Engine Oil Light Flashing after Oil Change

[Gryphon]

Changed my oil and filter yesterday and now the engine oil lamp flashes when tach reaches anywhere above 3000 RPM. Any ideas?

[Mrmerlin]

check the wire connections at the sender next to the oil filter,
and at the 14 pin connector

[Gryphon]

Removed sender wires, cleaned terminals, replaced, checked 14 pin connector at jump post, cleaned terminals there too. Still flashing at 3k and up. In related news I replaced alternator yesterday as well. Replacement A325X Alternator is not charging battery either. Red light is brightly lit on voltage gauge even after a full battery charge overnight. Car running shows 11.73V, when turned off shows 13.79V. When the alternator I replaced was working voltage gauge would def move above 12V when tach went passed 2k. When it stopped charging I ordered replacement alternator and installed yesterday. Bummed and perplexed. Could these be related issues. I am having shark driving withdrawal symptoms...Help

[aluminum]

Make sure you got the right Oil Filter that could be a issue . Make sure you have Oil pressure to protect the motor however sure sounds like a wiring problem lose wire also .
Return the Alternator and have them test the replacement alternator . You might have the alternator tested somewhere else before returning . Lots of place offer free testing like auto zone / O'Reilleys
what weight Oil did you use for the Car ? perhaps the Oil is wrong and you had a Problem you did not know of ? Just trying to help with Ideas to help trouble shoot

[Mrmerlin]

remove the blue wire from the back of the alternator( the small wire),

check for continuity from this wire to the 14 pin connector ,
NOTE if you let the alternator hang on its harness then there is a very good chance you sheared this wire about 4 inches up the sheathing at the alternator.

so your new alternator is not charging based on the info you provided.
A properly charging alternator will be doing from 13.5 to 14.0
if its under 13.5 then you have a bad diode.

NOTE testing state is 1500 RPM, check the voltage at the hot post,
make sure the battery terminals are clean as well as the grounds

[Gryphon]

Continuity from Blue wire at alternator to 14 pin connector is good. I also checked Z6 - Z8 on CE panel. I get no voltage there. It my understanding that I should see 1.4 - 2.0V on the blue wire exciter circuit in order for alternator to kick in and start charging? This would lead me to believe that the resistor in the pod is bad or possibly the bulb wattage is to high 4W instead of 2W. I am leaning towards the resistor as the system worked a month ago and the bulb has not been changed. Can anyone think of anything I may have missed before I remove the POD and change the resistor? OIL LIGHT: Now back to the original problem. Since changing the oil ( I used Castrol GTX 20W50 ) I used the correct filter (from Roger @ 928sRus) replaced the crush ring on the drain plug, the engine oil light flashes at 3k or higher on the tach. The oil pressure gauge shows 5 bar at startup, then drops down to 2.5 to 3 bar at idle after warm up. slightest throttle sends pressure back up to 5 bar and beyond. Help

[Mrmerlin]

from the info provided the oil pressure gauge readings appear normal

[Gryphon]

Yes oil pressure seems normal even a little higher than before, the motor sounds fantastic, runs smooth, no noise whatsoever, however the engine oil light still blinks at 3k or above on tach. Thinking maybe one side of the oil pressure sender is bad. It just seemed an odd coincidence that it started when I changed the oil. Ordered a new oil pressure sensor and resistor for dash pod today. Hopefully by the weekend I will be back on the road....Anyone think of anything else I may be missing?

[Pete R]

Is it full enough? I think the oil light triggers off a level sensor too. Maybe over 3k it's drawing enough oil in to barely reach the low level limit.

[Gryphon]

Is eight quarts enough? it shows between the hash marks on the dipstick.

[Pete R]

I don't know, fill it to the top hash and try it again