Most critical grounds are on the passenger cam cover.
One is near front. Other is buried and hidden beneath the air pump valve mounted to the cam cover.
You must remove that and some of the air pump hose to reach it properly.
These are where the engine electronics ground.

Small positive wires on bat cable must be clean and well mounted.

Am assuming you pulled the CE panel, polished all fuse holders and replaced them with good german fuses, not BUS as they are too long for the holders.

Replace the pump with bosch and stop whining about the $. Few aftermarket parts work on these cars.

When jumping relays, the injector relay has to be jumped with a 3 wire arrangement. 30 to 87 to 87. Wiring diagram doesn't show this well, just do it.


Temp II sensor, the one that runs axially front to back, mounted in front of motor, is another weak point. Replace and don't look back.

Don't drive without replacing fuel lines. The lines dry rot and the cars explode into flames. Embarassing for a mechanic.

I usually replace the fuel pump relay, injector relay and AFM relay with new on all rescues. Life is too short to dick with them and the corrosion within, esp. if there are any signs of water ingress or mouse pee around the panel.

+1 on everything he says above.

Fuel line diagrams
 

Yes, replacing fuel lines looks like a crucial to do-found some air hoses that were broken and brittle. Also found 3 vacuum hoses with split ends- snipped and put back on for now.Any chance there is a schematic out there showing each line--where they come from and to where. Have the correct fuel line available at NAPA nearby with proper hose clamps.

I'd like to pull the intakes but need specific step by step advice/instructions. Want to get down deep into cavities and clear leaves and crap. Then this would be the time to R&R fuel lines I'd think. Are you talking about lines from tank to engine too?

Will surely have fire ext. in hand when I fire this 1982 up next week.

First time around with a 928 is challenging learning all the do's and don'ts.

Placed the double brown wire with open hole on end of spade through screw on wire hold down strap under rear wiper motor--thanks for placement info.

So there are 2 ground groups on head--found one right in the middle. Guess I'll be using your advice and seek out the 2nd.

Intake refresh is intuitive. Quarter inch drive extensions, 13 mm sockets.

cleaning intakes
 

I have seen the bright finish on several 928's intakes.
Are you guys using metal polish and a buffer?
Are you spraying them with anything to help retain shine?

Obviously must replace boots--clamps should be ok??

No manual to work with---just using my limited "Smarts"

Time to dig in and order more parts--turn the key soon.

Keep throwing in ideas/advice.

Manuals are oddly arranged, kind of spotty for info, but useful.
They are available free on a uk website, cannell, including wiring diags for all years.
But the real deal is $70 for the CDs that include far, far more useful information in the form of factory technician and dealer documents. This can be found with a little searching...not the CDs advertised on net though.

I lightly polished a couple sets with a soft wire wheel. Polishing smooth is a waste of time in my opinion, as is powder coating for these year cars.

You will need new injector seals, new intake gaskets, new boots.

On fuel line, only use high pressure FI hose, R30 9 , with real FI hose clamps. Still, this job has to be done carefully and due to varied diams of fittings the hose is sometimes stretched pretty extensively on the ID. Be careful, but get all lines downstream of pump. Upstream of pump, leaving gas tank, the feed line is generally hard and needs replacement along with the intank strainer.

Advice can pour out of all of us, some with preferences, some contrary to each other.
Use this site, MP Danos thread, and rennlist for all kinds of input. Its mostly all been covered 10 times before, so I balance current advice with lots of background reading.

The boot clamps should be okay. Heck, the boots may even be okay. They seem to last a lot longer than other rubber bits on the engine. Probably because they are somewhat removed from the engine heat. That said, it's a good idea to change them WYAIT

The shiny comes from grinding off the castin marks and using a buffer to smooth and polish the intake. How good it looks depends on how long or how much you want to spend. It is necessary to coat the finished project with something to prevent the rapid oxidation that WILL occur if the polished piece is not coated.

You DO realize that at some point you WILL need to get the manual or at least the Jim Morehouse CD of the manual. You WILL get to a point that your basic and even advanced knowledge of basic automobile mechanics will not be able to sustain this car. It happened to me and has probably happened to most everybody that works on their own 928s.

Link to CD manual
 

Stepson and Landsteer---thanks for additional info--really helps.

Cleaned fuel tank today--used hot water with TSP--looks nice--drying now with a fan over the sending unit hole. The screen was varnished over but that was cleaned with carb cleaner--starting to feel confident about a start up next week. New filter and pump should be here Tues.

????? Is there a way to disconnect fuel lines at engine (would think it would be at injector rail) to blow compressed air through lines(not through injectors) to combat sending crap through lines that have sat for 3+ years. I'm crossing fingers that the injectors will respond to cleaner ran through them. I'm looking for directions to which lines need to be replaced to prevent a "BOOM".

I really don't want to pull injectors or intake quite yet--in time.

Should I pull all plugs and hand crank each rotation and while piston is down-shoot Mystery oil into cylinder or since she has been cranked when PO was showing me that the engine is free with coil unplugged does it really matter now? Oil is fresh looking and at the proper level.

Found that nasty ground bolt under pump above the "O". My learning cure says to remove pump and metal piping so that you can really shine up every part that touches metal for a ground. As advised--grounds under dash done--primer covered 95% of the mounting surface--surprised--NOT.

Have 1 ground spot to do--behind the passenger side rear.

I want to order the CD you 2 are referencing--where do I order it. Yes, I will need more technical help as I progress into this project--1982 928 in Chiffon White with Blue Leather.

Have a bottle of Techron to use in tank when I put 2 gallons of 93 octane in it next week. Wonder if anyone has ever used a gravity method to introduce cleaner to the injectors prior to a start up?????

Heading to Quebec the 4th for some walleye and pike fishing--so my goals is to hear it rumble prior to leaving.

My name is David and I live in Massillon, Ohio--go TIGERS. Will get to getting my page updated when I find the time--yah.

Found some archived posts on which fuels lines to replace so that is covered.

yea pictures please do . archived posts and especially ones with pic tutorials , the sticky/first thread Most common fixings mpdano a true blessing , a curse if not used.

of course top right search forum entering keyword to ones subj at hand and
with a great deal of tolerance for all, as no one works/understands at the same pace, other peeps threads can be a result,point of view, how toos, to getting through own issues/fixes.

Here is a link for the Jim Morehouse WSM CDs:Specialty Items - Items - 928's R Us Porsche Parts Store