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Petie3rd
 
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you might just have to put a new oil pan gasket on then button it back up
taking pictures will be the best thing but from the picture evidence I think all is good.

NOTE the marks you do see are factory they are not from the crank hitting the block ,
you can prove this turning the crank and measuring the parts that have rub marks , you will see there is plenty of room
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^^^ Stan ^^^
1988 S4 Auto , Color is Elfenbein Perlglanz, Pearl Gray
1985 Porsche 928 Euro 5 speed , Black on Black 16V
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:10 PM
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For what it's worth, here's a picture of the engine in my '84 S, 5-speed. Around 75k miles on the engine, with more "scraping" than the OPs car...
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Old 05-04-2012, 04:01 PM
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Kool
 
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I would still get that clamp thingie
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1978 5sp (#30) project-Wreckscue
Old 05-04-2012, 07:44 PM
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Petie3rd
 
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just to be clear here when the engine is made the factory will use a grinder on some of the webs when they are line boring the engine thus some of the webs will have grinding marks on them from the factory
Every engine block has similar grinding marks the critical grinding marks will be on the #3 web if you can see the thrust bearing side face then you have not gotten total thrust failure.

That said some engines have had the #3 web crack thus destroying the block
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^^^ Stan ^^^
1988 S4 Auto , Color is Elfenbein Perlglanz, Pearl Gray
1985 Porsche 928 Euro 5 speed , Black on Black 16V
2011 BMW K1300S Magma red
Old 05-05-2012, 04:26 AM
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I do plan on buying the clamp to help prevent TBF. I am going to put it back together and cross my fingers. I will monitor it regularly to see if it starts to deteriorate. Thanks for all the advice. The help is great.
Old 05-06-2012, 06:00 AM
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It is difficult to ascertain from the original photo if that is factory finish on the #3 bearing on the saddle, or the beginning of the crank counterweight contacting the saddle, or more succinctly put, the start of TBF. To me the photo suggests it is the latter, not the factory finish.

On the 6 engines I have pulled the oil pan off of, none of them had a finish that looks like the photo in the original post. And I understand and agree the photos can be misleading under the best of circumstances. I would suggest comparing the surface of the saddle (finish) to that which can be seen on other machined block and saddle surfaces for counter weight clearances. If they all look similar, then button it up and go...if the surface is decidedly different, more rough on the saddle at #3, I still say TBF and a solution is needed.

The good news is the .006" end play.....suggests it may be fine....but then there is the other question, why was the engine available as a loose engine in the first place? May be an answer to that would end this, but it may not be available...
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Old 05-06-2012, 07:56 AM
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To you point in the second paragraph, each surface looks similar. Even the surface where the crank does not reach it, like in picture one. Reading yours and Mrmerlin I feel confident enough to leave it alone.

I saw the car where the engine came out of. The car was at a salvage yard.

My next move is to change the timing belt, water pump. and check out the tensioner.

Then it is ready to put back in the car. Hopefully in two weeks. Gong to mother-in-law next week for mothers day. Wish me luck!!!! (that the car starts) LOL
Old 05-06-2012, 05:14 PM
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was this a flood damaged car?...i have looked on the website you got the car from (through autotrader)..they sell a lot of water damaged cars there...lots of corvettes
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Old 05-10-2012, 01:22 PM
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That looks factory to me. I have seen 3 blocks with TBF (thrust Bearing Failure) and the grind marks on those are 360 degrees around. Your 180 degree grinding looks like the bearing cap was ground to provide clearance , likely at the factory.

In any case I would re-measure (did you do a pry bar on the crank to try to shift it back and forth slightly (Gently) to get a good 'real' measurement ? )

There needs to be some 'float' in there but it cant be too tight or too loose.
Old 05-11-2012, 06:56 AM
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This is from a 1980. The center cap has a small machined area.
Old 05-15-2012, 05:26 PM
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The other caps have no marks.
If you intend to use it; tear it apart and check it.
It's like any other car engine, just a lot more expensive.
Old 05-15-2012, 05:30 PM
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I did use a wooden handle to move the end-play back and forth. I did it several times to get a consistent reading.

Thanks for your pictures 1980-928. Yours is so clean it does not even look like the same motor.
Old 05-15-2012, 05:54 PM
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wow, sorry for that bad info. I've had about 10 928 motors apart and never seen factory grinding like that. Hopefully Merlins right. The easy solution for this is to just slide the crank toward the scrapes and see if there is clearance.
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:22 AM
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I did that and put a feeler Gage between the crank and the block I could not feel any rubbing. The grindings are strange in that they do not go all the way around. Only on the upper half. Only on the girdle. I checked the girdle number and it matches the block. Also, on the first picture it shows some grinding but in that section the crank does not go up that far.
Old 05-16-2012, 10:15 AM
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