Does the damper being upside down affect engine preformance? Is the damper the same as the harmonic balancer. Isn't that torqued to 300 foot pounds? A ***** to get off?

damper and HB are one in the same, torque is 218 FT/LB.

The only issue you will see is that you have no idea how to time the engine as the marks will never be close to the pointer.

Otherwise if the damper was installed after the timing marks were lined up then its reasonable to assume that the timing of the belt is correct.

The only way for you to do this is to line up one of the cams the other cam should also line up then remove the damper and flip it over then the TDC should be lined up correctly

So I can I just take off the Jesus bolt and pull the harmonic balancer off or is there more to it?

remove the crank bolt its a 27MM,
and then remove the V pulley and the AC pulley,
then the damper will slide off,
flip it over,
then install the AC and V belt pulleys,
and the the crank bolt.

While the damper is off make sure to check that both of the thrust washers ( belt guide plates) are on the crank the correct way.

How do you normally recommend locking up the engine to get the bolt off?

With a flywheel lock, about a $60 piece from roger. It gives you control over the situation, lot of force involved, and you want to be able to torque it back.

There are other ways, with two people you might be able to hold the flywheel with big screwdrivers.
Pretty much need 3/4 inch drive for the bolt, 1/2 inch stuff usually shears. BTW, 1 1/16 is same as 27mm, I've used both sizes, no difference.

Some have put the socket on a heavy 3/4 handle and propped it under the car, using the starter motor to turn the engine and loosen the bolt. Seems risky but some have done it. Doesn't answer the question of how to torque it back under control though.

Get the. Lock...best to do it right....and safe...

Would oriellys or autozone rent this lock tool?

Okay, so explain this too me, I pull harmonic balancer off, and immediately flip it which direction?

Dude, take pics of the Harmonic Balancer. The HB will "sometimes" come off easy. My Euro wasn't the case, you had to use a large screwdriver to pry each side slowly to get it to come loose. My S came off fairly easy. You already know the large bolt that needs to come off, you can plainly see it can only fit two ways. Merlin is trying to get you to fit it the other way. I say, take a pic to verify this even needs to get done.

Dano see picture in post 39 thats his damper, its clearly facing the wrong way.

Mixy Get the lock tool from Roger Azone will not have this tool its special to the 928.


pull the damper off and turn it left side to right then put it back on,
this while looking at it from the top ..

Simply put you want to be able to read the numbers on the damper while your facing it,

the numbers will look like the picture I posted its simple Bro

OK even more simple remove the V belt and AC pulley,
then with a markS A Lot marker put a circle on the front of the damper,
pull the damper off,
then flip it over so the circle will now be facing the engine instead of the front of the car.


NOTE the timing marks will line up on the damper
after you have gotten the cams at the hash marks first.

The crank will be at TDC if the woodruff keyway is at the 4 O clock position while your facing the engine

I did take pictures and uploaded them.

Got it man, didn't see this one. Yeah, Your Harmonic Balancer is on backwards. Take it off and put it on the other way.

Can you guys give me the URL for the Rogers auto parts, I couldn't tell if I found the right one.

Home - 928s R Us Porsche Parts Store

I got it, thanks guys.

For best results, in general, make your inquiry by phone.

Thanks for the tip.

Does anyone have a picture of this tool? There doesn't seem to be one on the website.

928 International has them for $49. Call or order online.

Is there still a place for that on an automatic? It says it goes where the clutch slave cylinder goes?

Something About Washers?
 

Someone mentioned something earlier about two guide washers or something like that? Im only seeing one washer. Respond quickly http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378583930.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378583935.jpg

Here, you need to have this link to verify your parts.

http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/en/E_928_82_KATALOG.pdf

As you can also see from my screen shot of the crank, there is a washer in front and behind the gear.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378585329.jpg

these guide washers have curved edges so to keep the belt centered on the crank drive gear,
make sure the flanged areas face away from the belt or the edge will chew up the new belt.

there are 2 flanges on in front and one behind the drive gear As Dano has pointed out as well as rpovided a great picture, Thanks Dano

what should the tensioner and roller look like if installed properly? TIMING WAS OFF AN INCH!

please explain the timing was of an inch take a picture to describe what your viewing.


the tensioner and roller should look like new after you clean and rebuild the tensioner and replace the tensioner roller

With the cams at TDC, the harmonic/crankshaft was behind an inch. I mean how should it be facing? Does anyone have a picture of it on the car? I think mine may be on incorrectly.

Belt is loose now but thats how it was on. Is that correct? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378594677.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378594699.jpg

see post 38 for proper damper position

Wow, I would be disassembling all that you see rusted. The roller is rusted and makes contact on your TB. Use a wire wheel to clean all that up off the vehicle.

both of the rollers pictured should be replaced ,
as well as a new boot put on the tensioner and a new clamp,
new pivot bushings and a new pivot bolt.
You will also need a kempf tool to set the belt tension,
this is done cold with the engine at TDC,
your tension gets set with the pointer at the low side of the window

That looks like the old style belt teeth. If you replace belt and/or gears, be sure to check with Roger.
Need better pictures of the whole belt path, please, and several of each gear.

With the engine at TDC should the distributor rotor face towards the notch in the distributor housing or plug number 1?

the hash mark is #1 on the distributor .

#1 spark plug is the front right hand side of the engine or passenger side for USA cars.

4..8
3..7
2..6
1..5
front

If I'm lookin at the correct hash mark its on the opposite side from the number 1 on my distributor cap

OK first remove the damper and turn it over , install it onto the crank snout.

then line it up so the numbers look like the picture in post 38,

once this is done then make sure the cams are also lined up,
it may involve turning the crank another revolution.

Once the cams and crank are lined up,
remove the distributor cap and see where the tip of the rotor is pointing,
it should be close to the hash mark on the distributor housing,,
then trace the # 1 spark plug wire from plug to cap,
this should line up to the hash mark and the the cap and be #1 wire.

I think it's post 38....

Thanks Ron fixed it!

Here is another link to follow for belt/ waterpump RnR

http://static.ibsrv.net/autocomm/Con...ber%202011.pdf

I finished it

I was debating with my father. I think I have the distributor cap on backwards, because the #1 spark plug spot is on the opposite side from the hash. I suggested we turn the rotor to face the hash mark at TDC and turn the distributor cap so the number #1 plug is by the hash. He put it on so that the rotor was facing plug number 1 on the cap but was not at the hash mark, and it's slid all the way over at the adjustment. It's running at like 200 RPMs and it doesn't put you back in your seat like a Porsche should.