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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Montana
Posts: 199
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What the...
****. Im about to lose my mind trying to get the bell housing bolts out of an 87 automatic. I've tried breaker bars, ive hit it with WD40, and done extended wrenches, i've hit breakerbars and wrenches with hammers. I rounded it off now, so i've got a special socket to dig into the bolt and grip it, STILL cant get it out. Guys, i've been trying to get one bolt out for like 3 days, what in the actual **** does one need to do to get the upper bell housing bolts out.
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Petie3rd
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OK extreme measures,
first you need to get a few tools to assist you, you need a small drill with a 1/8 in. bit , find a long drill bit thats about 10 inches long, this will make drilling easier as the drill you use will probably be big , otherwise a shorter bit will work. Next get a can of PB blaster, this is really what you need for bolt removal. WD40 is a water dispersant not a corrosion bond breaker. What your going to do is drill into the bell housing adjacent to where the bolts shank is passing through. dont drill into the bolt, drill only enough to make a hole into the section that the bolt is passing through. Once this is done then get the PB blaster and fit the red straw to the spray cap, fill the hole with it, let it soak for a few hours, Take a hammer and a long extension and tap on the head of the bolt , not too hard your looking to set up some vibrations so the PB will break the bonds of the bolt. Then get your tool that is a 6 point socket that you have ground the sides of , so you can fit a big pair of vice grips, NOTE the grinding of the socket will assist the grips to get a bite on the socket, this is to replace the 6 sided wrenches . Then remove the bolt it should come out. if you cant fit a 6 point socket then you should have a 6 sided box wrench that you have doubled up. NOTE dont use the 12 point wrench as it doesnt provide enough surface contact and is likely rounding off the bolt head. Sears should have this otherwise you need a snap on tools truck for a wrench
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^^^ Stan ^^^ 2019 BMW K1250 GS 2016 HD RK 1988 S4 Auto , Elfenbein Perlglanz, Pearl Gray 1982 5sp Met black and tan sport seats Last edited by Mrmerlin; 05-25-2013 at 02:52 PM.. |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Montana
Posts: 199
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got it, god damn...
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Network Native
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 10,349
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EZred double box end flex head ratcheting extended socket spline wrench is about the ideal tool for those bolts, prior to too much rounding.
Did you have to drill it? |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Montana
Posts: 199
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No, i got an extra shallow extractor sockets to dig into the bolt and get a grip. then i had an extended forged craftsman wrench to turn it... the Pittsburgh wrenches i was using before were just flexing.
I got the transaxle and torque tube out though, i'll be replacing torque tube bearings in the near future here, i just have to figure out how many i need and where a good place to get them is. I saw Garage 9 has some but if anyone knows anything else im all ears. I cant afford the superbearings so im gonna go ahead and stick to the original, i figured i'd just knock it out while im doing work down there anyways. Also, i've had problems with heat getting into my center console, i think its through the shifter (automatic trans) that goes down, but im not too sure. But the heat gets the window buttons pretty warm and everything else as well. I'm not sure if its that i need a better heat shield or there is a hole. Has anyone heard of this problem? I'm currently cleaning the rear suspension with simple green and a pressure washer to get all the dirt and stuck on transmission fluid from it leaking over time. I'm also replacing all my transmission feed and return soft lines to the cooler, which im gonna flush eventually to make sure its all cleaned out for the rebuilt tranaxle i got from 928 intl |
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Kool
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how much more are the super bearings? I have been thinking about those myself.....way on down the road.....the difference may be worth saving up the extra...
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Ron 1978 5sp (#30) project-Wreckscue, 1979 5sp Euro Project 1982 5sp resto project, 1985 Auto S3 1984 Parts car (the fire car) 1987 s4 (parts, or maybe project) (Yes, I now have 4 project Sharks) |
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Petie3rd
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if your getting heat in the cabin through the shifter,
then the motor mounts and trans mounts may have collapsed, this will drop the TT down and thus create an airway for hot air to come in. Otherwise rodents may have eaten the foam and a new foam insulator should be installed
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^^^ Stan ^^^ 2019 BMW K1250 GS 2016 HD RK 1988 S4 Auto , Elfenbein Perlglanz, Pearl Gray 1982 5sp Met black and tan sport seats |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Montana
Posts: 199
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Motor mounts were replaced by me about a month ago, tranaxle mounts look good, but yes, the culprit looks to be rodents eating away at the foam, anyone have a fix for this?
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Network Native
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 10,349
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Montana
Posts: 199
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damn... i already put it all back in, new transaxle and all. just need to put the heat shields and exhaust back on, and one last hose to replace, then im gonna roll it out and see whats gonna go wrong next, lol.
I'm not sure if that stuff is heat retardant, but my dad put some foam he found in its place to fill the gap. I noticed there was some sort of normal looking foam in the same area too, maybe im wrong, maybe my car will catch on fire... i sure hope not |
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Network Native
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 10,349
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When the AFR is bad, running rich, the cats will glow cherry red, and smoke will come up from the shifter opening. No idea if the insulation is especially resistant, but all I had was smoke, no flames.
![]() Typical foam like used to insulate hot water pipes is only good to about 190 F. Could make a mess REAL hard to clean up if it melts. |
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