Timing Belt Tension 1986.5

[Crumpler]

Hey Guys, first timing belt DIY.

Belt and water pump done by reliable shop 4 years prior.
PO had belt re-tensioned after that install.
I've put about 8K on the car since.
I have gotten three belt tension warnings: one at high RPM shift several months ago and two recently at idle (one warm and one cold).

I was going to step up and change the belt anyway, etc. I've got parts on the way but I wanted to check tension while I'm waiting. First question: do the belts continue to loosen as you put more miles on them? Can you just re-tension if belt in good condition?

Most walk-throughs are either for 16V or S4, but I've got access to check my tension.


I started to crank to TDC (clockwise) and initially it moved easily, then significant resistance. That's when I put the wrench down. I was only using 1/2 inch socket with small breaker bar.
Second question: is this normal, can I fubar if I just go for it with 3/4 and cheater, and would it turn easier without spark plugs and other belts on?
Advice appreciated. Dave.

[Crumpler]

ok, went for it.
How do I say this with out looking like a fool...worked better in neutral.
Belt was loose. Appeared in good shape otherwise.




After tension adjustment.

[harborman]

I did my TB 2 years ago and now have 20K on it. I never had any warning light come on at any time.

[harborman]

Also, if it sat and not driven for a long time, the belt may have stretched in places. Also, your tensioner may not be working correctly. Did the shop check it out at that time? I think you need to do the new belt and associated parts.

[Crumpler]

I took her out today and no issues.
I don't know, bottom line the belt was loose. Maybe shop didn't re-tension well enough the first time after previous install?
I have TB and WP being shipped, I'm going to change them out anyway.
I know how this will go over,but I decided to rebuild the stock tensioner rather then add the Porken system. I'm just not there yet, but then again I don't use a smart phone either.

[Mrmerlin]

for the tensioner rebuild you need some things,
a new gasket ,
a new rubber boot ,
and new piston O ring,
and new rubber boot clamp.

I suggest to use Hondabond 4 on the gasket,
clock the inner clamp so the open side faces up,this will reduce the chance of leaks
then the outer clamp is set while looking at the boot will get set to 11 O clock,
fill the tensioner with STP oil after it sets up,
not motor oil or gear oil,
Use a visene bottle with the tip driller a bit bigger to fill the tensioner,
fill from the hole furthest from the crank,
and watch for the oil frome the hole closest to the crank

also use the WSM to verify that you have the washer stacks correctly placed,
and make sure the washer thats on the piston/ rod/ spring is also correct

[Yellowb1rd]

Oil-filled OEM units.. yuk!

[Crumpler]

Originally Posted by Yellowb1rd

Oil-filled OEM units.. yuk!

My only defense is that I talked to Carl Fausett first, and he has never had a stock tensioner fail, even with some of his engines pushing 900 HP. Since this is all learning for me, I also wanted to get in there and take it apart and put it back together.

[Crumpler]

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

for the tensioner rebuild you need some things,
a new gasket ,
a new rubber boot ,
and new piston O ring,
and new rubber boot clamp.

I suggest to use Hondabond 4 on the gasket,
clock the inner clamp so the open side faces up,this will reduce the chance of leaks
then the outer clamp is set while looking at the boot will get set to 11 O clock,
fill the tensioner with STP oil after it sets up,
not motor oil or gear oil,
Use a visene bottle with the tip driller a bit bigger to fill the tensioner,
fill from the hole furthest from the crank,
and watch for the oil frome the hole closest to the crank

also use the WSM to verify that you have the washer stacks correctly placed,
and make sure the washer thats on the piston/ rod/ spring is also correct

Stan, thank you for the tips. I will be sure to do that.
Also, thank you and everyone else as well for previous help. As a new guy, it really has made a difference.

[Landseer]

I like a plastic syringe, like from the feed & seed store, to fill.

[Mrmerlin]

the syringe works good if the radiator is out of the way,
you dont wannna use the pump oilcan,
as you can unseat the inner boot clamp and blow the oil out of the tensioner

[Landseer]

On mid year cars there isn't an interference problem with radiator.
You're right, I don't use the syringe to pressurize it.