Is there still a place for that on an automatic? It says it goes where the clutch slave cylinder goes?

Something About Washers?
 

Someone mentioned something earlier about two guide washers or something like that? Im only seeing one washer. Respond quickly http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378583930.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378583935.jpg

Here, you need to have this link to verify your parts.

http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/originalparts/en/E_928_82_KATALOG.pdf

As you can also see from my screen shot of the crank, there is a washer in front and behind the gear.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378585329.jpg

these guide washers have curved edges so to keep the belt centered on the crank drive gear,
make sure the flanged areas face away from the belt or the edge will chew up the new belt.

there are 2 flanges on in front and one behind the drive gear As Dano has pointed out as well as rpovided a great picture, Thanks Dano

what should the tensioner and roller look like if installed properly? TIMING WAS OFF AN INCH!

please explain the timing was of an inch take a picture to describe what your viewing.


the tensioner and roller should look like new after you clean and rebuild the tensioner and replace the tensioner roller

With the cams at TDC, the harmonic/crankshaft was behind an inch. I mean how should it be facing? Does anyone have a picture of it on the car? I think mine may be on incorrectly.

Belt is loose now but thats how it was on. Is that correct? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378594677.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1378594699.jpg

see post 38 for proper damper position

Wow, I would be disassembling all that you see rusted. The roller is rusted and makes contact on your TB. Use a wire wheel to clean all that up off the vehicle.

both of the rollers pictured should be replaced ,
as well as a new boot put on the tensioner and a new clamp,
new pivot bushings and a new pivot bolt.
You will also need a kempf tool to set the belt tension,
this is done cold with the engine at TDC,
your tension gets set with the pointer at the low side of the window

That looks like the old style belt teeth. If you replace belt and/or gears, be sure to check with Roger.
Need better pictures of the whole belt path, please, and several of each gear.

With the engine at TDC should the distributor rotor face towards the notch in the distributor housing or plug number 1?

the hash mark is #1 on the distributor .

#1 spark plug is the front right hand side of the engine or passenger side for USA cars.

4..8
3..7
2..6
1..5
front

If I'm lookin at the correct hash mark its on the opposite side from the number 1 on my distributor cap

OK first remove the damper and turn it over , install it onto the crank snout.

then line it up so the numbers look like the picture in post 38,

once this is done then make sure the cams are also lined up,
it may involve turning the crank another revolution.

Once the cams and crank are lined up,
remove the distributor cap and see where the tip of the rotor is pointing,
it should be close to the hash mark on the distributor housing,,
then trace the # 1 spark plug wire from plug to cap,
this should line up to the hash mark and the the cap and be #1 wire.

I think it's post 38....

Thanks Ron fixed it!

Here is another link to follow for belt/ waterpump RnR

http://static.ibsrv.net/autocomm/Con...ber%202011.pdf

I finished it

I was debating with my father. I think I have the distributor cap on backwards, because the #1 spark plug spot is on the opposite side from the hash. I suggested we turn the rotor to face the hash mark at TDC and turn the distributor cap so the number #1 plug is by the hash. He put it on so that the rotor was facing plug number 1 on the cap but was not at the hash mark, and it's slid all the way over at the adjustment. It's running at like 200 RPMs and it doesn't put you back in your seat like a Porsche should.