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1981 928 fuel rail "little hoses"

I'm trying to replace one of the little hoses on the drivers side fuel rail just so I can drive the car to the mechanic to get the whoel fuel line replaced.

My question is, can you just replace one of the little 1" hoses without taking off the whole fuel rail on the drivers side? Or do I have to take them all off?

Can someone list the parts for a DIY fuel line replacement?

Thanks ahead of time.

edit: I'm looking here and it looks like the back passenger side wheel and suspension is removed in the tutorial. Is this really needed?
http://members.rennlist.com/sharkskin/Pages_SA_R34-FuelLines.htm


Last edited by 928j; 10-06-2013 at 05:39 PM..
Old 10-06-2013, 05:30 PM
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You can. It's possible. But why would you? It's one of the WYAIT things. It takes so liitle time to replace them all in the grand scheme of things.

You can make your own: use at least 30R9 hose for the replacement.
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Old 10-06-2013, 10:56 PM
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Because I just want to be able to drive the cara few miles to the mechanic.

So how do you replace just one of the little guys without taking off the ruel rail?
Old 10-07-2013, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 928j View Post
Because I just want to be able to drive the cara few miles to the mechanic.

So how do you replace just one of the little guys without taking off the ruel rail?
That sounds like an impossible task since the rail is on top of the injectors. Why are you avoiding removing the rail, it's easy and then you can replace all 4 of the hoses. Then do the other side.
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Old 10-07-2013, 05:35 AM
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NOTE you can not replace only one short injector hose while the rail is in place.

To effect repair the whole rail must be removed,
once this is done then its possible to replace failed hose,
since the rail is removed replace the other 3.

As Dano pointed out use the correct fuel injector hose,
FI hose has 12 strands in its casing VS regular line that has 6 strands.
Also use the better fuel line clamps instead of the ones with serrated bands,
size 14 should be the size you need

NOTE if there is a leak then either replace the lines,
or have the car towed to the shop so the mechanic can replace the lines.

Dont try to drive with a fuel leak ,
as an errant spark from an old ignition wire will have the engine going up in flames
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Last edited by Mrmerlin; 10-07-2013 at 09:03 AM..
Old 10-07-2013, 09:01 AM
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As Stan says + if one is bad they all probably all need to be replaced - that's 8 - not 4.
Does your mechanic have 928 experience - if not he is more likely to screw it up than fix it.

Not difficult if you go about it the right way - search here for help on the steps to fix, and you can get the kit of hoses and clamps from Roger.

Tell us where you are, we might be able to give you a good local guy, or may be someone locally can come over and help you.
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Last edited by neil30076; 10-07-2013 at 02:58 PM..
Old 10-07-2013, 11:46 AM
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It's a piece of cake to replace all the lines at the same time.

For me the hard part was removing the old lines from the rails.

Make sure you buy the correct style of clamps for the new lines. They are smooth on the inside walls.
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:42 PM
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There's no way to get the old hoses off the rail while its still in place. Mostly because you have to be extremely careful not to damage the fuel rail while you are taking it off. Any nick or scratch in the fuel rail barb (over which the hose goes) may cause leaks. Prior to changing mine, I looked it up and used fuel rails were $600.

I believe the workshop manual suggests you burn them off with a soldering iron. Try to do that on an installed fuel rail, and you will kill yourself.

It is extremely easy to get these fuel rails off. The toughest part for me was the rearmost collars were very tightly screwed to the hard line near the firewall. Get a nice long wrench for good torque and you should have no problems. Make sure you counterhold everything with another wrench. The procedure I used:

--Start the car
--Pull the fuel pump relay while the car is running, car will stall
--Try to crank it a couple more times (we are trying to get the most fuel out of the system)
--Loosen and then move the collars at either end of the fuel rails (have plenty of rags and a fire extinguisher! There is still fuel in the rails!)
--Remove the screws in the brass hold downs, which mount the injector to the intake manifold. (have a telescoping magnet. You will drop a screw or a washer).
--Pull the rails out carefully, making sure you don't damage or pull out the various vaccuum lines. On the passenger side, you probably have a large vacuum line clipped to the rail. Undo this clip first. Make sure that each of the injectors has a o-ring at the bottom. Sometimes these get stuck in the manifold and you should make sure they are all out.

I'm a newbie, so I'm sure someone will chime in with corrections or additions.

This is a great time to have your injectors cleaned, especially if you don't know if they've ever been done before. You might have to send them away. I know a good place in LI if you are in the NY/NJ area.

I would have your mechanic mount them. I found it more difficult to put them back in.

Oh, and the little hoses are 50 MM long.

One of the vendors here or on RL can assist with a fuel hose kit. I would call Roger at 928srus.

It doesn't look to me like he took the suspension off in the link you sent, just the wheel. That link is about working on a very early car, if you search for your specific year, you'll find info about your fuel lines I'm sure.
Old 10-08-2013, 07:07 AM
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ok so I'm back at it... how do I remove the fuel rail? It seems like I have to take off the intake, which brings up... how do I remove the plastic intake? Is the center-located plastic intake supposed to wiggle around? Or does that mean I have some additional problem?

Is there a write-up or video somewhere online?

Thanks in advance!
Old 06-24-2015, 07:23 PM
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1. How do I remove the right (rear-most) side of the driver's side fuel rail? Seems like it needs a minature/short wrench because there is not space to rotate a wrench around the nut? (not visible/under black plastic)

2. Is the silver intake manifold supposed to have some "play" to it, i.e. move a little bit or should it be 100% solid/fixed?

Old 08-23-2015, 01:41 AM
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I think its time to have the car towed to your mechanic,
dont mess with the fuel rails,
it will be easier for you to write a check.
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Old 08-23-2015, 04:36 PM
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Anyone know how to get that nut off. It's very hard to access. Of course I already have the plastic intake part off but there isn't enough radius space to turn a wrench there.
Old 08-23-2015, 06:26 PM
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How can I remove this fuel line flange nut? The intake manifold mount and firewall block access. Any tips? Do I have to buy a short-radius wrench? I'd prefer not to have to take off the manifold mount.

Old 08-23-2015, 07:24 PM
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There are no shortcuts in working on 928s.
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Old 08-24-2015, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stepson View Post
There are no shortcuts in working on 928s.
I 2nd that after just replacing all steering bearings and intermediate shaft and fire wall seal. That was a little crazy. There are no short cuts.
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Old 08-24-2015, 12:08 PM
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There's always a way.

This might work.

Sears.com

Old 08-24-2015, 08:26 PM
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Or this.

I guess I'm answering my own question. I just wondered if anyone on here knew how they did it.

Old 08-24-2015, 08:30 PM
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I would recommend breaking the nut loose with a line wrench first, then use whatever you want to turn it. My experience is that once the nut is broken loose, you can typically loosen it the rest of the way with your fingers.

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Indishrot 1984 Euro S AT (The Stepson) and Black Metallic 1984 Euro S 5 speed (The Schwartz)
Old 08-25-2015, 08:34 AM
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