80 Euro?

[19psi]

1980 Porsche 928

Does the 80 Euro have the 300+ HP engine? I'm tempted to check this one out but I'm afraid of what the interior will look like.

I'm thinking it was nice until something went wrong and it got parked years ago. That particular plate design started in 2009 so at least it hasn't been decades.

[neil30076]

It is a Euro, get the engine code ( M28/xx number) and you be the judge, here is the engine/hp spec sheet:

[ROG100]

An 80 Euro could be a 4.5L or the 300hp 4.7L.
Double check your information

[Xlot]

Originally Posted by 19psi

Does the 80 Euro have the 300+ HP engine? I'm tempted to check this one out but I'm afraid of what the interior will look like.

Depends on which model it is. 4.5 k-jet was available through 1982 model year, so "Euro" cars from 80-82 could be either 4.5 or 4.7. The spoilers aren't a reliable way to tell, as many 4.5 owners had the spoilers added to look like the faster more expensive model.

You can tell by the last part of the VIN.. 80xxxxx is a 4.5, 82xxxxx is a 4.7. However that assumes the engine is original, so I'd still expect to confirm the number on the block.

[Danglerb]

Euro S vs not S.

Picture of the engine bay, vin, motor ID good first point to check. Almost always if its a Euro S the seller will know and tout that fact, more often than not even the non S is claimed as an S, least often the seller doesn't know its an S and it is.

If the seller doesn't know its an S, making a gift of that information may not be the best way to get a good deal. I would not ask any questions that would directly lead the seller to find out its a much more valuable S. Picture of the engine, and vin are safe questions, motor ID is not.

Motor ID will tell you what the short block shipped as, but the bottom of the engine is the least valuable part of a Euro S. Before money changes hands you want as strong of evidence as possible that heads, cams, and intake and injection system are all for the Euro S model. It happens a lot that during some repair, timing belt, heads, whatever, that cheaper US parts get swapped for the Euro S parts. Even very reputable shops may offer or agree to a customer request to accept the valuable S parts to reduce the cost of a repair.

My two cents on 80-82 Euro S 928's; Not my first choice. Kjet works ok, but when it goes bad, fuel contamination, or just sitting, everything generally needs cleaning and rebuilding and the mechanical pressure/electrical brains are fussy. Rebuilding yourself is an option as better and better support guides show up, but its not trivial. No serious tuning ability other than messing with fuel pressures.

[19psi]

If I get some time this weekend I may go check it out as it's less than 20 miles from me.

From where it's sitting, the new clutch and a bag for a window, it probably has an interesting story behind it. Having a title is a plus. I still have the emissions thing to contend with but someone told me our antique plates do away with that. BMV website doesn't mention it but they probably wouldn't want to advertise it either...will need to give them a call.

[DougM]

Its a parts car. When a car looks bad in pictures, it looks worse in person. If you can get it for $1000, then it might be worth trying to get it to run. Would still need tires I assume as well as all fluids and filters. To really make it right....you might as well just spend more up front and save yourself the time.

[5l32v4c]

Rescue the poor old girl.

Might be something simple that parked it. Mine was grounded for 15 years since 1997 as the owner fell ill and it had a blown head gasket. Porsche specialist prices for such a job tend to be quite high, but the job is perfectly DIY'able given time and patience (and a place to work).

Pick it up cheap and have a play. Worst case scenario, you go into the 928 parts business and double your money.

Good luck!

[Landseer]

Nice.
Looks very straight.
Less than $1000 would make sense.
Only downside would be vermin living inside.
Tempting.

Go for it!!!!

[Fixer]

Comparing my U.S. 1983 M28/19 vs Euro M28/11 (4.7L)
= torque
66 less Hp
but only .2 seconds slower to 62mph
same 1/4 mile time
9 mph slower top speed
Euro has higher compression
But euro car is listed as much lighter, that alone would account for the .2 seconds to 62mph


I'd like to drive a 80-83 euro M28/11 powered 928 to feel for myself the difference.
For having -66hp for US M28/19, the performance data btwn the two is very close.
How is the Torque the same and not a few lb/ft less with that much
less breath in the M28/19?
Has anyone in the past confirmed or know of a dyno test to confirm these HP/Torque figures btwn the two versions of the 4.7L?
Does it seems that the performance data is fuzzy to you guys?

I have read that other manufacturers and Porsche have given performance figures to US departments which were pessimistic to comply with regulations.