans. Head gaskets are on my to do list but I would like to get to enjoy the car for a few miles first, if possible.

in answer to your question remove the block drains, then let the old stuff drain out,
then refit them,
refill with 2 gallons of fresh coolant and 2 gallons of distilled water found at the supermarket 4 gal total.

Thye only clue to a bad HG is to look along to top edges of the HGs in the Valley if you see lots of whitish deposits then the gaskets are in need of replacement they will deteriorate internally so its really hard to guess here unless the heads are removed.
Also inspect the plugs if any are very clean IE no burned tan or black electrodes then you may have coolant leaking onto the cylinder

Good info on the HG. I will look closely here to see if I see anything. One thing I was looking for was particles from the HGs in the water as I was draining it from the block and the water was clean as stated below.

Well guys I sprayed a bit of PB Blaster on the bolts about 10-15 min before I started the job. I sprayed the bolts and while it was sitting I drained the oil. Oil was black but I did not see anything in it as it was draining.

The 2 bolts for the water drain on the block came out rather easily. Didn't have to struggle with them and once they were out the water came a gushing. Didn't see anything in the water at all. Just a bunch of sweet smelling greenness. So I am hoping that is a sign of good things. I need a new radiator drain plug and I will be good to go. Mine came out easily but was halfway broken. I will be emailing Roger to add that to my most recent order. I'm going to replace every water line that is available on this car before getting it fully back together.

Good time for a new heater valve and related hoses.

Just looked and it looks like Roger included that in the quote he sent me. I asked him to send me a quote with every part/hose that would need to be replaced in the water system. I think I may add the power steering hoses and oil hoses as well. Might as well since I'm at it. And if it starts and runs well I'll be that much closer to a reliable car. With all those parts and an in-tank fuel strainer it comes out to about $250 after shipping I would guess. Not too bad. Might be able to order this Friday if I have funds left over after bills.

Not trying to dissuade you from ordering these things. And you may need these things to make you car "reliable". But why not get it started first and see if it will run, and THEN, do these other repairs/replacements/maintenance items.

I did it your way on my first 928. Worked on it 4 (yes 4) years, replaced all kinds of stuff that needed replacing or was going to need replacing. Finally got to drive it twice, and found out that it needed head gaskets as oil bubbled up out of a head bolt. (the Schwartz car).

Not cheap hoses, and PS return I see as NLA, so don't lose those ends.

I'd save the money for more immediate issues that turn up.

I'd flush the block like MrMerlin said. All of the Mercedes V8s have block drains too. Install fresh anti freeze, and get it running and driving. The scaling might be bad or it might be minimal. It would be a pitty to sink hardcore dollars into the car before realizing that it's water tight like Flipper's butt. My '84 sat for about 8 years, but it remarkably runs cooler than my '83 that hasn't sat at all. Check for leaks as MrMerlin said. So pretty much listen to MrMerlin. I would worry about mechanical function of the car before tearing into the motor. They are only factory torque spec once.

http://www.subeducation.info/avatar1.jpgGood time for a new heater valve and related hoses.

Thanks for the advice all.

And what is with the user with low post counts reposting what other people said?

I may wait on the other hoses but I at least want a quote on how much I'll need. But for sure I want all the water hoses replaced. The oil lines and the power steering lines aren't leaking anything atm, but I am sure all of this will change once I get it running.

You guys suggest using ATF or regular oil to put down into each cylinder before cranking it over? I'm going to do a compression check this weekend and want to make sure I don't screw something up.

Chinese spam bots testing the waters and trying to assimilate. Some have already had spam links after their messages.

My PS return hose had a small leak up top where the hose attached to the metal fitting. I swiveled it around and the leak became huge. As mentioned it's NLA.
I had a new return hose in a box from another car. I cut the metal fitting off and attached the hose directly to the metal line with a hose clamp. Attached the other side to the reservoir same as from the factory. 5 minute fix that looks and works perfect. A return hose will probably cost $5 bucks at any auto parts store.

Keep in mind this won't work with the supply side due to the high pressures.

But you CAN remove the complete hose and take it down to your local hydraulic hose fixing place and have it rebuilt there for much less than buying a new hose.
Also, if they ask you if you want a reducer back on your new hose, know this: the reducer is only there to reduce the power steering groan and does not affect steering one way or the other. In other words, if you want the reducer, add it, and if not, don't.

This is great info here. So if I leave the reducer out the pump wont whine as much correct? Just wanting to make sure I understand what you said. How much louder would it be?

I think you got it backwards. With Reducer= Less Groan Without Reducer = More Groan

^^ No Porno intent ;)

Ahhh I typed it backwards. That's what I meant. Anyways is it really noticeable?

I did it both ways and it wasn't noticeable to me. But then, I am old and deaf, blind in one eye and can't see out of the other. :)

One more thing: the PS reservoirs do have a life span. There is a built-in non-replaceable filter in each one. New ones are about $30. I go for new on those.

Good deal then I may take them to a local shop and have them rebuild the hoses. Got a quote today on the hoses. And lets just say ouch! They weren't too bad except for the pump to rack hose. Which I think is the one you were talking about getting rebuilt locally? Or was that the NLA one. The pump to rack hose is $112 alone. :eek:

Lets just say that I wont be replacing those hoses to start with. They will get done but they will have to wait. It's pretty dirty under the car so what's a little more oil?